Which torque wrench?
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Onoway Alberta
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,148
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From: South Dakota
I would probably buy a craftsman click. I have been using the same SnapOn click for 25 years. I had it calibrated one time a couple of years ago and there were no changes to calibration. I always turn it down to 7-9 lbs when done.I always keep it in the original plastic box too.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
I will keep this short. I have a Harbor Freight clicker wrench that I had some question on accuracy. A friend also had the same wrench and took it to a buddy with an SCCA race shop and had him check it. He used it against his brand name wrench and it was dead on the same at all ranges tested. I went to an aviation engine shop to have mine calibrated, but changed my mind when they wanted $90 for the calibration test. The wrench only cost me about $12. I bought a beam torque wrench from Advanced Auto and a coupling nut from Ace Hardware and mated the two to test/compare calibration. My eyes are not good and my reading the calibrations on the click wrench was in question. Now, to double check my setting, I always use the beam wrench before cinching down the set screw on the clicker. I have not found anyone who found the Harbor freight clicker wrench inaccurate. Remember, you need to store it with tension off the adjuster. For what it is worth, this is my opinion and experience.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
I would probably buy a craftsman click. I have been using the same SnapOn click for 25 years. I had it calibrated one time a couple of years ago and there were no changes to calibration. I always turn it down to 7-9 lbs when done.I always keep it in the original plastic box too.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Thumbs up for the Snap On. I have the 1/2in. and 3/8in. and they're great
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 38
From: Los Gatos CA
I have an old 1/2" drive Bonny (600 # ft), a 1/2" drive Mountz(150 # ft) and a 3/8" flex head Snap-On. I use the Bonny as a hammer sometimes; it's cool. There's also an old Craftsman beam type and a cheapo clicker, but I don't use 'em.
Last edited by Jeff_Keryk; Oct 31, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,747
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Thought for you.
Thought for you. I have checked the calibration of my torque wrenches, beam, clicker, Craftsman and Husky by chucking the square drive in your vise with the wrench in a horizontal position, tie a string to the center of the handle and add known weights until it clicks or reads on the beam indicator. All checked pretty good except a cheapy 3/8 drive auto parts store version. I believe all are better in the middle ranges than on the extremes. Measure from the center of the handle to the center of the square drive in inches or feet. Multiply that by whatever weight you have added and there is your inch lbs or ft lbs.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Thought for you. I have checked the calibration of my torque wrenches, beam, clicker, Craftsman and Husky by chucking the square drive in your vise with the wrench in a horizontal position, tie a string to the center of the handle and add known weights until it clicks or reads on the beam indicator. All checked pretty good except a cheapy 3/8 drive auto parts store version. I believe all are better in the middle ranges than on the extremes. Measure from the center of the handle to the center of the square drive in inches or feet. Multiply that by whatever weight you have added and there is your inch lbs or ft lbs.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
A 'beam'-type torque wrench made by a good manufacturer will always be correct [unless the wrench has been physically damaged or bent]. The amount of bend in the beam, at different torque levels, is consistent and plenty accurate. Click-type wrenches depend on the user releasing the load on the wrench precisely at the point it clicks...and, on the internal spring system that causes the 'click'. They are not as consistent and accurate as beam-type wrenches. Digital units require electronics to be calibrated occasionally and can be temperature sensitive.
For the 'weekend garage warrior', the beam-type wrench is the best choice, IMO.
For the 'weekend garage warrior', the beam-type wrench is the best choice, IMO.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I'm a Craftsman guy, and have the click-type wrenches. They go in for calibration once a year.
Any precision tool should be regularly calibrated. Don't go to an aviation shop to have this done, as they are required to do additional paperwork...and so have to charge for it. The mfgrs are usually the cheapest route, although the turnaround time can suck. Snap-on is by far the quickest...I'm the only one in my circle of buddies that isn't Snap-On, and I always take flack for it
Trying to recall the last time I've seen a beam-type wrench in any builder's shop. They're darn hard to use in-car; remember that torque is a twisting force...so the beam is only accurate if you stop turning exactly when the reading is correct, and the only time you can see the correct reading is *directly* over the scale and pointer...try that on an installed SBC head bolt towards the back
Click wrenches are "auto-magic" - set the torque and turn...and the release (click) is pretty distinctive. I've never heard of anyone continuing to apply turning force after the release. For a novice, they're by far easier to use - but they are certainly more expensive and do require periodic calibration.
Any precision tool should be regularly calibrated. Don't go to an aviation shop to have this done, as they are required to do additional paperwork...and so have to charge for it. The mfgrs are usually the cheapest route, although the turnaround time can suck. Snap-on is by far the quickest...I'm the only one in my circle of buddies that isn't Snap-On, and I always take flack for it
Trying to recall the last time I've seen a beam-type wrench in any builder's shop. They're darn hard to use in-car; remember that torque is a twisting force...so the beam is only accurate if you stop turning exactly when the reading is correct, and the only time you can see the correct reading is *directly* over the scale and pointer...try that on an installed SBC head bolt towards the back
Click wrenches are "auto-magic" - set the torque and turn...and the release (click) is pretty distinctive. I've never heard of anyone continuing to apply turning force after the release. For a novice, they're by far easier to use - but they are certainly more expensive and do require periodic calibration.
Last edited by billla; Nov 1, 2011 at 11:40 AM.
