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I've read many of the procedures for obtaining proper idle mixture for your carb, and it all seems very hit or miss. So I am thinking about getting straight to the source with a wideband O2 sensor.
1. Is this the most surefire method to tune carb?
2. Better or worse than the vacuum or rpm methods?
3. What is the best way to determine proper idle rpm?
Any other useful tips. By the way I have an 81 with summit carb, vortec heads, Comp Cam XE268H.
You have an Innovate LM2...but you don't consider it to be an A/F meter?
No; what I said was an A/F meter isn't required just to set idle mixture...but if someone's trying to do a full tune on the carb, an A/F meter is indispensible.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You can't tune a carb properly without one. I have 2 an LM-1 and LM-2. Your engine can run great but you have no idea what your real A/F is until you can see it on the meter. I get 24mpg on the highway with a 600HP 427ci
Get the one with the 02 sensor that goes in a collector bung or one installed at the front of the head pipe.
Didnt have great luck with the LM1 that clips in the tailpipes
I have that thing - in a pinch it works OK, but it's not great. Key thing is that the sensor has to be powered if it's installed...so the bung needs a plug for when it's not in use.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by DaJesterMan
Motorhead, can you elaborate on how you go about using your wideband O2 sensor to tune the carb for 24 mpg? I'm very interested in your process.
Thanks!
Jester
Overdrive tranny helps but if you are cruising at the correct A/F it will improve you MPG significantly. Mine will run and feel the same at 11:1 A/f than 13-14 A/f. You won't notice the difference until you can "see" what you A/F is at and you can lean it out to get better gas mileage.
When I hear someone say they get 8 mpg with a big block or 10 mpg with an L48 they are running too rich and it is impossible to tell unless you have an O2 sensor because the motor is running fine. A chevy V8 will run fine at 10:1 or so and you have no idea why you are getting crappy mpg.
The O2 meter will pay for itself in a year no problem
So you just do trial and error to find the optimal cruise A/F ratio? I have a wideband O2 sensor and bungs, but I am having problems finding specific numbers I should be shooting for.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by MotorHead
You can't tune a carb properly without one. I have 2 an LM-1 and LM-2. Your engine can run great but you have no idea what your real A/F is until you can see it on the meter. I get 24mpg on the highway with a 600HP 427ci
Imperial I would think. Wayne did you have ny issues or problems with your Lm-2? The forum posted above has a lot of posts dealing with its shortcomings.
I seem to recall that some of the cylinders are naturally lean compared to others. If I weld in a bung (s) , which cylinder (s) would I want to hit for sure, and how far from the heads is optimum ?
I seem to recall that some of the cylinders are naturally lean compared to others. If I weld in a bung (s) , which cylinder (s) would I want to hit for sure, and how far from the heads is optimum ?
A single cylinder "pulses" too much to get an accurate reading. A typical install is at the header collector or collector extension.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by DaJesterMan
So you just do trial and error to find the optimal cruise A/F ratio? I have a wideband O2 sensor and bungs, but I am having problems finding specific numbers I should be shooting for.
target 14.5 to 15 and see how it feels, if you have surge than richen it up a bit. This should be your target for light loads and light throttle openings. Shot for 12.5 WOT
I seem to recall that some of the cylinders are naturally lean compared to others. If I weld in a bung (s) , which cylinder (s) would I want to hit for sure, and how far from the heads is optimum ?
The bung should be in or near the collector on a header (you can buy collectors with the bung already installed) or near the bend in a stock exhaust. Doesn't really matter which side. The bung should face at least slightly downward to keep moisture off the sensor.