VetteV8

And I would push the steering shaft a bit further in, so the ragjoint-rubber will be about flat.
Cor

Frankenvette

I noticed that too and was wondering about it as I'm getting ready to install.

aussiejohn

I couldn't agree more.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

VetteV8

I received finally all the parts I need from the USA, and starting work on the car today, I ran into some problems, one of them might be specific for the '81 model year, which has stainless steel exhaust manifolds, which appear rather wide.
I removed the standard heat shield, and still find, that the top-end of the box, being the square flange, which holds the adjuster screw, is fouling the manifold; has anyone run into this issue?
Seems like i need to remove the manifold in order to 'dimple' it to create some clearance.
Has anyone else with stainless steel manifolds have this issue, and what solution?

Secondly, a pitman arm from Speedwaymotors was advised from a Chevelle '74 model; I got that one, and find that the balljoint has a sloppy fit in the new pitmanarm.
I have read that tapered spacers are available in the US, but anyone any idea where?
I would need a wall size of around 15 thou [0.015"]
Any comments?
I have some pic's of this:




Thanks,
Cor

aussiejohn

VetteV8,

This is an example of what happens when you try to re-engineer a product from another vehicle to fit your existing car. Had you bought a Borgeson box right at the beginning, it would not only be in your car, but would have fitted without modification and you would now be driving the car instead of complaining how various parts don't fit.

Borgeson has done ALL of the work to make a great product that will fit into your car without any cutting or welding, comes with all the parts you need to make it fit, and gives you a written three year warranty on all of its products.

Caveat Emptor.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

tyancey00

When you have the ball on the car it does not seem to be loose. I am reusing the same linkage you are. I froze the valve on the end of the drag link. I am going to work on it tomorrow night and will make sure mine is not lose. I will take some pics for ya...

VetteV8

Aussiejohn, thanks for your great answer: it is really helpfull!!

And don't get me wrong, I am not complaining, I only reported an issue, which may have been resolved by someone else already.
And I will get it fixed, with or without assistence .
Cor

VetteV8

Tyancey, thank for your response, I will use a piece of shim metal, or turn a thin walled steel bushing on my lathe, would be a bit of a challenge, but I do like challenges.
I reported it here, because I do not like re-inventing the wheel
Cor

RobbSalzmann

Hi Cor,
I'm encountering the very same thing with a chevelle pitman arm.

I like the shim idea. I suppose a frustum cut from a very thin piece of steel could be used to snug things up a bit.

tyancey00

yup, found the same issue. looks like we are going to have to make a spacer for this. wonder if it should have a grease fitting? I think i will grease it and put a washer on top of it and tighten down with the castle nut and cotter pin....

VetteV8

So, I fixed the ball stud fitting problem, and quicker than I thought: went to make a 'trial piece' yesterdaynight from a bit of 3/8th gaspipe, just to get the taper right; set the topslide to 3.5* and after a few trial runs and adjustments, got a perfect fit in the hole in the arm.
Then I used a very sharp toolbit to turn the inside taper, which of course would be identical to the outside, as I only used the topslide.

For the record, I used a wall size of 0.44 mm [= 0.0173"], which ended up as shown below.
So the trial run ended up as the final product, as the stud fits perfectly now; perhaps I will use some Lock-Tite 272 on the stud at final assembly.
I trust this will help others who want to use the Jeep box.

Cor


bushing installed, small end shown:


Large end shown


Assembly:

donnie1956

Loctite makes a product for the pressing bushings and bearings. Better to use that to seat the outside wall of the bushing to the pitman arm.

VetteV8

I know, for instance 648 which is intended for bearings and bushings.
However, I happen to have the high strenght threadlocker 272 intended to permanently fix studs in engine blocks and the like, so I thought to use thàt instead.
Thanks for your comment
Cor

tyancey00

Well to update... I finished the instal. It worked out great. The only issue was a problem with header clearence. I had to go with block hugger headers. Then I burnt the plug wires and had to replace them with special boots and wires. I think everything is good to go...
Moral to the story; the jeep box for 50 bucks from junk yard works!

aussiejohn

tyancey,

I'm glad to hear that it worked out in the end, just a pity it's taken so long. Funny, I've had a similar length project on my '74 coupe - I pulled the vacuum booster around Christmas because it was leaking. I had a Hydroboost lying around and decided to fit that.

Well, I finally got the car running in late March and took it for a test drive. WOW!!! Combined with the Borgeson box and the Holden master cylinder, the Hydroboost makes it a real pleasure to drive. The steering was always great (after the Borgeson install) but now the brakes are dynamite!

But just like you with your Jeep box install, the HB was not easy sailing, especially with the Holden MC making things difficult. I had to make a 6mm adapter plate between the HB and MC and I welded nuts into the pedal box so that I could insert bolts from the engine side to secure the HB to the pedal box.

As the Holden MC had an integral prop. valve, I had to redo the brake lines from where the factory prop. valve was ( I removed it) forward. But it's now a different car to drive, and I'm just waiting to repair some of the interior trim that I broke during the install, before I go on a long drive.

Keep us posted.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

VetteV8

Just like tyancey, I finished the Jeep install too, a couple of months ago, there were no issues other than reported earlier, and the results are impressive, although I have not driven the car over a longer distance, due to the weather here, but that is changing rapidly now.

The car is now exactly following the intended path, which was not really the case before.
I am happy with it, and feel it was worth every penny and effort.
Cor