After long deliberations I decided to rebuild the engine for my 1972 LT1 With the head removed I did not feel any ridge on the cylinders, without having seen it yet I am confident all the metal shaving I saw in the oil pan is from: rod bearings or the main bearings. Either case I plan on getting a new crank to replace this one.
The question is: which crank should I get to run with the same stock pistons. I also would like to go with new aluminum heads, the same question: Which one to get so I still can use the stock intake manifold and the 650 Edelbrock carborator. Of course with the new heads I would like to upgrade the rocker, push rods and lifters. The stock lifters are solid.
If I decide to use the same heads, I would like to send them out and have a valve job done on them just so they are cleaned up and checked over. Any recommendations on what I use ask for as far valve angle and should I get new springs. What kind of rockers can I use to upgrade the stock ones to go with the solid stock lifter?
The other reason behind this: I’ve done all the work on this car to get it back on the road and I’ve never re-built an engine. Hence I would like to give it a shot, confident I can do this without too many broken parts. thank you in advance.

 

If as you say this car is an LT1 you'd better hang on to all the OEM parts if you're going to modify it to the extent that you're talking about. Take a good look at the cam and lifters also when disassembling it...there's a good possibility that with all the oil issues out there that you've wiped some lobes. Honestly, if it's really an LT1 and the numbers match and the mileage/wear is as low as it sounds you could just disassemble it, clean everything, have the heads reworked (valve grind) and put it back together with new rings,etc. If you're looking for real horsepower gains then some aftermarket stuff is in order but if you're just looking for a decent, healthy driver there's no reason to go overboard...just freshen up what you've got.

 

What do you really want from this? A rebuild to fix the issues and get running or to make a lot more power?
If more power then you need to decide what RPM range you want your power, is it auto/manual trans, etc...
You are jumping the gun on selecting parts before you have a plan. The parts need to work together from trans, to cam profile, to compression, etc...

 

He's also jumping the gun since he really doesn't know the condition of the engine other than the cylinders have a minimal ridge. The pistons could still be trashed.

 

You've got a couple of decisions right out of the gate. First and foremost, you need to decide if you're going to keep the engine 100% original, at least externally. If not, then I'd suggest carefully "pickeling" and setting aside your original block and building up from a later-model roller-cam block. You can still make something that looks "factory", but you've got a lot more options.

Second is to set a budget. I always kind of get shot down on this, but without a pretty clear budget you're going to hit rocks pretty quick with virtually unlimited options or worse...an engine that sits on the stand because you can't afford to finish it.

Third, educate yourself. You can't just drop things off at the machine shop and expect they know what you want - you'll need to be an involved educated customer to make this work, and a lot of it is understanding the process to come up with a good design. The process is a partnership with the shop...but ultimately YOU are accountable for the decisions. The books below are a good foundation:

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-Block-Chevrolet-Step---Step/dp/1932494219/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320858335&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Build-Horsepower-Design/dp/1934709174/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320860963&sr=8-1

Finally, you need to find a local quality shop that will work with a home rebuilder. They're not always easy to find, and it's a lot more about references than reputation. There are two extremes to avoid - "rebuilder" shops that crank out cruddy overhauls and lousy machine work, and race shops that will want to build a max effort, max budget engine..ONLY.

Don't - do not - buy a single part until you've got a good design and a clear plan. I see this bite more people than I can count.

 

All things Billa brings up are very valued, but I would also get that old engine out and see what you have. You said something about metal in the pan, get it apart and see what you have and then get back here and I'm sure people here could help you form a plan then.

 

Seconded

Unless you are going for 100% oem, set aside your engine and build another. And get a 400 sbc while you're at it.

 

one suggestion,don't buy a new crank yet,have yours magnafluxed and cut .010 or.020 if it's good.

 

Better still, have it magged, then MEASURE it (or vice versa). If it's within limits polish it up and run it.

 

I agree with Billla on all points, but would just like to emphasize one thing. My 1980 'vette has the "numbers matching", original, L48 engine. Big deal. They made a scrillion of 'em that year. Your LT1, if original and "numbers matching", is worth it's weight in gold, or at least soon will be. The rarity and "eliteness" of the LT1 'vettes pretty much guarantees that the original engine will always make the car itself worth a lot more. A LOT more. And, as time goes by, and less and less original engine LT1s exist, that premium will increase. SAVE THAT ENGINE!!!!!! Take it out, and store it, in a climate controlled environment, if possible, or with a thick coat of preservative, if not. Buy a crate motor, or rebuild an old 350 out of a pick-'em-up truck or something. Re-building that original engine to put out alot of power and running it is like wearing your $25,000.00 solid gold, diamond encrusted Rolex watch to work in the coal mine. It's just plain nuts!


Scott

 

Rebuild your motor if it is a original LT1 and then you will be done with it. You may be able to do a crate motor cheaper but later if you sell the car the buyer will want you to discount the car because of the engine issue even if you have the old engine. If you do build it do a three angle valve job and put a little bigger cam in it. I did that to my 71LT1 back in the day and my car would out run my friends 70 LT1 in the quarter mile and he had 40 HP on me.

 

How did you outrun your friends car when he had more power than you?

 

i agree, rebuild the LT-1. do some head work maybe some bowl work and a blueprint cam. i would never buy a numbers matching car with the block and heads in a bag. how would you know the stuff isn't junk? it could be cracked all to pieces.

 

I say store the motor and get a crate engine with the HP you want. If you rebuilt your LT1 to built a lot of power and inadvertently blow it you're going to regret it, whereas if you blow a crate motor, sure it costs money to replace but at least your car still has the possibility of going back stock.

 

Before you make any type of decison on anything, purchase a couple of the how to rebuild your small block Chevrolet books and read through them. Without having a modicum of an idea of what you're doing, you could botch up a valuable engine.

Are you sure you need a new crank?

Why put aluminum heads on an LT-1?

 

My apologies for this delayed reply. I finally got the heads and the block to the machine shop before the holiday kicked in. #3 piston rod bearing was gone, but caught it in time. Keeping the heads and having them refresh as suggested, it was a good thing. This engine builder suspect that someone had played with this engine before. I guess the valve guides were not done properly and the several valve seats were cut too deep.

Hence, new valves (the intake valves are really big as stated by the builder)

I gues the crank on this car is one of the none cast version and it is worth keeping and turn to re-use. The block was bored out to .020 over to accept the new pistons. So, new valves, bored .020 and turn the crank. Thank you for all your inputs.

 

Hopefully you've been very, VERY clear with the builder NOT to take a deck cut that takes out the stamp pad on the block.

Any details on the build, i.e. specific parts being used and machine operations?

 

Some people just miss the whole point, sometimes. Someday, when you sell the car, you put the original engine back in it. You just drive it around with the NOM so you won't ruin the original one, because it is an asset.


Scott

 

If it were me....
Valve job, Rings and bearings, cam and lifters with a timing chain set.
And a high pressure oil pump.

Then put it back together.

More than that then get another engine and bag this one.

Ralph

 

That's pretty much all that is being done at this point aside from being bored out to .020 and the crank being turn. This is because of several piston had some pitting on of the piston.