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Well, have finally got my new brodix RR heads, after all the shipping dramas
Have been in the process of installing them tonight.....but last long head bolt ( front of cylinder head on the final torque started to go "soft" Dam it all!!
I noticed the block has 2 helicoils all ready.( other bolts)
This bolt had 60lbs on it before it started to pull....
Best fix for this, advice please engine guys.
The engine had studs, I removed them and replace with bolts to reduce interference with header flanges, perhaps I should have left then alone!
Front one went in mine too guess its common.
Plenty of guys have tried to remove their old head bolt (up front like yours) only to remove half of one the other part was corroded. Right there by the water pump.
All is not lost.
If those threads have been overstressed in the past, it's just a matter of time before they strip. A bolt thread in a steel block should be able to withstand a 25-30% overtorque without any permanent damage. If any threads can't handle that, it's Heli-coil time.
When I had a 'seasoned' block built-up using oval port Race Rites' I had a similar issue, but this was with the 'tappings' for the water pump - fortunately I was able to 'Helicoil' the block without removing the engine!
This was certainly a 'bolt length' problem (as Jim has guessed) - not too short, but in reality slightly too long, consequently bottoming-out in tapping and stripping
Even if the bolt 'bottoms-out', it would still require significant overtorquing of the bolt to cause it to strip threads. This is exactly why a torque wrench (or well-calibrated hand/arm) is required...to detect problems like this before the threads become stripped. There are lots of "failure" points when dealing with fasteners; proper torquing minimizes them.
Even if the bolt 'bottoms-out', it would still require significant overtorquing of the bolt to cause it to strip threads. This is exactly why a torque wrench (or well-calibrated hand/arm) is required...to detect problems like this before the threads become stripped. There are lots of "failure" points when dealing with fasteners; proper torquing minimizes them.
The real problem will be if someone uses a waterpump (or any accessory) that perhaps has fixing lugs thinner than a stock item - it would be easy for someone to torque bolts correctly - then find the accessory is loose or leaking and then over-tighten the bolt without a second thought
Interesting. I've always felt if the part wasn't locked down when fasteners were fully torqued, the problem was an interference of parts or a fastener issue. I've NEVER found a good reason to overtorque anything.
Interesting. I've always felt if the part wasn't locked down when fasteners were fully torqued, the problem was an interference of parts or a fastener issue. I've NEVER found a good reason to overtorque anything.