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Need help with 82 fuel problem

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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Default Need help with 82 fuel problem

I bought this 82 vette this summer. When I went to look at it the guy started it up and it seemed to start right up. I had is shipped to me in June. I didn't even look at it until October, when I went to start working on it.

Now, I can't get it started. There is no fuel coming out of the injectors. (except for a few drops now and then) I have changed the fuse by the battery, checked the fuse in the box, changed the pump and strainer, and still nothing. Any ideas on what I should do next? At this point I am having some serious regrets. I had heard some bad things about the crossfire engines and I guess I should have listened. But I got a pretty good deal and couldn't resist. I just want to hear my baby run!

How can I tell if the new pump is pumping? I am even wonding if I wired the new harness right! There were two wires in the harness, a grey and a black one, and two black ones on the old unit. One of the black wires was soldered directly to the unit, which I connected to the black wire of the new harness.

Please help!
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:33 AM
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Default .......

.....crickets chirping......
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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First, do you hear the pump run when you turn the key on?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:29 AM
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I am not sure, but I think I hear it. I also hear a click from behind the seat, as well as a buzz coming from the injector area.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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Check this site, may help. They have some good info.

http://crossfireinjection.net/
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Is the pump getting power? If not then start tracing back.
Check the fuel pump relay for power and signal there.

Also spray some carb cleaner into the engine to get it started and see if it starts pumping fuel after it starts. if so could be a fuel pump relay and/or oil switch.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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When i bought mine it had sat since 07 fuel pump went out, replaced the pump and nothing, verified fuel was at the injectors and then founf the injector screens had gummed up. Cleaned with injector/carb cleaner and poof i had gas. squirting out. Actually to much squirting i pinched the old orings and they let pressure bleed by. Need to order those orings still.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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I removed the fuel line from the filter and checked to see if any gas came out after I turned on the ignition....none. I found the fuel pump relay and it does click when I turn on the ignition. How do I check to see if there is power to the pump?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ksumt93
I removed the fuel line from the filter and checked to see if any gas came out after I turned on the ignition....none. I found the fuel pump relay and it does click when I turn on the ignition. How do I check to see if there is power to the pump?
What i did to verify the relay wasnt bad was take a Voltmeter / voltage test probe pull the plug apart and stick the red lead of meter to the fuel pump power wire & black to ground should be 12 volt +. I am not sure what color wire it is cant remember that far back been at least a month.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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OK...I did a little make-shift testing. There is power going into and out of the relay. No power into the tank. I jumped the battery directly to the pump and she pumped like crazy. (I only did the for a couple of seconds for fear of damaging something.) So somewhere between the relay and the tank, I am loosing power. Any ideas?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Look at your wiring diagram. A relay will energize with one wire but it does not neccessarily use that same power source to pass through the relay to the pump. It gets a signal voltage to close the relay coil which closes a set of contacts which creates a path for the supply voltage to pass through on its way to the pump. Find a diagram that shows the relay wiring then check the source side of the contact for voltage, if none exists, keep tracing it to find out why. Could also be a bad relay, just because it clicks does not mean the contacts are closing properly, or that the internal connections are good. That can be checked with a meter and a schematic as well.

edit: I see you proofed the relay and thats good, you have done the hard part. Use an ohm meter to verify continuity on the wire to the pump, you will find the problem.

Last edited by 81pilot; Nov 16, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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edit: I see you proofed the relay and thats good, you have done the hard part. Use an ohm meter to verify continuity on the wire to the pump, you will find the problem.[/QUOTE]


Question: The wire coming out of the relay looks like it goes into the big control module thing in the battery compartmant. How do I know which wire coming out of that thing to trace back to the pump?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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SOunds like an open what if you just run a new wirenext to the existing sounds like you are on the right track. i have no idea where the wires run and if you can get to them maybe someone else can shed some light.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ksumt93
edit:
Question: The wire coming out of the relay looks like it goes into the big control module thing in the battery compartmant. How do I know which wire coming out of that thing to trace back to the pump?
That big control module, is the computer (ECM). It controls the pump, by sending the pulse at start up. If you hear the relay click, there probably nothing wrong with it. Start on one end or the other and check the wires and connections to the first place you have fire. You will find the problem.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ksumt93
edit: I see you proofed the relay and thats good, you have done the hard part. Use an ohm meter to verify continuity on the wire to the pump, you will find the problem.

Question: The wire coming out of the relay looks like it goes into the big control module thing in the battery compartmant. How do I know which wire coming out of that thing to trace back to the pump?[/QUOTE]

You must get a wiring diagram. The ECM is the computer, it tells things what to do. The wire going to it, must be the trigger. The actual power to the pump will not go through it, only through the realy, that is what the relay is for. If no one has done so before I get to work tomorrow, I will bring in my manual and scan and send you a copy of the diagram so you see how it operates. You should be able to narrow it down with a meter and a diagram in your hand.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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OK. I am stuck and here is the latest. First of all, I don't have an meter, but just a test light. There are three wires going into the tank. A black one (which I assume is the ground), a tan one (which lights my test light up bright for about 2 or 3 seconds and then turns off) and a pink/orangish one (which turns on dimmly when the key is on and stays on. I assume it is for the gauge?) I don't understand why my fuel pump isn't working! When I run jumpers from the battery directly from the battery to the tan and black wires and the pump works fine.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ksumt93
OK. I am stuck and here is the latest. First of all, I don't have an meter, but just a test light. There are three wires going into the tank. A black one (which I assume is the ground), a tan one (which lights my test light up bright for about 2 or 3 seconds and then turns off) and a pink/orangish one (which turns on dimmly when the key is on and stays on. I assume it is for the gauge?) I don't understand why my fuel pump isn't working! When I run jumpers from the battery directly from the battery to the tan and black wires and the pump works fine.
Harbor freight $5 for a meter if one is near you,
Well at least they both have power except the ground which is good. Meaning the thought of an open in the wire is not true. I thought i had read somewhere the is an oil pressure switch that will turn off the pump should no oil pressure be detected.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ksumt93
OK. I am stuck and here is the latest. First of all, I don't have an meter, but just a test light. There are three wires going into the tank. A black one (which I assume is the ground), a tan one (which lights my test light up bright for about 2 or 3 seconds and then turns off) and a pink/orangish one (which turns on dimmly when the key is on and stays on. I assume it is for the gauge?) I don't understand why my fuel pump isn't working! When I run jumpers from the battery directly from the battery to the tan and black wires and the pump works fine.
If it ran before and it doesn't now you probably wired the new pump wrong. I have posted the schematic here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...burate-it.html
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Aldo_45030
Harbor freight $5 for a meter if one is near you,
Well at least they both have power except the ground which is good. Meaning the thought of an open in the wire is not true. I thought i had read somewhere the is an oil pressure switch that will turn off the pump should no oil pressure be detected.
Thats correct the oil pressure sensor will turn the pump off if there is no pressure sensed. The diagram I have linked in the other thread shows how that works.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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If that wire lights it up for two seconds, the computer is doing its job. So, go in there and find out what is wrong with the pump wiring. While you are in there, if you didnt change the little rubber connector hose, when you changed the pump, change it.
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