Basic Question on Crank Wipers
Thread Starter
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
Basic Question on Crank Wipers
Looking to put on crank wipers when I put the new Stefs oil pan on a new 383 build. Then I got to thinking that I really don't know how they go on. Do they bolt on between the pan rails and the pan? If so how do you gasket it?
Bud
Bud
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 11
From: Algona, WA
I like to put studs on all my motors with scrapers. You will find that the
sheet metal scraper won't want to go over all the studs easily. Drill out
all the holes slightly oversized, except one on each end to maintain position of the scraper. To fit it, will require it to be marked out where it needs to be ground and profiled for counterweight/rod clearance.
Start out by just installing one stud on each end to hold in correct position. Rotate crank until it hits, mark out, grind, reinstal and check until it clears. Now drill the remaing holes on the scraper slightly oversize and instal studs. Drop the scraper over studs and see if it will fit and recheck clearance at crank/rods.
You will want to use a good sealant at the block/scraper side and scraper to pan gasket. A one peice pan gasket works well.
Just remember that all that oil getting scraped off the crank will build up at the pan rail. If not sealed well, it could be a leaker.
Dave
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 11
From: Algona, WA
Thread Starter
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
Yep, Wondering About The Wiper...
Ok, so it bolts up to the 'side' of the pan. It seals with a gasket between the wiper and pan and I presume the threads would need to be sealed too. I understand about getting it to fit the rotating assembly but how do you know where to place it? How high/low? I guess you just measure to pick up best orientation front and back.
Thanks for the time.
Bud.
Thanks for the time.
Bud.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 11
From: Algona, WA
The scraper sandwich's between the block and the pan gasket.
So...Block, sealer, scraper, sealer, pan gasket, pan.
If this is for a street car, I wouldn't spend the time. It increase's the chance of leakage. I use them on my more radical wet sump builds as it allows me to run a quart lower in the pan...which is worth about .05 in ET. That said you may feel it's worth the time and effort.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Your probably right. Myself, after having tried a fitted scraper and not seeing any wortwhile results, have not bothered to go that route again. It is reputed that the additional drag generated by a fitted scraper defeats the additional gains in windage control. Your better off spending the money on a Canton oil pan with big volume. The more volume the less entrapment of oil in any given system. My current pan is a Canton circle track large volume pan with road race hating in it. Cost, around $500, speed costs money son, now how fast do you want to go?
Thread Starter
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
If I was just gonna go to church on Sundays, I wouldn't be putting on a Stefs' pan. Having said that, I'm not sure if a wiper is worth it either. Question: Where's the drag? I thought the wiper had a clearance to the counterweights.
Bud.
Bud.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
My friend has a 10K RPM Spintron machine. I have watched oil systems testing on USAC midget motors. When things aren't right the oil entrained by the crank can get over 1/2" thick. The scraper your proposing will be trying to shear off a oil ball that will cause drag. Nothing in life is free, but sometimes you get ahead in a tradeoff. Your motor may make more HP with a scraped, I just know mine didn't make more than 3HP more with a closely fitted scraper than it did with a louvered flat tray so I won't ever a spend all the time required to fit another scraper again. I was told after the test that I was wasting my time by my friend but, most people have to learn for themselves.
I have watched this same builder loosen a timing chain tensioner on a 750cc super bike motor and picked up 8HP with this tweek. I have also seen him hunt and search after a motor freshining to find 12HP that was missing due to a poorly reproduced timing cover casting that effected cam timing. It took over a week to find that problem. This was on a Windsor Ford motor.
I have watched this same builder loosen a timing chain tensioner on a 750cc super bike motor and picked up 8HP with this tweek. I have also seen him hunt and search after a motor freshining to find 12HP that was missing due to a poorly reproduced timing cover casting that effected cam timing. It took over a week to find that problem. This was on a Windsor Ford motor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Whether or not it's worth any performance at all, with the issues I've had keeping the oil pump primed in long sweepers (even with gated RR pan and submerged pump) I need a scraper to help return oil to the sump as quickly as possible. Have an Accusump that's going in this time around also and, yes, it actually corners than hard. That said, if you're only concerned about straight line acceleration, such problems don't factor into your decision.
TSW
TSW
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Nov 19, 2011 at 11:27 PM.
