When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Scotty - Maybe you should write a book,
"Zen and the Art of Corvette Maintenance"
Maybe I will. Then I would get to say things like "When setting the idle on a Holley 4-barrel carburetor, you must be IN the idle circuit, but not OF the idle circuit........."
Adam, that sucks man, sorry to hear and see that for ya! Someone teach me... Valve recession, I see how the valve has dropped back into the head and is not flush... what is the cause of this and why did it happen. What would have eventually happened had Adam not opened up the head and found this. I don't know much about how the internals work, i mean I know the names of the parts but never rebuilt an engine.... well yet.
thanks guys,
Sully
Hey Sully,
Thanks for that - I knew there was a head problem when I got the car and was expecting the worse. The purchase price of the car reflected this job so it's all good. My wife said to me last night - "I think this car got to our garage and just said whew... now I can finally let go and be taken care of" It's had several years of Bubba owners and that will be cured now.
The really odd part of this is that this cylinder still held a solid 120 on the compression test. These are not the original heads given the small valve size so I'm not in the least bit upset about junking these and putting something better on when I rebuild the engine.
My cam and lifter kit showed up today along with my timing chain and engine gasket kit so I've already started to gather up the parts needed. I'm shooting for the end of December and it will be running again - this depends on how quickly I get the engine compartment detailed and the front suspension checked over and since I have everything out I'm going to rebuild the 4 speed at the same time.
Maybe I will. Then I would get to say things like "When setting the idle on a Holley 4-barrel carburetor, you must be IN the idle circuit, but not OF the idle circuit........."
If I put the JB on real smooth I won't even need to lap it in
Hello iokepakai,
It's beautiful here this time of year. The weather is cool and perfect for working in the garage (or riding). I'm on a mission now... Will have this car running in no time. Starting at the heart (cam shaft) and working my way out from there.
Adam
I am in the planning stages of doing a top-end upgrade on my '80 'vette, and I have been doing some research, and having discussions with forum members who can be considered expert in this area, and the people who strike me as the most credible all say the same thing: Start with the cylinder head, and go from there. Pick your cylinder heads, then a cam that matches up with the rpm range of the heads, then an intake......well, you get the idea. I think it is because the cylinder head is the biggest financial investment, it just makes it easier that way. If you already have the cam, now you have to pick a head that matches the cam, and there is not nearly the same variety of cylinder heads as there is cams.
Here is some advice that others might argue with, but here goes anyway: If you have an automatic tranny, stay a little on the conservative side, if you have a manual, you can "let it all hang out" a little more.
Agreed Scotty... I already have the new heads purchased so I picked the cam based on that, the intake, carb and exhaust (headers and 2 1/2" pipe). Also factored in my 4 spd as well. Sorry, my previous comment didn't include the fact I have heads ready to go.
Thanks for that - I knew there was a head problem when I got the car and was expecting the worse. The purchase price of the car reflected this job so it's all good. My wife said to me last night - "I think this car got to our garage and just said whew... now I can finally let go and be taken care of" It's had several years of Bubba owners and that will be cured now.
The really odd part of this is that this cylinder still held a solid 120 on the compression test. These are not the original heads given the small valve size so I'm not in the least bit upset about junking these and putting something better on when I rebuild the engine.
My cam and lifter kit showed up today along with my timing chain and engine gasket kit so I've already started to gather up the parts needed. I'm shooting for the end of December and it will be running again - this depends on how quickly I get the engine compartment detailed and the front suspension checked over and since I have everything out I'm going to rebuild the 4 speed at the same time.
Could someone explain to me how that cylinder held any compression at all???
Agreed Scotty... I already have the new heads purchased so I picked the cam based on that, the intake, carb and exhaust (headers and 2 1/2" pipe). Also factored in my 4 spd as well. Sorry, my previous comment didn't include the fact I have heads ready to go.
Could someone explain to me how that cylinder held any compression at all???
The only thing I can say is the valve must have been pulled so tight into the head that is formed somewhat of a seal. The spring on that valve was aprx. 1/2" higher then the rest on that bank.
Know what you mean bout bubba'd! My cam was retarded and held in by lag screws! HAHA![IMG][/IMG] I installed a solid Crower 00320 cam advanced 4 deg and cool face (EDM) lifters,and roller rockers.With the roller rockers you cant even tell it's a solid cam.The Edelbrock heads were still lookin good so I kept those on.This combo is working well with quick response.great low end power.No lash change since install 4 months ago.It was recommended that I install this cam 4 deg advanced for better low end torque,it appears to have been great advice.Don't forget to degree in your new cam,and set your timing for best performance.Here's my engine after the while I'm at it I'll do this..and this .and this.. ..Aloha's & Good Luck [IMG][/IMG]
There is an expert on this forum who says valve recession is a myth. What you posted must be a photoshopped picture as in his world this won't happen in a street motor.
Time for a new set of heads don't put a dime into these heads. Vortecs are cheapest option. You'll gain an easy 20-30HP with a swap to better heads.
While valve recession (much like today's recession) is NOT mythical, I don't think what we're seeing here is mere recession...this is a full-blown DEPRESSION, most likely caused by a poorly-fitted hardened valveseat that broke in two and exited through the exhaust port. While a moderate recovery could be initiated by merely replacing the missing seat and grinding the valves, the stimulus obtained by bolting on a good set of aftermarket aluminium heads could provide the much-needed full recovery that would lead to many years of happiness and prosperity.
Adam, that sucks man, sorry to hear and see that for ya! Someone teach me... Valve recession, I see how the valve has dropped back into the head and is not flush... what is the cause of this and why did it happen. What would have eventually happened had Adam not opened up the head and found this. I don't know much about how the internals work, i mean I know the names of the parts but never rebuilt an engine.... well yet.
thanks guys,
Sully
Cause? Unleaded fuels. What happened, GM worker probably didnt notice that electric arc (induction hardening) process missed that particular exhaust valve seat. What to do about it? Buy heads with hardened exhaust seats. We have noticed at the machine shop I am associated with that GM actually installs hardened seats on HD trucks with Vortec motors. Light duty trucks still get electric arc treatment.
While valve recession (much like today's recession) is NOT mythical, I don't think what we're seeing here is mere recession...this is a full-blown DEPRESSION, most likely caused by a poorly-fitted hardened valveseat that broke in two and exited through the exhaust port. While a moderate recovery could be initiated by merely replacing the missing seat and grinding the valves, the stimulus obtained by bolting on a good set of aftermarket aluminium heads could provide the much-needed full recovery that would lead to many years of happiness and prosperity.
While valve recession (much like today's recession) is NOT mythical, I don't think what we're seeing here is mere recession...this is a full-blown DEPRESSION, most likely caused by a poorly-fitted hardened valveseat that broke in two and exited through the exhaust port. While a moderate recovery could be initiated by merely replacing the missing seat and grinding the valves, the stimulus obtained by bolting on a good set of aftermarket aluminium heads could provide the much-needed full recovery that would lead to many years of happiness and prosperity.