which block to use?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
which block to use?
Hello everybody from yet another newbie. This summer I bought a 1969 large journal 327 block and a 1979 c3, 4 spd. My first vette. My question is did chevy make any changes over that 10 span that would make the 1979 350 block a better canidate for a rebuild than the 327. So you know they both should be 2 bolt blocks and my intent is a 383 in the 400ish hp range. It would be nice to build the 327 block and still be able to enjoy the car until engine swap time. Thanks in advance for any advise.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I don't think you can 'hog' enough metal out of the cylinder walls of a 327 to get to 383 cubes.
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Oops! I was remembering the bore size on the 283. My bad.... :bb
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Oops! I was remembering the bore size on the 283. My bad.... :bb
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 21, 2011 at 01:19 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
327 is a 4 inch bore as is the 350. Stroke is a 1/4 inch longer in the 350. Either may go 4.030 or a little more. Have it sonic mapped then you'll know for sure. If the shop that does the boring has a boring bar that will offset a little they may be able to save a 0.030 final bore for you.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
I don't have the casting number with me, but there is a casting number that was used for both. Doesn't matter they are the same bore. Could be the same casting number with a different crank. The 383 will just be anoth 1/4 inch, an 1/8 both directions. You're talking 0.125 each way longer than the 350 crank. The 383/350/327 only change is the stroke.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Either block will work; there's no real difference in strength between them.
Some idea of the budget for the build would help; generally I'd say if you're starting from complete scratch for a build your best bet is a later model roller-cam block. They're relatively cheap, solid blocks and being able to use the factory roller cam is a huge plus. If your power targets were a bit lower, buying a complete roller-cam block with Vortec heads would be a cheap platform for around 375 FWHP.
Some idea of the budget for the build would help; generally I'd say if you're starting from complete scratch for a build your best bet is a later model roller-cam block. They're relatively cheap, solid blocks and being able to use the factory roller cam is a huge plus. If your power targets were a bit lower, buying a complete roller-cam block with Vortec heads would be a cheap platform for around 375 FWHP.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Either block will work; there's no real difference in strength between them.
Some idea of the budget for the build would help; generally I'd say if you're starting from complete scratch for a build your best bet is a later model roller-cam block. They're relatively cheap, solid blocks and being able to use the factory roller cam is a huge plus. If your power targets were a bit lower, buying a complete roller-cam block with Vortec heads would be a cheap platform for around 375 FWHP.
Some idea of the budget for the build would help; generally I'd say if you're starting from complete scratch for a build your best bet is a later model roller-cam block. They're relatively cheap, solid blocks and being able to use the factory roller cam is a huge plus. If your power targets were a bit lower, buying a complete roller-cam block with Vortec heads would be a cheap platform for around 375 FWHP.
Nice Hydraulic cam and lifters are $100 for a Summit set and $180 for name brands.
Why is it time after time you insist on over budgeting someones engine rebuild?
And he said he has a 327 and a 350, nothing was said about looking for a block.
And also he would get more power out of the 350 because of the larger cubic inch displacement.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Roller cam and lifters are $500 and up.
Nice Hydraulic cam and lifters are $100 for a Summit set and $180 for name brands.
Why is it time after time you insist on over budgeting someones engine rebuild?
And he said he has a 327 and a 350, nothing was said about looking for a block.
And also he would get more power out of the 350 because of the larger cubic inch displacement.
Nice Hydraulic cam and lifters are $100 for a Summit set and $180 for name brands.
Why is it time after time you insist on over budgeting someones engine rebuild?
And he said he has a 327 and a 350, nothing was said about looking for a block.
And also he would get more power out of the 350 because of the larger cubic inch displacement.
I noted right up front that either existing block would work.
Not sure if you caught this, but he's doing a 383 - so he's not going to get more displacement out of a 350 block
I give advice based on my engine building experience - I don't give snap answers to questions, but try to ensure I give a complete answer so the OP can make their own decisions.
Last edited by billla; Nov 20, 2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
327 blocks can require a bit of Hardblok in the bottom as insurance for the clearance.
Last edited by billla; Nov 20, 2011 at 04:48 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
I don't feel that I am hi-jacking, as this could be of interest to the OP, as well.
Scott
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I err on the side of caution...because the price of failure is high
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
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From: Southern Indiana
OK but if you just rebuild both and over bore .030 wouldn't the 350 be a 355cid and the 327 be a 332cid?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
If you would like my humble opinion, I would use the 327 block for the 383 build. Unless you are willing to find another block with a one-piece rear main seal and roller cam. Drive the car with it's original engine (if it is original) while you build the 383. When it's time to do the swap, yank the 350 and put it in mothballs for future use. If it's the original engine, it'll be worth saving. Sooner or later, even a '79 'vette with the original engine will be relatively rare. And if it's with the car, it's a "numbers matching" engine (whatever that means), if it's separated, it's just another Chevy 350.
Scott
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
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Thank you all for your respective opinions. I've decided the 327 is my block to build. Scotty hit another point that was wandering in the back of my head. Storing the unmolested original block for "who knows what the future may hold"
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Sooner or later, someone will be glad you saved that motor. It might be a hundred years from now, long after you and I are deep in our cold, cold graves, but sooner or later.........
Scott
Scott
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Isn't there alot more work has to be done to a 327 to make it a 383?
And what block does all the parts house use in their 383 conversions.
I have never heard of using a 327 for the 383?
Whats the risks and advantages of using the 327 rather than the tried and true 350???
And what block does all the parts house use in their 383 conversions.
I have never heard of using a 327 for the 383?
Whats the risks and advantages of using the 327 rather than the tried and true 350???
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Last edited by 63mako; Nov 22, 2011 at 05:47 PM.