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First, a big thanks to Jim Shea for his steering column papers. What an invaluable resource.
I initially pulled the T&T steering column from my 73 to replace the ignition cylinder (key would come out in all positions), sector gear (teeth were chewed), warning buzzer, horn parts etc…and to paint everything up nice. I have it all back together now and everything is tight, except for some movement in the tilt. There’s no side to side or radial play in the wheel at all. And, the telescopic locking mechanism works great. But, when I pull downward on the steering wheel in all positions, it moves slightly and then springs back upward. I measured the movement to be between 1/16-1/8 of an inch. As I understand from Jim’s papers, this could be loose “tilt shoes” or a worn shoe pivot pin.
Questions:
Is that much movement common/acceptable in these columns?
Is there anything else to look for that will cause this movement?
Are the tilt shoes and pivot pins available? None of the major vendors I’ve checked list either.
My 69 T&T exhibited the same loseness that you describe. However, the problem that I found was not the typical problem that Jim covers in his papers. Using Jim's exploded view, I found that Pin #50 was not fully inserted in Bearing Housing Support, #49. The 1/8" diameter SS pin, when correctly installed, passes through three drilled bosses. In my case, the pin had barely engaged the third boss, thereby allowing it to flex and "wallow out" the Support. The flexing also opened up the bore in the center boss, so all 7 tilt positions were affected. Long story short, I sleeved the bore. Now, all is well.
Drilling, inserting bushings in the support (and/or bearing assembly) and rebuilding the unit(s) was a bit more complicated than my papers can cover. However, if you have access to machine shop equipment that type of rebuild is not out of the question.
Otherwise, if you find that your support, bearing housing, (or lock shoes) are worn out you might be able to purchase a new (or rebuilt one) from one of these rebuilders.
My 81 sounds like it has the same problem but the steering wheel moves about 1/2" up and down is it possible to send me a copy of the "steering column papers" Thanks.
There are a few kits that are available. Scan through this Zip site and you will find a rack kit.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={fa4c1ebb-e8fb-45de-b613-1d53b469dfa3}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=Steering+Column+Components&
It is also available from Willcox and other suppliers. It is about the only kit. It is expensive but it has both upper column bearings, the rack, plastic sector, and other small parts. Lock cylinders, turn signal switches, plastic retainer, ignition switches, key buzzers, lower bearing, etc are all available seperately. (Again from numerous suppliers.)
Other large parts, (i.e. turn signal switch housings) are only available for certain years. Still other parts, (i.e. steering shafts, column jackets, shift tubes, etc.) are only available on the internet or possibly from some of the major rebuilders (and those guys know that they have a gold mine in these parts.)
Jim, thanks for all the info. What level of job is pulling the column and doing the whole R&R ? I can do component swaps ans suspensions, interior and stereo install, and other mechanicals but have never pulled a column. I know if I can't get it back in I'm looking at a tow job and a big repair bill !
My 69 T&T exhibited the same loseness that you describe. However, the problem that I found was not the typical problem that Jim covers in his papers. Using Jim's exploded view, I found that Pin #50 was not fully inserted in Bearing Housing Support, #49. The 1/8" diameter SS pin, when correctly installed, passes through three drilled bosses. In my case, the pin had barely engaged the third boss, thereby allowing it to flex and "wallow out" the Support. The flexing also opened up the bore in the center boss, so all 7 tilt positions were affected. Long story short, I sleeved the bore. Now, all is well.
I finally found time to tear back into my column. I discovered this was one of the problems. The 1/8" diameter pin had backed out of the third boss just as yours did, causing some of the slop. Fortunately, the hole wasn't worn and I was able to just drive it back in using a punch for a solid press fit.
Originally Posted by Jim Shea
Drilling, inserting bushings in the support (and/or bearing assembly) and rebuilding the unit(s) was a bit more complicated than my papers can cover. However, if you have access to machine shop equipment that type of rebuild is not out of the question.
Otherwise, if you find that your support, bearing housing, (or lock shoes) are worn out you might be able to purchase a new (or rebuilt one) from one of these rebuilders.
I would be interested in finding out if you are successful.
Jim
The other issue is with the holes in the bearing support where the tilt pins ride. The holes have worn just enough to have some minor slop with the tilt pins. I found the pins to be dead on spec per your numbers when I measured with my calipers. I'm thinking about just installing sleeves in the support holes to fit the pins. Or, I can just locate a new support housing.
Interesting. I hadn't heard of the problem where the lock shoe pin(s) were working out of the bearing housing or the support. Now we have two cases in the last month.
I know at the GM Tilt Strg Column Services website they have a picture of a number of bearing housing assemblies. Whether or not they would sell them individually, I don't know. http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/services.html
Boltnut,
My Disassembly & Repair Paper #2 covers removing the steering column from the car in pretty complete detail. For the most part, if you don't have any noticeable looseness in the tilt adjustment or in rotating the steering wheel, you can take things apart and just lube the moving parts. Just don't put lubricant on the lock shoe slots or pins. Also no lube on the sliding lock bolt.
If you follow D&R papers you might want to disassemble to the point where you have access to the four support screws. They seem to be the one area that does require fixing. You will have to pull the pivot pins so that you can remove the bearing housing and access the support. You can then remove each of the four screws that attach the support to the support lock plate. Then remove them (one at a time) loctite and retorque. They have a real tendency to loosen over time.