billla

I would do them one at a time and take each of them down just snug...and then go around the torque sequence. I can't see any issue with that approach.

Manuel Azevedo

You could do it this way, but I think your better to do it as billla has suggested. I don't see anyway that this is your problem by your descriptions but it won't hurt doing it either. If your going to do this you may consider doing a pressure check with the valve covers off and looking at these bolts for any possible leaks and any where else you can see with the valve covers off.( pressure checking with a radiator pressure pump)


I think it would be worth draining and flushing the cooling system well before taking to much apart and see if the oil comes back and then work from there. IMP

Bruthish

I am going to flush the radiator as you stated just to be sure that for some reason there wasn't any residual fluid in the cooling system.

If that doesn't help then I may do the one at a time bolt thing but one of you says that it could very well be the issue and one says that you don't see how it could. So if thats the case, I might as well just remove the heads all together and dbl check my gaskets and see if there is any leaks. Like I stated, these were shim gaskets (.015 I believe off the top of my head) that I used to raise compression based on a conversation with an engine builder. I will go back to standard ones if I have to.

billla

Probably a good call in the end. The steel shim-type gasket isn't really a "retrofit"; as noted previously they require a much flatter and smoother deck than is usually present. There are rubber-coated MLS gaskets that are a better fit for this application.

Did the shop pressure-test the heads after the work?

FYI, if you're going to pull the head measure how far down the pistons are in the bore and determine what the right gasket is for ~.040 quench. It may well be .015, as the pistons are typically .020-.025 down in the hole...but deck height should always be checked first.

Bruthish

When figuring out quench, it was right in that neighborhood (.040ish). Deck height was around .025.

Flushed the motor with radiator flush and straight water. Filled the radiator and then drained it a couple times...it ran out clear until water from block ran through it and it turned brown. Going to do a compression leak down test this week to see if I can tell whats wrong.

I always assumed that oil would rise and float to the top in water. Here is what came out of the radiator and it sat overnight yet as you can see, the brown stuff is at the bottom. Your thoughts?

sly vette

I think what you are getting outta' the block now is sediment.
Oil would separate and float to the top.

Bruthish

That's what I was thinking too....but where could it come from? It seems to be endless. The only thing I can think of was the assembly lube we put on the head bolts instead of thread sealer. It was put on all the bolts including the ones into the water jackets.

lionelhutz

That's rust coming out of the block. I bet you were running tap water and that will cause the water to turn rusty and scum up.

Flush it out well and get mixed coolant or an additive in it to stop corrosion. You may need to run a garden hose into one of the heater hose connections to really flush water into the block. Or pull the thermostat housing and the lower rad hose and stick the hose into the thermostat hole and let it run.

Bruthish

OK...may have gotten it. pulled the thermostat(it was clean) and lower rad hose as suggested and flushed the block until it ran clear and then even longer. Put antifreeze in and ran it up to temp 220 degrees twice and checked fluid and it was still nice and green Hopefully it will continue. Thanks for all your help!