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350 verses a 383

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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #21  
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Sounds to me like there is too much discrepancies in building of a 383.
I think i'll just stick with the 350 and overbore and spend my money on tried and true go fast goodies, like a too big a cam and heads and rev it to the moon.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Steve Ference
Question for George.
You say only a moron would use a 2.02 valve head. Please elaborate. I have 2.10 valves in my AFR 227 headed 434ci motor and it runs great!!!
I assume you mean its too much valve for a 383ci motor?
Steve.
No I'm refering to the Tony Barker so called racing engines. You need bigger than 2.02 valves to get big power numbers that they claim. Their numbers are just made up and they don't understand what it takes to build a motor.

The CarCraft motor build for their wild 383 used 227 cc heads. I have 227's on my 383
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #23  
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Thanks George , I understand, maybe this guy Tony Barker doesn t !!. When i bought the AFR heads, ( very expensive shipped to England ), the RACE READY flow numbers at 28", 295 cfm at .700 lift calculated 610hp.
However, my motor showed 678 hp on the dyno. So there BIG are variables, agreed?
Steve.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #24  
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Don't make it harder than it is. Cubes are ALWAYS good on a street motor. If you did nothing but add cubes...and if you only made 1 hp per cube....you're looking at 28 extra HP if you did nothing at all. It's pretty easy to get 425-450 HP out of a 383 with mega mild parts so even at that level of build you're looking at 1.10-1.17 Hp per cube. To put that in perspective it's like only 390-415 HP from a 355. The neat part is that the 383 will have better manners and low speed power at equivalent HP per cube builds. It will peak HP and TQ at a slightly lower RPM. If you want to keep the HP and TQ peaks at the same RPM that the 355 was going to end up at...you'll use a little bigger cam and heads maybe. Nothing radical...just a little bigger. IF you go that route...you'll make even more power at the slightly higher RPM.

If you need to do anything with the crank and pistons, there's no reason to not go bigger. Whatever you do with the heads...it will really respond well to better parts. If you can't swing heads now....go ahead and do the 383-396 now and be ready for heads later.....but if you can do heads now...you'll be awful impressed!

JIM
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #25  
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Whats wrong with my computer/link,?
Post was meant to say, so there are big variables, makes me sound like a moron (Tony Barker)!, sorry guys.
Steve.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tim H
Sounds to me like there is too much discrepancies in building of a 383.
I think i'll just stick with the 350 and overbore and spend my money on tried and true go fast goodies, like a too big a cam and heads and rev it to the moon.
Yes, that would probably be your best choice. A 350 with to big of cam and heads.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tim H
Sounds to me like there is too much discrepancies in building of a 383.
I think i'll just stick with the 350 and overbore and spend my money on tried and true go fast goodies, like a too big a cam and heads and rev it to the moon.
Yea and watch the guy with a well built and thought out 383 leave you in his tire dust.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #28  
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Time is a concern for you TimH. Build the 350 you won't have to use up any time grinding on the lower cylinder case.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #29  
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Everyone has opinions some good some bad! If you listen to everyone you will have probably a bad (not good) engine. Most seem to think you race Dyno's! And that an engine has to have this or that or it can not run! BULL!! But I do think all are just trying to help here. I believe the OP needs to find ONE builder and go with his/her suggestions and keep all the confusion to a minimum. One thing I've seen in all the years of engine building, is people have to have parts to bench race with even though a stock configuration can do the same. Now people will say BUT BUT look at these Dyno sheets!!! Stock stuff with mild mods work very well but will lose the bench race to all the stroker aluminum head people! Budget and what one wants in the end is what counts, people will never really know or understand just how much power one really needs or wants but all try to help which is good, but for someone who doesn't understand engines well will be lost with all the bench race dyno sheets world. Now here is an opinion also to confuse even more maybe, but I would suggest the OP see if he can find people with some performance mods and see if he can drive that car and see if thats what he is looking for or not and go from there with one builder.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Yea and watch the guy with a well built and thought out 383 leave you in his tire dust.
Thats very doughtful, because that would mean just keep building bigger cube engines and always win.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 01:54 PM
  #31  
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If you're interested in have a solid engine built for you by a good shop, Larry's Engine & Marine here in Tucson has a great rep. They build mostly racing engines and forced induction street and marine engines.

Larry is one of those guys that will call you when there is a decision point about what part to use and take the time to weigh out all the options & cost and help you decide what you want in your engine.

PM me for contact info.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #32  
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I build my own, but thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #33  
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Any 350 vs 383 discussion should include the GM Performance Parts Crate Engines. They have a 2 year 50,000 mile warranty.

One example is below. It has Aluminum Vortec heads, would require a Vortec intake manifold etc.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En...8772&engCat=sb



Big-block-style power from a small-block engine!
If you're looking for a small-block Chevy that makes big-block power, we've got the engine for you! For the ultimate GM Performance Parts small-block crate engine, choose the ZZ383 – a combination of Fast Burn aluminum performance heads and a 383" stroker small-block that can add up to 425 horsepower and 449 lb.-ft. of torque.
A carefully engineered balance of torque-producing bottom-end power and horsepower-inducing Fast Burn cylinder heads combine for the ZZ383/425's stellar performance statistics. The Fast Burn heads have large 2.00"/1.55" valves and specially designed chambers that draw in lots of air and fuel, burning the mixture quickly and completely. It's a combination that generates great mid- and high-rpm power, which, when combined with the 383 cubic inch displacement, creates an awesome all-around performer.
The ZZ383 has a specially modified engine block and 3.80"-stroke crankshaft, which produce 383 cubic inches of pure performance. The reciprocating assembly is comprised of heavy-duty components including a 4340, nitrided, and induction-hardened forged crankshaft, and unique, heavy-duty powdered metal rods. It's 425 horses of bulletproof performance.
With the ZZ383/425, you get the power of a big-block with the size and weight of an aluminum-headed small-block.
If you've never driven a car with a stroked small-block and the top end components to support it, now is your chance!
**Applications have not been validated. They are merely suggestions of how you might enjoy your GM Performance Parts crate engine. Some applications may affect engine warranty. Some applications may not be emission legal; check state and local ordinances.


Warranty
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...arranty_4C.pdf

Sorry, Tim I was typing up this post before I saw you build your own stuff. In that case go for the 383!

Last edited by 99 Black Bird TA; Dec 4, 2011 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tim H
It sounds to me like there are too many discrepancies in building a 383.
I think I'll just stick with the 350 and overbore and spend my money on tried and true go fast goodies, like a too big a cam and heads and rev it to the moon.
We're looking forward to seeing the results.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 03:25 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by AGVI
We're looking forward to seeing the results.
Not anytime soon, my current engine cruises main street just fine.
But I have a block on the engine stand i might do a little to sometime just for fun and then buy a car to put it in, wouldn't be the first time!
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #36  
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Default Tony Barker

Tony Barker

Head Engine Builder / Hagan Racing

Chief engine builder and pit crew member for NASCAR Winston Cup Team Hagan Racing, with over a dozen qualifying pole positions and countless top-five finishes.

Drivers include:
- Sterling Marlin
- Terry Labonte
- John Andretti

TBRE has powered World Record-setting Outlaw drags, championship Dirt Late Model and Modifieds, world-class street rods, and race-winning machines in nearly every class of competition.

I give up
======================================== ======================================== ================
As far as your build Tim Good luck
if you decide to go the 383 route
and select the right complementing pieces
you won't be dissapointed.


Jim

Last edited by jimboscarbs; Dec 5, 2011 at 12:19 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #37  
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Just did the 350 to 383 thing and the cost was so close it makes no sense to redo a 350. Parts were the same only difference was roughly 100+- to mock up/clearance for rods/pan that was it.

Thats a LOT of bang for the buck right there.

Last edited by cv67; Dec 4, 2011 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #38  
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Got my first 350 in 1974 and had so many I don't care to count from mild to wild. With that said after my first 383 I would never build another 350 for myself . The extra 33 cubic inches really make difference . If everything is the same heads , cam , carb , ect 350 or 383 it will make about the same peak horsepower , but the 383 will make more power under the curve and peak at a slightly lower RPM . And this is something that you WILL feel in the seat of your pants.

Stan
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:09 AM
  #39  
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Mechanical advantage

Longer is stronger...
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