wont start/ wiring help
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
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wont start/ wiring help
I got a '69 427 4bl vette that was my dads and has been sitting in the garage for the past 20 years. So far i replaced the starter and the battery and did the oil change etc. I currently have the motor cranking but i cant get it started. The car ran when it was parked. i have also replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs, and distibutor parts. Just need some help on where to start and what could be wrong. The wiper motor is melted on the top (not from what i did) not sure if that would interfer with anything. Really just need some help to point me in the direction I need to go. Thanks
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Springdale Arkansas
One thing at a time
1. An engine only requires a few things to run... if it has these things it will run it just may not run well
1. Compression
2. Gas
3. Igniton Spark
It all needs to happen at the correct time to run also...
1. With the key in the off postion look down the throat of the carburetor and actuate the throtte and see if you see gas squirted in the front two barrels of the carburetor. If you do, this means you are getting close...
2. Pull one(1) Plug wire off (the easiest one to get to) then find and old spark plug and put it in the plug wire you pulled off. ( make sure there is no gas vapor present, fiberglass burns pretty good)
Then Ground the old Spark plug body preferably with a wire jumper to keep from the igntion biting you ( Providing you have a spark).
Have someone spin the engine over
While this is happening look at the extended tip to see if you get a BLUE spark. (Don't do this is the sunlight, it may be hard to see but you will hear it)
Blue Spark = you are getting closer
Provided you have not messed with the timing and both of these thing are ok it should run...
If you have messed with the timing ( it should at least belch or fart at you when you turn it over, if the above two things are ok)
Figure out which one of the above is missing and we will pursue that?
This is all with the assumption you have compression.
If both of the above are present then we may discuss something else?
Best Regards, Jim
1. Compression
2. Gas
3. Igniton Spark
It all needs to happen at the correct time to run also...
1. With the key in the off postion look down the throat of the carburetor and actuate the throtte and see if you see gas squirted in the front two barrels of the carburetor. If you do, this means you are getting close...
2. Pull one(1) Plug wire off (the easiest one to get to) then find and old spark plug and put it in the plug wire you pulled off. ( make sure there is no gas vapor present, fiberglass burns pretty good)
Then Ground the old Spark plug body preferably with a wire jumper to keep from the igntion biting you ( Providing you have a spark).
Have someone spin the engine over
While this is happening look at the extended tip to see if you get a BLUE spark. (Don't do this is the sunlight, it may be hard to see but you will hear it)
Blue Spark = you are getting closer
Provided you have not messed with the timing and both of these thing are ok it should run...
If you have messed with the timing ( it should at least belch or fart at you when you turn it over, if the above two things are ok)
Figure out which one of the above is missing and we will pursue that?
This is all with the assumption you have compression.
If both of the above are present then we may discuss something else?
Best Regards, Jim
Last edited by jimboscarbs; Dec 7, 2011 at 10:05 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I agree with the above approach. My 'money' is on either "spark" or "fuel" being the missing item.
For a fuel issue, most likely a float stuck in 'UP' position...preventing fuel from getting to intake. But, if you see fuel squirting when you look down the barrels, nix that one.
Spark can be defeated by mechanical issues: neutral start switch/clutch switch went bad. Or, ol' dad may have installed a hidden 'kill' switch as an anti-theft device. Lots of us old guys did that "in the day" because it was effective, cheap and we were capable of installing it. The most likely place for such a switch is under the driver's side dash pad area; and usually, it was a simple switch that cut the power to the coil.
For a fuel issue, most likely a float stuck in 'UP' position...preventing fuel from getting to intake. But, if you see fuel squirting when you look down the barrels, nix that one.
Spark can be defeated by mechanical issues: neutral start switch/clutch switch went bad. Or, ol' dad may have installed a hidden 'kill' switch as an anti-theft device. Lots of us old guys did that "in the day" because it was effective, cheap and we were capable of installing it. The most likely place for such a switch is under the driver's side dash pad area; and usually, it was a simple switch that cut the power to the coil.
