I already have a plan to go to a 383 but I was still wondering a couple things about my 350 on the 81, I know that year was a junkie year for the engine so I was wondering what would be the best combo to dump into that engine to put out some high hp/tq I can figure carbs and theres not to many intake that fits under the hood so my question is what cam/head combo would give a bang in a 350, I know theres other factors such as rear ratio but i just want to talk about the engine

I had a Cam/Lifter, Valvetrain, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/268, Lift .454/.454, Chevy
I dont know much on heads and want to know more such as the cc, is lower the cc chamber better? and what about the intake runner 195? I was told to get Intake Valve Diameter 2.020 in.

and i felt like i regretted the cam, so what im trying to get what cam/head combo would have gave me a bang for a 350 if i was trying to achieve over 350+,400+,maybe even 450? hp

 

edit.

 

Look at afrs web site under dyno sbc as far as cam head possibilities.

 

This was for a 383 setup I was wondering about

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-433-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-1036NP/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-40755/

 

I like the combination; however, why not get a balanced rotating assembly?

 

well everything i look up says you dont need it balanced if Im going to take it to a machine shop, so it sounds like i wont have any clearance problems?

 

You can have the machine shop balance it. That's the same combo I'm outing in my 400 shp.

 

If you're going in a gen 1 small block you will need to clearenced the block & might possible need a small base circle cam. Not for sure on that one.

 

Yes its the original engine from my 81 corvette 95k miles on it, It looks like 3.5k for the parts I want and I can do the labor myself but how much would the machining cost me roughly?

 

I think that you can do the clearencing yourself, might even be able to find a video on you tube. I don't know what shop rates are in the lower 48 but are costly up here.

 

If you still have the original 2.87 rear end gears in your '81, you might want to put some of that money towards a gear swap too.

 

Yeah already planning on it. Im just trying to get a total cost for my engine

 

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That cam is not a good pick as its only .520 lift and those heads are set up for .600 lift and with only .520 lift the over the nose pressure will be to low and will cause valve float. On those heads the exhaust flow so good a single pattern cam works the best from what I have seen and what Tony Mamo at AFR says.

On those heads it a good idea to CC the chamber to see what they actually are as I seen they run up to 2.5 CC's bigger then adv.

Your kit does not mention what lenth rods are being used and I would recomend a 6 inch rod as a 5.7 has to much hanging out of the bore at BDC which sometimes is not a good thing, 6 inch rods have more benifit less rod angle less drag, lighter pistons. If the crank is machine for a 6 inch rod it will internally balance for sure. Also Scat I beams with the 7/16 bolts offer good cam clearance and block clearance.

Machine work on the block should be follows

A sonic test should be done before anything even before cleaning.

Clean and mag

Hopefully you have a 4 bolt main and it should be align hone to achieve a straight main line bore, From what I have seen from many heat cylcles and time they don't seem to be very straight. Put it this way if they were good I would only have to cut the caps .001 and line hone but I have to cut a minimum of .003 and line to get the caps to clean up every where.

Zero deck you block so you will have at least .040 to .050 quench depending on the head gasket and then you will be boring off a squared deck to get you cylinders a true 45 and 90 degrees to the crank.

Bore and plate hone and make sure the shop is using good equipment and the same hardware your using in the end build to achieve good ring seal which is key to making power. I have seen to may leak down tests on newly rebuilt engines low because poor block prep.

You may have to stroker clearance your block on the bottom of the cylinders pan rails as GM castings very alot.

Seeing your using after market lifters the lifter and the bores should be measure for clearance as most aftermarket lifter run smeall for some reason from what I have seen the Morels are very close to OEM size .8425 and most others run .841

Sould check for timing chain clearance as well.

Balancing is a must and don't buy a prebalanced rotator as I have seen to many issues with them

Depending on the pistons the pin bores may need to be clearanced and if they are Mahle pistons they should be fine.

Pin bores of the rods will need honing and the big end should be broke down and retorqued and check for size and clearances should be set with a good bore gauge or plastigauge at the least.

A set of performance cam bearings should be used not stock replacement ones!!!

Hope this info helps!!

 

Yes absolutely any info on making a 383 is helping me. This is my first car and I got it a year ago so im trying to learn as much as I can. Would you also have any input on a 350 setup that, im still a bit confused on how to pick out heads and a cam. I did a rebuilt on my 350 but didnt think it was the kind of power I wanted so what should heads and cam should I look at to get power out of that 350?

 

Check with Chris Straub on the cam and he alos sells Morels lifters as well

Also Dart is selling there SHP Pro heads in a 180 and a 200 runners which is a good deal as Jegs has them for 920 complete http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-SHP-...91309/10002/-1

 

I bought the same heads except assembled & cam. Emailed afr about the spring pressure as I bought the heads from summit, expecting to have to change springs to match the camshaft. The said that unless I was planning on reving past 6200 rpm that the springs would be fine. Didn't figure @ 9.5 to 1 I'd be able to run to much bigger cam, and got the combo from there website. It's interesting about checking the cc of the chambers the first time I've heard of afr's cnc chambers being off, but I've no doubt that you have, now I'm glad that I haven't torqued them down yet. Glad you chimed in Carl.

 

The last set of AFR 210 was suppose to be 65 CC chambers and CCed at 67.5 which worked out fine!!!

Its always good to check!!!

 

Any dyno charts with some head cam combos?