I need to buy 2 new actuators shorly. But what if I cut the crimp, and take it apart? Any body had any luck repairing one? Cheeps the game. Thanks guys.......ram air in california.

 

Don't 'cut the crimp'.....just pry one side up (slowly & carefully). The internal pieces that wear are available and replaceable. If you are trying to save some money, that's the way to go. You can always clean and paint the metal parts.

P.S. Shoot lots of penetrant on the mounting bolts/studs and leave plenty of time for it to work. The studs on those cans are weak and will shear off in a 'blink', it the threads aren't "free".

 

90% of the time its the seal on the front of the actuator that goes. The one thats over the shaft. They are only a couple of dollars each. You can replace them.

 

I've never heard of or seen internal replacement parts for an actuator. (?)

 

Neither have I. It would be interesting to see inside the actuators nonetheless!

 

I've seen the inside of a few. Simply a large rubber diaphragm the same diameter as the housing, with the actuator rod attached to the center. That's it.

 

Determine if the diaphragm is bad first....I agree with the above post that it is probably the shaft seal that is leaking.
Recently diagnosed mine and am waiting for the parts.

 

Good.... I wont cut up the crimp till I check the shaft seal. I have a vac gun, and not afraid to use it. Read the headlite trouble shooting post, and made tracking down the leak way easier..p.s. So the two cup halves come apart w/o cutting? Also.......havent removed the actuators from the car yet. Better hit the bolts with the wd then. Really good advise on this forum guys.......Back in a min.....california

 

Yes, they can be opened without cutting. I opened one of mine a few years ago. Just pry open the crimp. Take your time. Pry open only as much as needed to free the halves. I'd make certain the problem isn't another seal first. Save you a lot of work.

 

No need for a vacuum pump to check an actuator. Remove both vacuum lines. Block the rear nipple on the actuator with your finger and try to lift the headlight assembly manually. If it can be moved, the actuator diaphragm is leaking.

To test the front 'witches hat' seal open the headlight half way and block the front nipple. If the headlight can be pushed closed, the seal is leaking.

 

mike.......Dang you guys are smart. I'll go try that right now.

 

Its the diaphrams..........nuts. O well.......I was going to open them up anyways. more later. bryan

 

Sorry it's the cans and not the shaft seal. But when you open them would you mind taking a pic.....Just curious.

 

hooooo.....good new$. Im an idiot.......as my karen will agree. I got confused between front and back on the headlight actuators test. corrected ...it is only the seals that need replacing. wheres the wo ho guy..... So.. only $40. and on there way already. Thank you all for the info. Pics as soon as I read the turt...ramair_bryan.

 

Just be carful with two things.

Removing the actuator is a bit ticky. Loosening it off and freeing it from the car is easy. You will notice there isn't much room to get them out. I'm not sure if they come out from the bottom. When I took mine off I had the hood open. There isn't enough room to clear the hood to take them out from the top unless you close the hood reach underneath and position the actuator up againts the AC core or rad...then carfully open the hood then pull them out through the top. They have to be positioned perfectly. It should be easier if you don't have AC.

Once out you will need to remove the part with the round hole in it at the front of the shaft....the part the pin goes through. You can not just unscrew it. The shaft can not rotate otherwise it will ruin the diphram in the actuator. You need to blast it with some liquid wrench or something similar. You will need to brace the shaft with out scratching it or denting the shaft or the new seal will not seat. You can grab the shaft near the very end past where the new seal reaches with a vice grip or pliers and unscrew the end piece. Or use something on the shaft before you brace it to avoid scrathing it like a cloth or piece of rubber.

Jim

 

I just got done rebuilding the front boot seals on mine. I took mine out from the bottom with the hood closed. I couldn't get enough clearance to do it from the top. I was also able to put it back the same way.

The part with the round hole in it is called the clevis. I hit the threads with PB blaster and that didn't work. I then used a propane torch on the clevis (not the shaft) for 10-20 seconds and, as you mentioned, held the shaft with vice grips and used a screwdriver through the hole in the clevis to turn it. Came right off.

Remember to count the turns or mark where the clevis sits on the threads so you can screw it back to the same position or the headlight will not pop up to the correct position.

Also, I used some lithium grease on the shaft to help the rubber inner and outter boots slide over the threads and shaft.

Brian

 

I removed mine today on my '69...Took me about 10 mins. per side including removing the grills for access.
Much easier than I thought it would be.
Now I just have to wait on the parts....They won't be shipped till the 19th.
When I disassembled the pass. side actuator I found that the seal was in 2 pieces. It's a wonder that it worked at all.

 

No parts yet.....but looking from underneath, it's all really acsessable. Im thinking of just removing and replacing the seals/boot as the actuators remain bolted in. unless i gotta heat up stuff that is. You know what was really cool today? since all the lines are working except the open lines that are plugged off, i ran to town for a min so i had to manualy lift the lights as i do. When I got to the parking lot and turned off the headlights... they flipped down automaticly. A bunch of kids went 0ooooo. So did I.

 

There's a lot of good advise here and you might try removing and reinstalling the actuators from the top by having a helper raise the hood all the way up and removing each one at the center of the hood opening.

 

Just got em in the mail. Heading out to install them. Dang fast delivery time. Back in a min with results........