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Headlight Door Warning Light

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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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Default Headlight Door Warning Light

Whats the best way to access the switch on the headlight assemblies that control the dash warning light? 1973 model.

Thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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Open the doors and reach up under the acess holes under the bumpers and the switch will be right there. Be carefull when your tighten the nut as the assemble is plastic and will be damaged with excess tightening.
Ed
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:02 AM
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Hi B,
Although there's limited access with the door open and the headlight bezel removed, the best access is from below.
Don't pull on the switch by mistake to try to move the door's position. It's just plastic, and if original it's pretty brittle after all these years.
Regards,
Alan

PS: Hi Ed, you posted while I was looking for the picture!


Last edited by Alan 71; Dec 17, 2011 at 10:04 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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Thanks guys. Tired of driving around at night with that red light glaring at me! Doors open fine and seem to be in full open position so I got to think I have a switch issue.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Alan,

From looking at the pic you sent I have to ask if you have found a Chev dealer that sells brand new c3's!!
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi B,
Don't pull on the switch by mistake to try to move the door's position. It's just plastic, and if original it's pretty brittle after all these years.
Regards,
Alan

Amen! Pay attention to this.

Dave
Round Rock, TX
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Hi,
No it's not a new one.
BUT, a VERY complete, (unmolested), car, is pretty easy to restore. It's a matter of the TIME a person is willing to put in to it! And some $$, but not TOO much!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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Alan, Very nice. I just bought a 73 coupe with 46000 miles. Probably paid too much for it, but it is a two owner totally unmolested car. Still has factory exhaust. My plan is to bring it back to like new and enjoy it. Will probably never get the money back that I will put in it but.....
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by brrujo
Alan, Very nice. I just bought a 73 coupe with 46000 miles. Probably paid too much for it, but it is a two owner totally unmolested car. Still has factory exhaust. My plan is to bring it back to like new and enjoy it. Will probably never get the money back that I will put in it but.....
Anyone restoring a C3 with hopes of getting their money back would be better off buying Greek government bonds!
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Rap,
I agree. you will most likely spend more money on the car than it is worth these days. In 1981 I bought a 69 Coupe L68 (427 3 x 2) for 4500.00. Needed some minor engine work and some new paint. Had about 13-14k in it buy the time I was done. Sold it in 2003. I assure you, I got my money back on that one!!

Those were the good old days.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by brrujo
Thanks guys. Tired of driving around at night with that red light glaring at me! Doors open fine and seem to be in full open position so I got to think I have a switch issue.
The system only works with the switches connected. If you have a bad switch(s), you can can simply disconnect the connector fom the switch, and you won't get the red light.

So, if you have the red light on whenever you headlights are on, then either one or both of your switches are connected. If only one of the switches are bad, you can disconnect that one, and the light will go off when the other is fully extended. Or you can disconnect both, and the red light will not come on at all.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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Thanks Marshman. That's what I need to do. The headlights open to the right amount but the light is always on with the headlights on so I'm not going to try to fix, at least not now. The fasten seatbelts light turns on too when I turn on the headlights. I'll see if I can fix the wiring on that when I take apart the console and dash this winter.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:00 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Left switch was broken. Went ahead and ordered both of them.

Thanks again for your help.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by brrujo
Alan, Very nice. I just bought a 73 coupe with 46000 miles. Probably paid too much for it, but it is a two owner totally unmolested car. Still has factory exhaust. My plan is to bring it back to like new and enjoy it. Will probably never get the money back that I will put in it but.....
Nice ride. Post some pics of the original exhaust. Would be helpful to us 73's restoring our cars.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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Hi b,
My 71 has about 46,030 on it.
I agree with 73, seeing some pictures of an original exhaust system would be GREAT. I'd especially like to see the clamps, mufflers, and position of the chrome tips!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 01:03 AM
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I will Most likely have it on the lift next week. I will take some pics. I can tell you, it's pretty crusty. I suspect a new exhaust system is in order for this year.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Hi b,
Actual production line exhaust systems are VERY rare these days, so seeing one would be a pleasure and informative!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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I know its an old thread, But as always I appreciate it . Problem solved.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by brrujo
...Alan,...From looking at the pic you sent I have to ask if you have found a Chev dealer that sells brand new c3's!!...
Alan is a heckuva nice guy and much too modest to brag about his '71. I try not to use the word "perfect," but Alan's car makes that extremely difficult to do.

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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Hi Mike,
Thanks very much!
I posted in another thread this morning that since I work/play by myself my screw-ups have all been done in private.
There is a list and it's quite long.
I think my best one is having my radio repaired, and sending it back twice, and then realizing that the battery can get so low that the radio light will come on, (confirming power,) but not supply enough current to operate the radio.
Regards,
Alan
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