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Just finished rebuilding my Power steering valve and Ram (1981). Started the car and could not move the steering wheel at all. Everthing moves fine when whe engine is off.
I also repaced with all new hoses. One of the hoses seemed to be wrong. The one from the pump to the valve. The one with the bolt, not the hose clamp. It had an 18mm bolt on the pump side, and I swear it was the wrong size on the valve side, but great persuasion finally got it in.
Checked the hoses, and the cross the way they should (I think) . Any suggestions?
I thought that to bleed the system I had to turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times -- that was what I was trying to do, but I could not turn the wheel.
Bleed the system with the front wheels off the ground and the engine not running. Do about 30 cycles lock to lock and ck. fluid level every 10 cycles. Disconnect ram from frame to adjust center point with the 7/16 nut on end of control valve. Use a new cotter pin when you reassemble it. Ck. Jim Shea's papers for complete procedure. mike...
If you can turn the wheel when it's not running but it locks up solid when running, bleeding the system is not going to cure it.
Pretty hard to mix up the pump to valve hoses. The small diameter pipe at the valve (outer most port on the valve) is the pressure line and goes to the threaded fitting on the pump. The large diameter hose is the return and is a slip fit with a clamp at the pump.
The valve to cyl hoses look correct.
Other than that, it would have to be in the valve, oil being directed to both sides of the piston at the same time. Once you have confirmed that the pump to valve hoses are correct remove the two hoses at the cyl and direct them into a container while someone starts the car. If you see oil coming from both lines at the same time something screwed up in the assembly of the valve.
Bleed the system with the front wheels off the ground and the engine not running. Do about 30 cycles lock to lock and ck. fluid level every 10 cycles. Disconnect ram from frame to adjust center point with the 7/16 nut on end of control valve. Use a new cotter pin when you reassemble it. Ck. Jim Shea's papers for complete procedure. mike...
So I bled the system as suggested, with the wheels off the ground and the engine off. I started the car and the wheel pulled to the right, When it got all the way to the stop, the wheel locked up again and I could not return it.
Stopped the car, brought the steering back to the center position then held it so it could not move. A friend slowly moved the balancing nut until it stopped pulling.
We balanced the valve using the GM instruction -- everything works perfect.
I guess it was so out of balance that at full lock it actually began to pump fluid into both sides of the piston.