Those who don't care for this post, please let those who does read and share their inputs.

I've received several PM inquiring about this, but hesitated to post just to share. Since Larry is a TP Alumni I thought I would take some heat for him. Enjoy



This photo shows where the system was installed, it took the place of the windshield washer.



Another shot of it.


This what it looks like before being installed.



This is the "Bubbler" the gas enters here to get scrubed before it enters the carb, removing and trace of corrosive solution from the the NaOH I use as the electrolyte.

These are several performance I noticed with and without;

The first is how the engine would lagged when the electric fan would kicked in without the system. When the system was onboard, I did not notice any engine lagged when it kicked in.

MPG: before the system I was getting 7.7mpg, with the system I was getting 9.9 mpg.

Performance: the car accellerate easier with the touch of the pedal and definitely at mid-range throttle. I had a buddy drive it with the system onboard (Corvette Nut). He was ammazed of the throttle reponded and the smoothness of the car in maintaining speed.

It ran cooler (cockpit test). With the system you definitely feel the heat from the trans area, with the system the heat seems lower (as per the wife).

After removing the entire system to feel the difference, the bubby who drove it with the system did not like my car anymore. Hence I built one for his 1979.

When I heard a knock noise from the engine I removed it, with everyone's advice I had it re-built. When I took the heads and the block to the engine builder, he commented on how clean the valves, combustion chamber, and the piston head were. Of course he asked why I took it apart, I told him about the knock. I am building a system for his Town Car.

I've re-design the system sence, the new design I just installed on my 2012 Dodge Ram 3500 with 6.7 Turbo diesel.

 

Sorry. I have no idea what this is. Something took the place of your windshield washer?

 

How are you injecting it into the carb?

 

I can't view the pics, maybe they help explain things, but from just reading the text, I have no idea what this is all about. Something about burning hydrogen in the engine?


Scott

 

Great stuff, I was looking to do something like this a few years ago but got to busy with a busy life. I hope to still try a system out some time maybe this spring/summer. What kind of mileage are you getting with the truck?
What's the cost to build this system?


Riggs.

 

Have you also found the magnetic collar around your fuel line also increased mileage?

 

Interesting.

Are you using battery/alternator voltage to split the water into H2 and O2, then burning that with your fuel?

If that's the case, it seems that you would loose some power though entropy, though there could be other benefits (e.g., cooler running, increased octane rating, cleaner burning, etc.). On the other hand, if you are recovering wasted energy through regeneration, that's bonus energy and kudos!

 

7 to 9 GPM sounds poor for any 350 Cube/300 HP engine and power train. I would think that 14 to 20 would be common with a correctly tuned engine that has good compression and 3 to 3.5 rear end ratio and 1:1 trany.

JTOL

 

I understand trying to explain this without any "show tell" material is difficult for me. I will give is my best:

The HOD uses the Electrolysis process to split water hence turning it into gas. Water in gas form acts as a catalyst (not as fuel), meaning is promotes an efficient burn during combustion cycle. The average ICE waste 10-20% of the fuel induced during combustion cycle. With hydrogen present it promotes complete burn of all the fuel. Hence, NASA reported increase in flame speed by 61% and eliminating the carbon emission by 60 persent. How it does that is: the gas will attaches itself to the fuel and air mixture. The system I’ve been installing on trucks in my area I developed using a design from the Hydrogen group I keep in contact with. Majority of the units (cell) were two stacks meaning it has two cells. Calling them cell is really not the proper term but it gravitated to the process and it remained that way since I’ve been doing this (5 years).

Anyway each plate with a Pos and a Neg is considered a cell; hence this configuration has six cell +NNNNN-. The “N” is consider bi-polar meaning they are Neg and Pos, with the charged ions going through the solution (Mixed 10% NaOH and distilled water) to and from the Neg and Pos plates splits the water from its two compositions, hydrogen and oxygen.

The system uses constant 23 amps from the batt and produced 2-2.5 Liter per Minute (LPM). The standard that was set as far as the ration per engine displacement is .5 LPM of hydrogen per 1 liter of engine displacement. Some imports requires a 1 to1 ratio (Infinity and Honda) For some reason, the system I designed producing 2-2.5 LPM has accommodated bigger engine. Up to the 7.3 liter Turbo diesel Ford has on their early to later 90’s heavy duty trucks (diesel re-acts better).

The system I built for the LT1 produced the same amount but smaller scale so it would fit. The area where the windshield washer is located, the windshield reservoir on my car is inside the front fender passenger side.

This 1972 LT1 has the 350 eng, 4bbl carb and 4 speed manual Trans and no A/C. The furthest I drive this car is 35 miles round trip (church) and to and from work, which is 10 miles round trip. So majority of the data for mileage test is stop and go traffic.

How the gas is plumbed to the carburetor is through a fitting mounted on the air cleaner from the bottom and projects it towards the primaries via a 90 degree fitting. Hence it gets sucked in like normal air.

 

I did some test drive last night and today to get the feel of any difference on the truck, normally I would see an average reading of 11.7mpg (average gauge on truck) going to and from church 35 miles round trip. With the system onboard it read 14.4 average mpg. I don't usually use that computer reading to test mileage, but it is a good sign it is doing something to this diesel.

Diesel re-acts better to this process, no electronics (Oxygen sensors and ECU) to fool due the cleaner exhuast going out.

Lately I've focused on applying it to diesel since the EPA has institute a higher standard for the diesel. Even the existing diesel to incoporate diesel particulate filter (DPF).

 

Sorry being that I am cureous about this kind of stuff, I did some reverse engineering on that theory and actually tested them. I am not smart to tell it made a difference, hence I have half doze of those magets on my toolbox to hold tools.

Unfortunately this process has taken a lot from the general public because people use it for a scam. People fell for it, it started with the "mason jar" system, just a bomb waiting to explode.

There is a lot that goes into developing a 80-90% efficient system, eliminating current leakage, to keeping the system cool to maintain the optimum operating temp of 110 degrees. Not to mention keeping the solution in proper ration of NaOH or KOH to one gallon distilled water.

So, if you are cureous and started to build one or purchase one and it did not work for you. You gave up too soon or you expected a pill of miracle for better fuel economy.

This process works, I don't have the patient to combat the general public which been feed garage about it. I build enough system on weekly basis which tells me not everyone has been contaminated by the media or "nay sayers".

 

Do you have an A/F meter attached to the exhaust stream? It sounds like you are plumbed to run an experiment that I've had in mind for years.

What happens if you take granny's oxygen cylinder and plumb it in just as you have, and slowly and continually bring up the O2 level working in small stages with jetting toward the ideal A/F mixture so you don't lean it out?

It's "granny's" "poor man's" N2O on steriods at considerably less cost and more source outlets for gas.

 

Versions of "Brown's Gas" pop up every once and awhile. They have never worked and never will work. It appears newbie2vette recognizes this with the disclaimer "...Those who don't care for this post, please let those who does [sic] read and share their inputs."

Sorry to pop your bubble but you are wasting your time. Your effort is sincere but the one who is making out like a bandit is the fellow that sold you all the material to build that Rube Goldberg contraption. Junk science and nothing more.

 

I have a question. Why should we give any credence at all, concerning something of a scientific nature, to someone who can't even form a coherent sentence? Seriously, you really lose a lot of credibility that way. JMHO.


Scott

 

Have you ever heard of "The law of conservation of energy"?

 

Is this a Brown's gas or Hydroxy set up? If it isn't what is the difference?

 

Are you saying you improved your gas mileage from 7.7 to 9.9, first you have to have a motor that is running correctly. I could get you 15 mpg or more city / hwy with my eyes closed in 10 minutes with your LT1.

I get well over 20mpg with my 600HP 427ci. I applaud you for trying these things but all data is skewed unless you have a properly running motor in the first place

I believe the guy running his car on french fry grease is outdoing you at this point

 

there is no difference (although the snake oil salesman would argue they are different). They are one and the same.

 

Are you saying you improved your gas mileage from 7.7 to 9.9, first you have to have a motor that is running correctly. I could get you 15 mpg or more city / hwy with my eyes closed in 10 minutes with your LT1.

Next time you're in Northern Cal, give me a call. 15 city would beat the holy hell out of the 9 I'm getting on my '75. I'd even give you 15 miniutes to do it in. And my motor IS running correctly.

 

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