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Hi im kinda new to the corvette world but i inherited one and for a stronger less pain in the but rear axle i was wondering what all is involved in the solid axle swap. and what is the best one to do so with i was thinking about getting a dana 60 or 70 with some 4.10s in it and getting it cut and made shorter too fit in it but i was looking and people are using the ford 9'' and a 12 bolt chevy so any thoughts would be great thanks!
Hi im kinda new to the corvette world but i inherited one and for a stronger less pain in the but rear axle i was wondering what all is involved in the solid axle swap. and what is the best one to do so with i was thinking about getting a dana 60 or 70 with some 4.10s in it and getting it cut and made shorter too fit in it but i was looking and people are using the ford 9'' and a 12 bolt chevy so any thoughts would be great thanks!
Welcome to the Forum!
How much horsepower/torque do you expect to develop? The L88 cars all had IRS. I don't recall many straight axle posts on this forum. Perhaps some of the drag racing forums might have the info you need.
Are you having some particular problems with the car now? What is the intended use of the car?
Its got a 454 ls7 crate motor and the rear diff has already been fixed once that i know of. I've never had it on the dyno but that engine came with 490 horse out of the box but i don't know the torque
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Save your sportscar...
There are a few guys here who have done so, but it's not necessary to abandon the IRS until you start making well over 1,000 HP. Yes, you should consider beefing things up, as IMOE one doesn't have to be on slicks or dumping the clutch at outrageous RPM's to break an OE 10-bolt. If you've an auto, a pro-built 10-bolt IRS diff (not talking about a standard replacement here) with HD half-shafts, yokes, spindles and solid U's ought to have you covered. For a stick I'd suggest looking into a full 12-bolt IRS diff conversion with all the goodies plus HD 1/2" lugs, if you have the funds. Half-shaft loops and other drag specific bits are available for the IRS, should you find they become required for what you're going to do with it. That said, if it's going to be a dedicated strip car, I've got a 42" (plate to plate) Mark Williams Dana 60 w/spool and FC axles you might be interested in. My $.02
Ok thanks it is a 4 speed manual and this might be a newbie question but how do i findout what diff i have already? is a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt just the number of bolts on the diff cover? I dont know too much about the corvette world i more know the cummins world lol! but i have this for a toy and want to tinker. and i was also wondering is there a difference between an axle out of a truck and an axle out of a car other than the length. and what would you want for your axle just out of curiosity
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
"10-bolt" and "12-bolt" refer to the internal ring gear carrier assembly, rather than the outer diff housing. The 12-bolt carrier is larger and sturdier than the 10-bolt, and the ring gear attaches to it with, as you might guess, 12 rather than 10 bolts. The 12-bolt will fit, but won't just bolt into the C3 housing which must be modified to accept it. This conversion can be made invisible to the naked eye, but IMCO anyone who needs it should opt for Super-HD flange yokes and other severe duty bits. On the downside, it ain't something just anyone can do, and isn't cheap. On the plus side, you can maintain the independent suspension.
You might want to study up on the C2/C3 Corvette rear suspension before you invest time and/or money into any potential changes, as they are significantly different to anything else with which you seem familiar. In any event, noting that I don't drag race my shark, here's where I'm at...
Eaton 12-bolt posi IRS diff w/31 spline Hy-Tuff side yokes, 3" GM half-shafts w/solid U's (all 4 press fit), and high-nickel HD stub axles (slip fitted & setup at 0.001” runout) w/0.5" x 3" lug studs. Other additional items include a solid diff x-member locating kit (3 point) and heim-jointed camber struts w/lock plates (no eccentrics). FWIW, while the rear suspension is out this time around, among other things I'm installing an HD diff cover, remounting the diff cross-member (w/o rubber bushings) higher in the chassis (better geometry) and gusseting the mount points, and replacing the TA bushings w/sphericals.
Not to be overlooked, an item which would improve both the longevity of your drivetrain and enhance drivability (particularly down shifts) is a lightweight flywheel, if you don't already have one. Oh, and FWIW I'd stay away from carbon fiber posi clutches.
I'll PM you on the MW Dana I have...
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Dec 27, 2011 at 04:36 PM.
ok thanks alot youve been a great help with my questions its nice to find someone that is willing to help. and yeah i know its not going to be cheap or too easy of a swap but thats ok my truck hasnt been the cheapest or simplest either and i like the challenge. when i bought my truck it was a 2wd automatic and niw ive made it a 4wd 5speed with a p-pump conversion changed the axles from 4.10s to 3.55s and did a body lift all in a year so im not a newbie at doing work just to the corvette world