hydroboost lines
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
hydroboost lines
In the middle of installing the kit and was wondering how you guys ran your lines.I'm thinking the line that gose to the control valve would run behind the ps pump and loop back under the motor mount bracket to the valve.Pictures and any better ideas on how to run it.I have a 71 small block with headers.Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Here's a couple of currently running threads where pics may exist to give you some ideas:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ing-sizes.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2942253-steering-change-over-jeep-or-borgenson.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ing-sizes.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2942253-steering-change-over-jeep-or-borgenson.html
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I got the two pressure lines ran.I ran the one going to the steering valve parallel to the pump line and then looped it back to the valve under the motor mount bracket.Seems to work pretty good.I just ran out of steam.I replaced the pump,actuating cylinder,control valve and the factory lines today.I'm getting there.Haven't got to the return line yet.I have hydrobooster mounted on the firewall.I still have to bench bleed the wilwood mastercylinder and put it on.That was a lot for one day.I'm pooped.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
Not much you can do about the return line.I installed it just like the instructions said.There's really no other way to install it.I finally got the kit installed.I bleed it yesterday.I'm going to bleed the brakes tommorw and see how it gose.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I have the hydro boost and steeroids r&p. YOU NEED to put in a seperat return in your ps pump resavor. If not in hard turns and simultaneous braking you will have problems.... I just got through modifying mine.... World of differance.... That "T" becomes restrictive in the return lines when both flow heavy, and you will feel it in both the steering and braking.... Also, I have found it nessary to mod the pump regulator to put out a higher volume of ps fluid to keep up with he flow... This is achieved by drilling out the regulator hole... It's not much... But makes a big differance.
Hope that helps.... P
Hope that helps.... P
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
YOU NEED to put in a seperat return in your ps pump resavor. If not in hard turns and simultaneous braking you will have problems.... I just got through modifying mine.... World of differance.... That "T" becomes restrictive in the return lines when both flow heavy, and you will feel it in both the steering and braking...
Hope that helps.... P
Hope that helps.... P
I do not doubt your comments at all, however, when I removed the low pressure return line from my HB I noticed the very small hole in the fitting. It's only about 1mm in diameter and must be a huge restriction in the return line. I'm amazed that having this line Teed into the single power steering return line would make that much of a difference.
I'm building my own reservoir with TWO inlets and will use both. I intend to mount it right in front of the Borgeson power steering box and run the return line from the box to the lower inlet and the return line from the HB to the higher one. I will be using -6 AN fittings and 3/8" lines for both. I believe I need to baffle the reservoir, any ideas on this?
The feed line from the reservoir to the pump (I'm using the small GM "metric" pump) will be -8 or half inch, maybe even -10. The position of the reservoir will give a straight run to the pump with minimum kinking of the feed line.
Can you tell me which of the two big fittings on the HB is the supply one?
Thanks in advance.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
This is the resevior I'm planning to use. It came with one nipple inlet, so I added the second one and converted the nipple to AN. Kind funny looking I think.
Last edited by RobbSalzmann; Jan 18, 2012 at 06:22 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Paul,
I do not doubt your comments at all, however, when I removed the low pressure return line from my HB I noticed the very small hole in the fitting. It's only about 1mm in diameter and must be a huge restriction in the return line. I'm amazed that having this line Teed into the single power steering return line would make that much of a difference.
I'm building my own reservoir with TWO inlets and will use both. I intend to mount it right in front of the Borgeson power steering box and run the return line from the box to the lower inlet and the return line from the HB to the higher one. I will be using -6 AN fittings and 3/8" lines for both. I believe I need to baffle the reservoir, any ideas on this?
The feed line from the reservoir to the pump (I'm using the small GM "metric" pump) will be -8 or half inch, maybe even -10. The position of the reservoir will give a straight run to the pump with minimum kinking of the feed line.
Can you tell me which of the two big fittings on the HB is the supply one?
Thanks in advance.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
I do not doubt your comments at all, however, when I removed the low pressure return line from my HB I noticed the very small hole in the fitting. It's only about 1mm in diameter and must be a huge restriction in the return line. I'm amazed that having this line Teed into the single power steering return line would make that much of a difference.
I'm building my own reservoir with TWO inlets and will use both. I intend to mount it right in front of the Borgeson power steering box and run the return line from the box to the lower inlet and the return line from the HB to the higher one. I will be using -6 AN fittings and 3/8" lines for both. I believe I need to baffle the reservoir, any ideas on this?
The feed line from the reservoir to the pump (I'm using the small GM "metric" pump) will be -8 or half inch, maybe even -10. The position of the reservoir will give a straight run to the pump with minimum kinking of the feed line.
Can you tell me which of the two big fittings on the HB is the supply one?
Thanks in advance.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
:flag :
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Thanks guys.
'75,
That's exactly what I was after, thank you. I'd love to fit all braided stainless hoses, but will stick with the stock rubber lines at this stage - I just want to get it back on the road. A good friend Chris works for Hydraulink, and will help me out with the fittings and will assist with getting all of the correct ends fitted to the hoses. I will re-use the year old Borgeson hoses that are connected to the steering box, but will have the other ends fitted with AN fittings for connecting to the HB and the fluid reservoir.
Robb Salzmann,
I have concerns about your fluid reservoir. Jim Shea told me on this Forum that the fluid return lines should enter the reservoir down low, under the fluid level. He said that this will minimise aeration of the fluid. I'd seek his counsel before proceeding with this system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
That's exactly what I was after, thank you. I'd love to fit all braided stainless hoses, but will stick with the stock rubber lines at this stage - I just want to get it back on the road. A good friend Chris works for Hydraulink, and will help me out with the fittings and will assist with getting all of the correct ends fitted to the hoses. I will re-use the year old Borgeson hoses that are connected to the steering box, but will have the other ends fitted with AN fittings for connecting to the HB and the fluid reservoir.
Robb Salzmann,
I have concerns about your fluid reservoir. Jim Shea told me on this Forum that the fluid return lines should enter the reservoir down low, under the fluid level. He said that this will minimise aeration of the fluid. I'd seek his counsel before proceeding with this system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I have the hydro boost and steeroids r&p. YOU NEED to put in a seperat return in your ps pump resavor. If not in hard turns and simultaneous braking you will have problems.... I just got through modifying mine.... World of differance.... That "T" becomes restrictive in the return lines when both flow heavy, and you will feel it in both the steering and braking.... Also, I have found it nessary to mod the pump regulator to put out a higher volume of ps fluid to keep up with he flow... This is achieved by drilling out the regulator hole... It's not much... But makes a big differance.
Hope that helps.... P
Hope that helps.... P
never an issue...the addition of extra returns to the res is a time waster AFAIK....
NOW, I am using a '88 vette pump with '72 vette valving on the output...and so the plastic res. is just below the master cyl on the frame but WAS on the A arm cross support...
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I NOT commenting about racing use, but the above is rong....I have run HB for over 5 years of quick daily driving with my own rack install that is 10 years old now...and have a 3/8 T in the return line...
never an issue...the addition of extra returns to the res is a time waster AFAIK....
NOW, I am using a '88 vette pump with '72 vette valving on the output...and so the plastic res. is just below the master cyl on the frame but WAS on the A arm cross support...
never an issue...the addition of extra returns to the res is a time waster AFAIK....
NOW, I am using a '88 vette pump with '72 vette valving on the output...and so the plastic res. is just below the master cyl on the frame but WAS on the A arm cross support...
.... I do race at willow springs "streets of willow".....and yes, in hard on the brakes and hard on the steering.... so i want everything i can get...
thus...if your taking time to do a job, try your best to do the job right the first time....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I bleed the wilwood mastercylinder and brake calibers today.All my headaches went away.I had too much pedal travel with the brand new vaccum booster and factory new mastercylinder.Never could get proper pedal travel.It would go to within and inch of the floor and it would be a fairly hard pedal.You could lock up the brakes but it was a little un nerving to say the least.Locks up the brakes with less than an inch of pedal travel.Best money I ever spent.At least I can drive it now without worrying about if I'm going to stop or not.Haven't noticed anything about performance when brakeing in a turn yet.It seems to work fine considering I havent put the suggested 500 miles on it yet.Just around the block.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
I don't know that mine are run better but I'm happy to share what I did. Referencing the graphic from Robb's post #8 above as my model at the time, also, I have the low pressure hose run adjacent to the braided high pressure lines down to a 3/8" brass T. The low pressure hose drops over the top of the driver side motor mount into the tee.
FWIW: have never experienced any loss of braking or steering performance driving over 15K miles with occasional, spirited exhibitions.
Excusing the grime, I happened to take these images just a few days ago:
Looking down, from behind the firewall: I used 2 hose clamps for the braided lines, otherwise, they are laying where I strung them.
Hope that helps anyone who may consider using a HB. Love mine.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
Thanks for the info.Right now I ran the return next to the pressure lines.They curve close the the rear upper a frame bushing and then go straight down to the back of the pump.So far so good.Nice to finally have a,hard pedal without the excessive travel.I have been fighting with this thing off and on for over a year.With the factory calibers and booster I always had way too much travel before the brakes locked up.Not to mention all that brake bleeding and it never got better.It took 20 minutes to bleed the brakes after I installed the hydroboost and the new wilwood mastercylinder.I can't put into words just how frustrating it was.Now I can move onto other things I wanted to do to the car.
Last edited by rugerm44; Jan 20, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 27
From: Florida
I would always want as much "headroom" in my vetts abilities as possible. Where I first got this information was from a tech at Steeroids. Hey said it is not always required but will fix the problem if it arises. So, if you are happy with what you got....
I do race at willow springs "streets of willow".....and yes, in hard on the brakes and hard on the steering.... so i want everything i can get...
thus...if your taking time to do a job, try your best to do the job right the first time....
.... I do race at willow springs "streets of willow".....and yes, in hard on the brakes and hard on the steering.... so i want everything i can get...
thus...if your taking time to do a job, try your best to do the job right the first time....
Keep in mind that the brakes are usually applied when the engine and steering pump are at the lowest rpm.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I have a GMC 1 ton with factory hydraboost and it has the 2 factory return lines into the pump reservoir (posted pics here before) and there are times when the brakes are applied that the steering becomes very jerky, not often but it does happen. Gm had 2 lines for a reason.
Keep in mind that the brakes are usually applied when the engine and steering pump are at the lowest rpm.
Keep in mind that the brakes are usually applied when the engine and steering pump are at the lowest rpm.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Robb Salzmann,
I have concerns about your fluid reservoir. Jim Shea told me on this Forum that the fluid return lines should enter the reservoir down low, under the fluid level. He said that this will minimise aeration of the fluid. I'd seek his counsel before proceeding with this system.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Robb
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,672
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Just to add a little to the posts above, I plumbed mine very much like Dustup did, but I don't have the Flaming River U-joint in my steering linkage. I still have my stock rag joint. The rubber return line comes AWFULLY close to the joint and I've never been happy with it. I would recommend the right angle fitting that '75 posted in his pic above.