73 qjet divorced choke install problem
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 1
From: PA
73 qjet divorced choke install problem
Rebuilding a qjet for the first time. Unfortunately I did not document the assembly before I tore it down for cleaning ( I actually assumed cliffs book would have detailed pics and info of this). Anyway I was hoping to maybe get a good pic of the parts installed correctly on a divorced choke setup and maybe some advice on how to get the link for the choke rod on the choke shaft that goes through the carb mainbody. 
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 490
Likes: 5
From: Tampa Bay Area, U.S.A. (Zombie Nation)
That small linkage rod that's located inside a cavity in the side of the carburetor is tough to get back in place. I have no picture of it but can tell you from many Q-jet rebuilds since 1973 that it will only install one way. I use a pair of tweezers or small needle nose pliers to tinker with it until it fits. If it fits (installs), it's correct.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
That is the 'tricky' part of Q-jet assembly. You have to hold the choke plate linkage rod and the bell-crank link in place while you install the complete choke assembly on the side of the carb. That link going to the secondary air-valve has to be engaged (both ends) while you are readying that assembly for installation.
I use a 2-3" piece of duct tape to hold the choke plate link and bell-crank together in the proper attitude. Then I poke it down into that passage so that the hole in that crank arm is lined up with the opening in the carb body. The upper part of that duct tape can then be rubbed down onto the carb body to hold it there.
Now, you just need to position the choke assembly...with the mounting screw already in its hole...over the manifold vacuum port tube (if your carb has one) and engage the choke shaft with that bell-crank. When you get that assembly almost in place is when you install the secondary lock-out link onto its 'post', then put choke assembly in final position and tighten the mounting screw down. If all went well, moving the choke assembly/cam arm will cause the choke flap to operate, also.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't forget to pull out the duct tape when you get done.
I use a 2-3" piece of duct tape to hold the choke plate link and bell-crank together in the proper attitude. Then I poke it down into that passage so that the hole in that crank arm is lined up with the opening in the carb body. The upper part of that duct tape can then be rubbed down onto the carb body to hold it there.
Now, you just need to position the choke assembly...with the mounting screw already in its hole...over the manifold vacuum port tube (if your carb has one) and engage the choke shaft with that bell-crank. When you get that assembly almost in place is when you install the secondary lock-out link onto its 'post', then put choke assembly in final position and tighten the mounting screw down. If all went well, moving the choke assembly/cam arm will cause the choke flap to operate, also.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't forget to pull out the duct tape when you get done.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1,552
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Here's a picture of how to line up the choke part.
Did you figure out how the parts that attach to that lever go?
Did you figure out how the parts that attach to that lever go?
