ok--i have a 308--- :seeya

 

The gears are kind of self explanatory. The ring gear is the one that turns on the same plane as the tires. The pinion is the one that the trans to rearend drive shaft connects to.

As for the gear I suggest. I think either of these engines will be torquey enough to go a little higher on the gear in order to retain a little highway tolerability. I would go with the 3.55....unless you almost never take it on sustained 65 or 70 mph drives. There is a trade off. For everything you gain on the low end, you will lose on the top end. If you almost always drive around town at 55-60 or below, I would go with the 3.70.

dl

 

Those charts are evidently computer generated.
When you start changing things you become the chief engineer/designer.
You also need a trans. cooler for the converter.

Your current Engine operating rpm range starts at idle.
3000 IS NOT HIGH RPM that is basically just in the beginning of the operating range of those engines.

You need to state what your design para. are. For ex. would you like 427-435 HP performance, gas milage,..

 

Hey Erika,

I am still looking over these engine choices. I can't get past the fact that when taking what you are after either of these engines is complete and utter OVERKILL. You are going to end up spending a bunch of money and the end result is going to be way more than what you have stated that you want out of this car. I stated earlier that everything with performance mods is a trade off. You have to be very specific and true to yourself when defining what you want because the more radical you go, the less streetable it will be....PERIOD. Now I am going to do what you asked us not to do.....I would really suggest a ZZ4. There is a reason why all the guys on this board think so much of these engines. They are great turn key engines at an affordable price and come with a warranty. Can't beat that. And that engine will be such a step up from what you currently have that you will think you have a big block under the hood.

I just don't want to see you get into this and spend a lot of money and the car end up not being what you envisioned.

Just remember I am trying to help. :yesnod:

dl

 

Some other things to consider are what is your ex. going to be, A/C ?, how much highway driving?

 

Erika, I just checked http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?0=239&1=241&3=948 and they have a 383 crate engine making 415 ft/lbs and 325 hp. I think this is a better choice for your application and you wouldn't need a stall and while you would still benefit from a lower gear, it wouldn't be critical.

Just food for thought. Oh, and the price is under $3,800.

dl

 

you guys talked me into keeping my heater, and putting my fan shroud back on, but i will not have a/c. most of my driving is going to be around town, but i do travel 25 miles each way on the highway to work. i really don't care about gas mileage--i still have my jeep and taurus. i know this is a toy, and i'm excited about it, maybe to excited, but i want a monster. okay, lets say i went with the 3:55 gears, and a 2000-2400 stall, would i be able to drive in city traffic, get some highway, and still beat most anything in reason out there?--also the impossible question, keep mostly reliable?

 

Erika,

If we can't talk you out of the radical setup, here's what I would change from stock to accomodate either of these engines:

1. 2500 stall
2. 3.55 gear at least
3. 1.75" primary headers
4. At least 2.5" exhaust with low restriction mufflers
5. Stock cooling system with dual electric fans thermostatically controlled
6. Trans cooler needed with a stall converter
7. Replace all u-joints with heavy duty with no zerk fitting provision
8. Upgrade ignition -- hotter coil, good wires, etc.

I'm sure I am forgetting something but maybe Ganey or others will chime in.

As I said before, when making a siginificant engine upgrade, there are a lot of things that have to be addressed to improve longevity and performance. It's a total package with everything working in unison. There is more to it than just dropping a new engine in. As for reliability, it won't be as reliable as stock. A performance setup never is. It is just inherently harder on parts. ALL parts. Not just engine parts. The rear suspension of your car needs to be up to the task of handling significantly more torque.

Just don't want you to bite off more than you can chew with this. Hate to beat the dead horse but go with a less radical setup and many of these mods are unnecessary and/or could be done over time.

I am only trying to help you and believe me, I once built a "street" car that I found out after it was done and had a ton of money in that I couldn't drive it on the street. It burned a gallon of gas in 6 minutes idling while I was setting the timing and adjusting the carb. The car ran great!!!!! I ended up getting it into the very high 10s in the quarter and I absolutely couldn't drive it on the street. Couldn't even drive it to the track. So take it from somebody who knows first hand.

I'll continue to monitor this post so let me know what you decide. If you decide on the radical approach, I'll try to answer any other questions you have. :D

dl

 

ok--i have the whole rear suspension out--except for my TA's (a little rusty, but solid). i was gonna put on the 7 leaf spring and some decent shocks.--i plan on the hooker header/sidepipe set up--i wasn't really planning on running electric fans--already have a trans cooler in the car--planned on a torque converter already, really the only unanticipated change is the gears. would i be more sensable with the 383/410 engine?--www.allchevyengines.com

 

I think a prime example of overkill on the street was our forum buddy 73-454. Granted it was a BBC, but it was totally "unstreetable" and required a lot of work to tame it down so it could be enjoyed. All of the posts and info are right. The point being missed is $$. Horse power costs dollars and it cost more big buck to support the engine. Like ---- trans, torque converter, driveshaft, rear end and suspension.

Erika - set a realistic budget for an engine say $3500 and then add $1200 or so for trans work for a monster, 250 for a converter and $1000 for the rear end.

 

It would be wise to go with the 383 because: 1st, its a 4 bolt, 2nd, you'll have access to more parts for it than the 406. 3rd, has better parts in it (eg, like those 2.05" valves, and aluminum heads)
Paul:cool:

 

I think what your saying is you want a car that is fast, at a stop sign you want to be able to rock in roll if challanged by a Mustang or Camero or you just want to hammer it and go fast.

What we are trying to say is your car won't be all that fast at the take off but will really rock and roll once it gets going. However on the street many times the race is over before you'll get into your power band. Plus you might not be able to spin your tires from a take off :cry.

So as mentioned earlier you will have do all the little tricks, (stall, etc..) to make it bad off the line.

If you get the proper set up then I wouldn't be scared to put in the bigger HP motor. We are just trying to give you a heads up so you won't be dissapointed but verrry happy and know what to expect.

 

Yes, expect you would be much happier in the long run. It's great that you want to increase power & get your car running like a CORVETTE ! FOR THAT!
We would like you to be happy w/ it as well. There are inside jokes that start "You know you went to far when..." Your future topics on that is what we are trying to avoid. We would like you to be happy w/ it.

:cheers: