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Yes, you need to remove the half-shafts from the car, and remove the drive shaft from the diff pinion yoke. I think you can use your ATV jack; I would re-install the strut rod bracket, and put 1/2" bolts through the cam-bolt holes and use those to strap the diff to the jack. In my case, I made a wooden cradle and bolted it to my small trolley jack:
then bolted the strut rod bracket to the wooden cradle. Once I got the diff crossmember free (have fun with that) I just wheeled the diff & crossmember together out to the driveway for a power wash before rebuilding. I imagine you could do the same with your ATV jack without having to mess with making a cradle.
Yes, you need to remove the half-shafts from the car, and remove the drive shaft from the diff pinion yoke. I think you can use your ATV jack; I would re-install the strut rod bracket, and put 1/2" bolts through the cam-bolt holes and use those to strap the diff to the jack. In my case, I made a wooden cradle and bolted it to my small trolley jack:
then bolted the strut rod bracket to the wooden cradle. Once I got the diff crossmember free (have fun with that) I just wheeled the diff & crossmember together out to the driveway for a power wash before rebuilding. I imagine you could do the same with your ATV jack without having to mess with making a cradle.
That is exactly what I was looking for. From your picture & description, it makes me think the diff will want to shift rearward when freed. Strut rod bracket back on will help keep it from shifting left or right.
Thanks!!!
On a non-related side note, I just started the engine to see what it would sound like without the rear Y pipe. Wow!
Remove all the shafts (drive and halfs) You should be able to do them at the diff. (I was pulling the TA's so I removed the half's from the spindle end first)
Loosed off the front mount, then I placed the jack w/block under the diff and didn't quite touch (maybe 1/2 clear)
Removed the front mount
The rear can't really pivot back much if at all. Those mounts go down into the pocket a fair distance so they will prevent it from tipping much, but you need to try to get them to come straight down, but if all the weight is trying to pivot it's not helping...catch 22...
loosened off the two bolts in the upper cross-member (where they go into that sombrero mount thing)
Placed two larger chisels on each side of the mount (flange was already bent before, BBH?)
Drove them in (went easy really) and when it "popped" I did the other side.
Brought the jack up to take the weight, removed the two bolts completely and lowered the diff w/crossemember
There are 2 bolts holding the diff onto the bottom of the crossmember; they are barely accessible through a clearance hole in the top of the crossmember. If you just remove those you can get the diff out without removing the crossmember, which can be a PITA.
There are 2 bolts holding the diff onto the bottom of the crossmember; they are barely accessible through a clearance hole in the top of the crossmember. If you just remove those you can get the diff out without removing the crossmember, which can be a PITA.
I just did this last week actually. The crossmember was a bit of a PITA. I had to use a 3 jaw puller at the sombreros to get it to break free. Then just a floor jack and some careful lowering to get it down. The real PITA though is the 1500 bucks the diff shop quoted me to replace everything.
Yea the crush sleeve got, well... crushed. So the pinion gear hit the posi carrier pretty good. I needed new gears, along with posi clutches and a case, so I told him just replace it all so I hopefully never have to drop that beast again. That also includes installing new U-joints and balancing my half shafts plus all the seals and bearings. Adds up quickly.