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I've read all the threads I can find on removing the control valve. The consensus seems to be either a pitman arm puller, a smack with a hammer, or a pickle fork. I was a little suprised to see how tight it is under there though. I don't see how you could get leverage to swing a hammer, or even to get the puller on the pitman arm without hitting the frame. Any suggestions?
I used a hammer to remove mine, pounded on the side of the pitman arm. It took probably 50 whacks with a 3 pound sledge. It was very difficult to get in there and I even have the motor out. I also used a torch and penetrating lube in between hits, not a fun job.
Go to auto zone and rent a puller. It will fit on the pitman arm and pull it off without damaging anything in your steering box. I know this because I used this puller 2 days ago to drop mine:
save the hammer for the vise work.i will not use a picklefork either.i agree with pancake on the removal of the pitman arm from the steering box.then drop the whole steering linkage and replace what's worn.remember 2 kits to completely rebuild it.
I found the perfect solution. I went to Harbor Freight and found a puller labelled for ball joints. Rather than the usual 2 or 3 hook style puller, it consists of a plate with a slot that slides in between the idler arm and valve, and a lever that goes extends over the contol valve stud. A bolt threads in from the bottom. Tighten the bolt and it pops apart with a bang. $20! Awesome! Here's a link: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
just did this and it was a PIA. There is no way to get any leverage to wack the pitman arm, and there is to much space between the valve and the pitman arm to use a pickle fork. I ended up putting a crow bar on top of the valve stud with the bolt on to protect the thread and beating the crow bar in the wheel well so I could get some leverage.
The tool that is mentioned above looks like it would work -- wish I knew about it before I did the job
The secret to using a hammer is to use TWO hammers or even a hammer and an axe! You need to rest the second hammer or axe head against one side of the Pitman arm adjacent to the control valve stud and whack the side 180 degrees away with the first hammer.
This action "shocks" the Pitman arm and causes it to let go of the stud and it should just fall out, providing you've removed the nut on the end.
The secret to using a hammer is to use TWO hammers or even a hammer and an axe! You need to rest the second hammer or axe head against one side of the Pitman arm adjacent to the control valve stud and whack the side 180 degrees away with the first hammer.
This action "shocks" the Pitman arm and causes it to let go of the stud and it should just fall out, providing you've removed the nut on the end.
Try it, and come back to me if it doesn't work.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Thanks for the tip, that's the method I have been using for years. I use my 18 ounce claw hammer on the backside and my 3lb mini sledge to hit the other side. I will agree, usually it take 2-3 hits and the tie rod falls right out. It was not working on this one. After soaking it with PB blaster and a little heat it popped out after a couple hits. Its just hard getting to it, even with the motor out of the vehicle.
I just broke one of those china made tie rod pullers taking mine off.I bought a good one.Took all of 5 minutes to remove it.You go to harbour freight get two.One to throw away.It wont take a lot of pressure.
Go to auto zone and rent a puller. It will fit on the pitman arm and pull it off without damaging anything in your steering box. I know this because I used this puller 2 days ago to drop mine:
I found the perfect solution. I went to Harbor Freight and found a puller labelled for ball joints. Rather than the usual 2 or 3 hook style puller, it consists of a plate with a slot that slides in between the idler arm and valve, and a lever that goes extends over the contol valve stud. A bolt threads in from the bottom. Tighten the bolt and it pops apart with a bang. $20! Awesome! Here's a link: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
I replaced my valve today. After a lot of frustration, trying different things, I looked on the forum here and saw Ted's solution above. Luckily Harbor Freight is open here on Sunday. The tool worked perfectly!!
save the hammer for the vise work.i will not use a picklefork either.i agree with pancake on the removal of the pitman arm from the steering box.then drop the whole steering linkage and replace what's worn.remember 2 kits to completely rebuild it.
i started with a pitman puller, didn't work, not enough clearance to get the best angle, kept slipping off.
escalated to pickleforks, destroying the seal of course no turning back, but surprisingly no joy, not enough room under the car to really swing the sledge hammer with all the fury of Thor while lying sideways.
escalated to air hammer with picklefork attachment, came off in 2 seconds. if that hadn't worked, wasn't sure what the next level of escalation would be...
oh well. will have to try that HF 99849 tool next time.
incidentally, i did run into that "buy 2 pullers throw 1 away" scenario, exactly. this was with the residual "good" puller.
i was replacing the PS control valve with a manual steering adapter.
Billcarson meant that not all rebuild kits are complete. From most suppliers, you must order one kit which contains the seals and another which contains the ball stud, etc. Both are necessary to do a "complete" rebuild of the valve. Additionally, often on reassembly, one will damage the new seals. You may want to get two seal kits to cover this contingency.
Carter
another option that I'll throw out for general reference is a pickle fork on your air hammer.... gets into tight spaces, and works really well at knocking joints apart.
The Harbor freight ball joint seperator worked great, no issues. I took me a few tries to find a good spot. I settled with moving the wheels all the way over to the right. It took no time at all to get it off.
Not sure why everyone says remove the pitman arm , unless i am misunderstanding what everyone is saying .
Get yourself a quality ball joint splitter, not a pickle fork ,put it on the ball joint where the valve is joined to the pitman arm , tighten the long bolt and it should break the joint . If it gets really hard to turn the bolt and you feel its going to break or damage something leave it under tension and just give the side of the pitman arm a good blow with a hammer , the shock should break the joint .
Dont forget the way your hoses came off , its important . Unscrew the valve from the steering shaft , fit a new kit , grease the joint and re-fit . Dont forget to centre the valve once you have the engine running and have bled the power steering .
See Jim Shea's thread on power steering , follow his way of doing the job correctly and you wont have any problems at all .