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Bee Jay's light weight master cylinder brake mod

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Old 01-17-2012, 04:23 PM
  #81  
scottyp99
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
I drove the car to work today. It's all good. Good solid, firm brakes. Maybe because I bled the heck out of the system. It deffinitely takes just a little more effort, but these brakes are solid. On to the next episode.
Bee Jay
PS. The MC reservoir is up against the vent screen, or would be up against the fiberglass of the hood, but the reservoir mount is very flexible and no worries. I will try to locate C4 style reservoirs.
Lots more work than I anticipated, but hey, seven pounds is seven pounds.
I could lay off the cheeseburgers for a month and save 7 lbs., but it wouldn't look as cool under the hood!


Scott
Old 01-17-2012, 04:38 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
I could lay off the cheeseburgers for a month and save 7 lbs., but it wouldn't look as cool under the hood!


Scott
I was taking a tour of Tony Stewart's race shop last year. The company I work for is one of his primary sponsors. The shop foreman was talking about how hard they work to save weight. Then Tony walked in and stood right next to me. My first thought was that if he just laid off the junk food they could save 10 lbs. He had quite the beer belly.
Old 01-18-2012, 12:55 AM
  #83  
Bee Jay
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I just crossed Harris Grade, my favorite mountain pass.
Hot Damn! Great brakes. Good firm feel, excellent modulation, stops on a dime and chips change.
285 tires up front, 295 tires out back, wilwood calipers, hydraboost, and 1.250" bore lightweight master cylinder. Great brakes.
Bee Jay
Old 01-18-2012, 02:42 AM
  #84  
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Great to hear its all working Bee Jay!

Whats next on the weight saving regime?

You have a PM!
Old 01-18-2012, 06:52 AM
  #85  
aussiejohn
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Default Congratulations!

Originally Posted by Bee Jay
I just crossed Harris Grade, my favorite mountain pass.
Hot Damn! Great brakes. Good firm feel, excellent modulation, stops on a dime and chips change.
285 tires up front, 295 tires out back, wilwood calipers, hydraboost, and 1.250" bore lightweight master cylinder. Great brakes.
Bee Jay
Bee Jay,

That must be a great feeling. I'm still plodding along with my Hydroboost/Borgeson/GM metric pump set up, while still putting in a day's work at my full time job. Just pulled out the old cast iron MC tonight, bolted up the Holden aluminum MC to the HB with a spacer/adapter and am about to order the AN fittings for the whole set-up.

I spent some time on the pedal assembly, which is out of the car. The rubber bump stop for the brake pedal was missing, and I need one to set the "at rest" position for the pedal. Hopefully I can find one tomorrow, if not, I'll have to adapt a Holden (or other) one. As the HB provides such rapid braking, I want the stop lights to come on before the brakes start to grab, so I'm playing with the position of the stop light switch to get it right.

Luckily I have a spare Corvette firewall, and will use that to mock everything up before I fit the pedal assembly and HB/MC to the car. I don't want to pull anything out again!

Re the Hydroboost, I just want to make sure that the inlet port is parallel to the low pressure return line, the high pressure return line (to the steering box) is around 90 degrees anti-clockwise looking at the front of the HB unit. Is that right?

Thanks for the inspiration, you've done a great job.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
Old 01-18-2012, 08:07 AM
  #86  
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Great, you should have phenomenal brake feel with that setup.

How much free pedal and how much reserve pedal do you have now?
Old 01-18-2012, 10:38 AM
  #87  
Bee Jay
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Originally Posted by jotto
Great to hear its all working Bee Jay!

Whats next on the weight saving regime?

You have a PM!
15lb battery and aluminum radiator. I think there is a radiator group buy on now.
Bee Jay
Old 01-18-2012, 02:22 PM
  #88  
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Curious, Bee Jay, are you looking at a Braille battery?

Oh, and don't forget the SpeedGlass.
Old 01-19-2012, 12:18 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by noonie
Great, you should have phenomenal brake feel with that setup.

How much free pedal and how much reserve pedal do you have now?
The pedal is super hard. The difference between no brakes to panic stop is less than 1" of pedal travel, leaving a good 2" above the floor.
Bee Jay
Old 01-19-2012, 01:02 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Curious, Bee Jay, are you looking at a Braille battery?

Oh, and don't forget the SpeedGlass.
The same people that makes the Braille batteries also makes the Deka batteries. I'm looking at the AGM Deka ETX20L. Amazon has them for $85. Weighs 15lbs.
Bee Jay

Last edited by Bee Jay; 01-19-2012 at 01:08 AM.
Old 01-19-2012, 05:53 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Curious, Bee Jay, are you looking at a Braille battery?

Oh, and don't forget the SpeedGlass.
How can you look at a braille battery? Ba-dump, bump! Thank you, thank you, I'll be here all week.....try the veal!!!!!

Optima has a D51 battery that's pretty light, kinda pricey, though.


Scott
Old 01-19-2012, 07:06 PM
  #92  
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We are getting seriously sidetracked here, but I think the thread has run it's course anyway, at least until BeeJay gets his C4 MC reservoirs and lets us know how they fit, so I would like to ask what the deal is with this battery, AGM Deka ETX20L. I have looked at it online, it's basically a motorcycle battery. Would a battery like this be practical in a daily driver that never really sees very cold weather? Maybe 40* F at the coldest? Also, I never play the radio or anything like that with the car not running. It weighs 15.5 lbs., and a regular battery for my '80 'vette weighs between 32 and 39 lbs., so this would mean a weight savings of at least 16 lbs., which would be nice, but would it be practical? Thanks,


Scott
Old 01-19-2012, 08:07 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
We are getting seriously sidetracked here, but I think the thread has run it's course anyway, at least until BeeJay gets his C4 MC reservoirs and lets us know how they fit, so I would like to ask what the deal is with this battery, AGM Deka ETX20L. I have looked at it online, it's basically a motorcycle battery. Would a battery like this be practical in a daily driver that never really sees very cold weather? Maybe 40* F at the coldest? Also, I never play the radio or anything like that with the car not running. It weighs 15.5 lbs., and a regular battery for my '80 'vette weighs between 32 and 39 lbs., so this would mean a weight savings of at least 16 lbs., which would be nice, but would it be practical? Thanks,


Scott
Stay tuned.
Unless I go for the radiator first.
Bee Jay
Old 01-20-2012, 01:49 AM
  #94  
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Aussie John, what MC were you planning on using? All the holden ones seem to be 1 inch bore.

Bee Jay has shown the M2904/hb combo just clears the hood, but I'm wondering how close the M2903/booster combo will go once it's bolted in place.

My MC is out at the moment and needs to be rebuilt/replaced so this may be a very good option. Getting a new line made up slightly longer is no biggie as my mate works at Aussie brakes.
Old 01-20-2012, 03:58 AM
  #95  
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Default G'day

Scott,

PM sent. BTW, I have a brand new Corvette MC sitting on the shelf if you want one. Let me know.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
Old 01-20-2012, 02:08 PM
  #96  
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Would this work for a manual brake m.c. ?


Part Number: NMC M2903

Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Master Cylinders

Attributes:
# of Line Ports : 2

Brake Master Cylinder Bore Size : 1.125"

Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size : 1/2"-20, 9/16"-18

Finish : Rust-Preventative Finish
Old 01-20-2012, 03:34 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by 73C34me
Would this work for a manual brake m.c. ?


Part Number: NMC M2903

Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Master Cylinders

Attributes:
# of Line Ports : 2

Brake Master Cylinder Bore Size : 1.125"

Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size : 1/2"-20, 9/16"-18

Finish : Rust-Preventative Finish
You can make them work physically, but the bore is too large for manual brakes. You would need far to much pedal pressure. Stock is 1" dia. C5 masters are 1", but pricey, there are others that will bolt up and less expensive. An S10 comes to mind if memory serves me. Look it up.

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Old 01-20-2012, 06:23 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by noonie
You can make them work physically, but the bore is too large for manual brakes. You would need far to much pedal pressure. Stock is 1" dia. C5 masters are 1", but pricey, there are others that will bolt up and less expensive. An S10 comes to mind if memory serves me. Look it up.
Good grief, noonie, what's with your reluctance to accept that C5 master cylinders can be found cheap? (Post #45) Look it up.
Old 02-27-2012, 02:48 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by jotto
Great info as ever Bee jay,

Quick question. Whilst checking Napa online I see they list a 2nd MC for the 3/4 ton chevy2500 with hydroboost, part # NMC M3235

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...RecType%3aA%29

Wondering what the difference is between this and the 2904, as the 2904 isnt listed for that application. Was thinking if it was a little smaller, it may help with the hood clearance?

Other than the price. This appears to be the only noted difference (note the 2k LB difference). Curious what that measurement relates to?

M3225:
GM Code JD5 (Dual Power Brakes, 6,400 LB., Hydro-Boost)
Option Codes are Located on the "GM Service Parts Identification" Sticker

M2904:
GM Code JD7 (Hydraulic Power Brakes, 8,400 LB., Hydro-Boost)
Option Codes are Located on the "GM Service Parts Identification" Sticker

And yet another request for complete clarification - these will accept the existing brake lines/connections???

Thanks.
Old 11-01-2015, 10:48 PM
  #100  
vetterestore
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I am restoring a 1976 C3 and the brake system does not work. I would like to replace both the booster and MC to a hydro-boost setup.
What is the perfect donor for this? A firm pedal is what is needed. I have never had great luck with old 70's GM brake systems especially 4 wheel disc. Poor rebuilt calipers and mushy brakes with lots of pedal travel as an end result. This solution sounds ideal as I have no time to be pissin about. I have heard thru the grapevine that late 80s to 2000 combinations should work but no confirmation or info about hood clearances or necessary modifications....
Anyone here know?
Originally Posted by mrvette
The advantage is that is works, it actually stops the car, even with DOT5 fluid, like I have, and O ring SS calipers

so yes, the conversion is worth it, BUT if you have a overbore master cyl on now, get set to go through the windshield as your shark tips over it's nose and you land on your head, end over end....

yes, Virginia, the pedal change is that great....

I use a Pirate Jack racing m/cyl on my car for years now with the HB setup, stock bore dia, and it stops every time, nice pedal feel too, none of the 4' of travel and wonder if I can stop before the firewall feeling anymore....

I have posted in so many threads about the internal structure of the stock vac booster as having a design flaw, a spring between the input and output shafts, there is NO such spring in a HB unit....



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