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I used the Auto Zone rental tool. I also used a soft nylon rope to hold up the valves while changing springs and valve guide seals. Remove spark plug, tie large knot on one end of rope to prevent loss into hole, insert rope into plug hole, rotate engine to bring piston to top of bore. When rope is inserted, enging will "lock up". This is normal. Apply tool to spring and after compressing spring tap on top of tool to break loose retainer and locks. Plug holes in head to prevent locks from dropping into engine. This tool allows you to compress spring enough to replace seals. If valve drops too much, back off on rotation of engine, reposition rope, rotate piston to top of stroke and ck. valve drop. Good luck with it, mike...
I used the Auto Zone rental tool. I also used a soft nylon rope to hold up the valves while changing springs and valve guide seals. Remove spark plug, tie large knot on one end of rope to prevent loss into hole, insert rope into plug hole, rotate engine to bring piston to top of bore. When rope is inserted, enging will "lock up". This is normal. Apply tool to spring and after compressing spring tap on top of tool to break loose retainer and locks. Plug holes in head to prevent locks from dropping into engine. This tool allows you to compress spring enough to replace seals. If valve drops too much, back off on rotation of engine, reposition rope, rotate piston to top of stroke and ck. valve drop. Good luck with it, mike...
Sounds rough.
When changing springs and what not with the heads on,I always rotate the cylinder I'm at ,down to, or close to BDC.Back off the rockers so the valves will close .Screw an adapter for an air hose in the sparkplug hole and load the cylinder with compressed air. Be carefull not to have your fingers or other body parts around belts and pulleys cause if your not completely at BDC the motor will turn somewhat.Leave the air hooked up and flowing till your done.
The tool is fine.You need to ask about the adapter.Sure if they have the tool at Autozone ,they have the adapter as well.
Sounds rough.
When changing springs and what not with the heads on,I always rotate the cylinder I'm at ,down to, or close to BDC.Back off the rockers so the valves will close .Screw an adapter for an air hose in the sparkplug hole and load the cylinder with compressed air. Be carefull not to have your fingers or other body parts around belts and pulleys cause if your not completely at BDC the motor will turn somewhat.
The tool is fine.You need to ask about the adapter.Sure if they have the tool at Autozone ,they have the adapter as well.
Not too bad. With piston at BDC what happens if valve drops while spring removed? I found it easy to use the rope. My fingers were raw from turning the compressor however. Just giving ideas. mike...
Not too bad. With piston at BDC what happens if valve drops while spring removed? I found it easy to use the rope. My fingers were raw from turning the compressor however. Just giving ideas. mike...
Thats what the air presure is for.When the cylinder is presurised,how will the valve drop?
Anyway thats how we were shown at Bee County Junior College.
To bad they didn't teach me how to spell "Preasurized"
You are assuming he has spent $500 or more for a air compressor and accessories. I would be interested to know why he wants to change springs.
I rebuilt (l46) motor with the stock camshaft. The builder insisted installing 120# on the seat springs. I don't feel I need them or take the chance of a flat cam.
Thats what the air presure is for.When the cylinder is presurised,how will the valve drop?
Anyway thats how we were shown at Bee County Junior College.
To bad they didn't teach me how to spell "Preasurized"
I think it's spelled preshurized.
Seriously, though, I've never done it with air pressure, don't trust it. Maybe the valve seal ain't that great, ya drop a tool or something onto the valve, it pops loose, now what? Gotta take the head off. What a drag. With the rope trick, you have the piston in position where the valves are closed already, and the rope guarantees no dropped valve. And it really isn't all that hard to feed a few feet of rope through the spark plug hole. I used some speaker wire one time, actually, it worked pretty good!
Thanks for the replies, I have a compressor, and a leak-down gauge. I've finally stop being MAD, over the fact that I'm changing valve springs on rebuilt motor.
Bob
Been awhile, but changed the springs on an Olds engine using the compressed air method, and worked fine. Gutted an old spark plug, and brazed on a fitting. Not sure where I got it, but my spring compressor's a hook on type with a turn handle, rather than the pry bar Sears unit. Had to give top of the tool a quick hammer tap to break the retainers loose, but no big deal.
I rebuilt (l46) motor with the stock camshaft. The builder insisted installing 120# on the seat springs. I don't feel I need them or take the chance of a flat cam.
120# seat pressure isn't anything extreme - you're changing them to an 80# seat spring?
Your call - but I'd just stick with the installed springs myself...