Lug nut removal advice please
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Lug nut removal advice please
I had replace my lug nut studs with longer ones since I am using spacers for +offset custom rims.
As I was test driving around the neighborhood, I heard popping from the front, so I pulled over to inspect. I noticed that 3 out of 5 studs have come off and disappeared insid the drum, and the wheel was being held in place by only 2(!) which were loose and therefore wobbly.
The car is only a three blocks away from my house and I can not move the carsince the wheel is literally just hanging. I, unable remove the remaining nuts since the studs turn with the nuts.
I would appreciate any advice! ..or even just advice on how to move the car three blocks to my driveway so I can do the work from there.
THanks!!
As I was test driving around the neighborhood, I heard popping from the front, so I pulled over to inspect. I noticed that 3 out of 5 studs have come off and disappeared insid the drum, and the wheel was being held in place by only 2(!) which were loose and therefore wobbly.
The car is only a three blocks away from my house and I can not move the carsince the wheel is literally just hanging. I, unable remove the remaining nuts since the studs turn with the nuts.
I would appreciate any advice! ..or even just advice on how to move the car three blocks to my driveway so I can do the work from there.
THanks!!
Last edited by 82Red; Jan 17, 2012 at 02:55 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Wheel spacers are highly dangerous, do not use them, you MAY be able to use a special machined spacer that hugs the hub to be concentric and is very precisely machined to hug those studs right next to them like a snug washer...but those cast aluminum junk spacers from Mr, Gasket (I think) are JUNK.....
I have personally seen them fail miserably before.....
the proper way to space a wheel out is with an adaptor, which is 5 lugs nutx holding the adaptor to your hub/rotor like a rim, and then you find 5 more lug studs to put the wheel on....making a total of ten lug nutz to get to the rotor.....check with VBP on sourcing them.....
I have personally seen them fail miserably before.....
the proper way to space a wheel out is with an adaptor, which is 5 lugs nutx holding the adaptor to your hub/rotor like a rim, and then you find 5 more lug studs to put the wheel on....making a total of ten lug nutz to get to the rotor.....check with VBP on sourcing them.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Did you press new studs into the old holes? Along with mrvette's sage advice, I think its better to go up a size in diameter when going longer on the studs.
Get ARP 1/2"x20 studs. Drill the holes out using 39/64 tool steel - If you don't have a Drill Doctor or better, you'll need 3-4 bits. Use lots of oil while drilling. You'll need at least 10 tons to press them in. If you've never replaced your rear trailing arm assemblies, this is a good time to do that as well.
How thick are your spacers?
Get ARP 1/2"x20 studs. Drill the holes out using 39/64 tool steel - If you don't have a Drill Doctor or better, you'll need 3-4 bits. Use lots of oil while drilling. You'll need at least 10 tons to press them in. If you've never replaced your rear trailing arm assemblies, this is a good time to do that as well.
How thick are your spacers?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: some hole in the ground town- camp verde:) arizona
sounds like u didn't tighten the new studs in place. if ur wantin longer studs get the $40 nhra certified ones. (i halfway regret this story) i got some for the back tires but they were atleast half an inch longer than the originals... not enough room in the parkin brake space...couldn't get the spindle forced out... ended up puttin them on the front... put the ones from the front on the back.
to get it home this redneck here would put those wheel dolly things under the front tires, start the car n drive it while pushin it from the outside to steer. redneck ingenuity at work in ur lives everyday
to get it home this redneck here would put those wheel dolly things under the front tires, start the car n drive it while pushin it from the outside to steer. redneck ingenuity at work in ur lives everyday
Last edited by 75vetteman; Jan 17, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,802
Likes: 241
From: Niles, MI
These people can help you out with spacers/adapters: Motorsport Tech
By the way, they are a supporting vendor: Motorsport Tech - The finest Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, and Hub Rings.
By the way, they are a supporting vendor: Motorsport Tech - The finest Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, and Hub Rings.
Last edited by Kid Vette; Jan 18, 2012 at 12:52 AM.
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
I'm lost. How can that happen? Are you saying you lost the 3 nuts and then the studs fell inside??? AND the last two are just dangling??? I can't see that happening - and if it did, didn't you feel the wheel wobble through the steering wheel?
I liked the redneck approach above but being another redneck, I would have just tightened the last two nuts and drive it home. REAL SLOW!
Educate me on the spacers. How can a spacer fail? Being off-center I can see but fail?The adapters pictured above are pretty and sure would do the job but wouldn't you need a different backspace to your rim (thus new rims)? Sure looks more than 4-5mm in thickness than what Mr. Gasket sells. The reason I'm asking is that my car came with these spacers. Unfortunately with my new setup, I'm gonna have to use them again. But I did replace the studs with longer ARPs. I'm sure hoping they hold up to the abuse!
Bud
I liked the redneck approach above but being another redneck, I would have just tightened the last two nuts and drive it home. REAL SLOW!
Educate me on the spacers. How can a spacer fail? Being off-center I can see but fail?The adapters pictured above are pretty and sure would do the job but wouldn't you need a different backspace to your rim (thus new rims)? Sure looks more than 4-5mm in thickness than what Mr. Gasket sells. The reason I'm asking is that my car came with these spacers. Unfortunately with my new setup, I'm gonna have to use them again. But I did replace the studs with longer ARPs. I'm sure hoping they hold up to the abuse!
Bud
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
If he romped on it and got a decent amount of wheel hop going (quite likely with oversized tires) the hop will pretty quickly obliterat those spacers.
Wheels are designed to be held firmly to the hub assembly with bolts having high tensile strength. Bolting the adapter to the hub and the wheel to the adapter means the billet aluminum is now undergoing the same forces that the high tensile bolts are supposed to take. I can't imagine that working to well under a hard load.
Wheels are designed to be held firmly to the hub assembly with bolts having high tensile strength. Bolting the adapter to the hub and the wheel to the adapter means the billet aluminum is now undergoing the same forces that the high tensile bolts are supposed to take. I can't imagine that working to well under a hard load.
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
Robb,
You're describing the expensive adapters with the new studs seated in the billet alum. The cast spacers are only about 4mm thick. I'm not trying to be obtuse but I still don't see how they fail.
Bud.
You're describing the expensive adapters with the new studs seated in the billet alum. The cast spacers are only about 4mm thick. I'm not trying to be obtuse but I still don't see how they fail.
Bud.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
I see what you're saying and wonder the same thing.
My other thoughts were addressing the picture and description of adapters the OP provided.
