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Prep Engine for paint

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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Default Prep Engine for paint

I will shortly be starting my engine top end rebuild. Motor is out of the car right now. I assume the getting the gunk off of it now will be much easier than later.

I was going to leave everything on the motor, tape or plug what ever holes are left, gunk it up and pressure wash it off..

Anything else I need to do before repaint? I already know that I wont be able to get off all the original orange paint. Should it be wire wheeled off after I wash it?

Any brand engine paint better than others?
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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for what it's worth....

When i was redoing the engine bay in my '78 and pulled motor to paint it I first pulled all the big top parts off the block, like the distributor, carb, intake, starter, exhaust manifolds, air pump, AC compressor, assorted brackets, and valve covers basically leaving the block and heads with waterpump.
Than I cleaned up the block of dirt, grease, and as much of the old paint as possible using paint stripper and brake cleaner and wire brushes.
Once I got as much of the old paint off as was possible and everything was clean of dirt, grease, and stripper chemical I prepared the block for painting by using a pre-paint cleaner.
The paint vendor I used recommended NOT to prime the block as their paint is designed to be applied directly to the iron block but to first use a primer coat on the steel oilpan which I did.
After priming the oil pan I painted the block with thre coats of paint.
Came out excellent.
Here is some pics of the motor from start to finish of the painting
http://lbfun.com/Corvette/78Vette/mcu/parts.html


The paint i used was from Bill Hirsh Automotive http://www.hirschauto.com/
I also used the same venmdor for the paint on my '65 Vette motor and it came out excellent as well and I did that motor while still in the car using a brush
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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If the engine is out for a top and I'm going to repaint, I typically just give it a once over with a stiff (non-wire) brush and full-strength Simple Green followed by brake cleaner and finally PPG DX 330. Not perfect, but it's worked OK for me I'm cleaning a 355 this weekend and I'll post pics of the process and results if that's interesting

I've used DupliColor, VHT and POR-15 paints...the jury is still out for me on a favorite. Anecdotally among my buddies, I've heard the worst stuff about VHT and the best about POR.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
Here is some pics of the motor from start to finish of the painting
http://lbfun.com/Corvette/78Vette/mcu/parts.html


The paint i used was from Bill Hirsh Automotive http://www.hirschauto.com/
Great picture thread and interesting paint vendor - thanks
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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I used POR-15 on the frame section of the engine bay. After 3 coats I finally got the hand of it. The thinner you spread it the better it looks. My first coat was to thick and caused hazy spots.. But I think I got it down to a science.

So what POR did you use on the block? Do they make an engine paint?

And Billla, let me say that I have learned so much from your posts.. Once I get the cam out of the car and measure my bore, I will be shooting you an email for your 2-cents on which head combo I should run.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:02 PM
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Hi X,
I'll only add that having the block, etc. perfectly clean is the only way to insure the paint will adhere well. Clean it, then clean it, and then clean it again!
Regards,
Alan

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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi X,
I'll only add that having the block, etc. perfectly clean is the only way to insure the paint will adhere well. Clean it, then clean it, and then clean it again!
Once you have done what Alan said, you are ready to start really cleaning it! Seriously, if ya want paint to stick, you have to really go overboard with the cleaning. What you are trying to do here is get rid of any oil, grease, etc. that has gotten into the pores of the metal, which will keep paint from adhering well.


Scott
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
If the engine is out for a top and I'm going to repaint, I typically just give it a once over with a stiff (non-wire) brush and full-strength Simple Green followed by brake cleaner and finally PPG DX 330. Not perfect, but it's worked OK for me I'm cleaning a 355 this weekend and I'll post pics of the process and results if that's interesting

I've used DupliColor, VHT and POR-15 paints...the jury is still out for me on a favorite. Anecdotally among my buddies, I've heard the worst stuff about VHT and the best about POR.
That brake cleaner is great for the hard to reach spots
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Boy that looks pretty Alan. The paint looks so think and deep. I remember years ago when I did my Mustang, the engine looked great for about a year, then it started to loose its depth. Is that rattle can or brushed?
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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Hi X,
Thanks!
It's rattle can VHT 600 degree engine paint. Since I have a painted intake manifold I was concerned with the paint blackening on the heat crossover; thus the 600 degree paint.
It's holding up fairly well. The picture was from about 10 years ago. Here's the engine today.... well, New Years Day. It doesn't have very much running time on it. The paint has darkened on the left side, but not the right side.
Regards,
Alan



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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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VHT rattle can worked for me. As others have said nothing will work unless the surface is clean, clean, clean....did I say clean!
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