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Cam change under way...

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Default Cam change under way...

Just started today after discovering my wiped cam lobe.



Guess which lifter is good and which is bad?
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Nice soup bowl you have there.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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ouch.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Great picture. Can you tell us what the cam was and how old?
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mikep3
Great picture. Can you tell us what the cam was and how old?
It was a Comp Cams XE274 which was about 5 years old. I think it had maybe 10k miles on it?

I think it was my fault though. I let it get low on oil once without noticing, due to a leak from the rear of the intake manifold. I won't let that happen again!
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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Ouch . . . painful lesson. What are you replacing with?
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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What oil are you using?
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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I feel your pain... I am going thru the same thing with mine.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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If the oil fikter bypass was not plugged there is a very good chance that you had debris go though the bearings.

In a situation like this a plugged bypass and good filter is your best friend.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast


Guess which lifter is good and which is bad?
They're both junk. The left one because it's damaged. The right one because what are you going to use it for, a paperweight? Every cam manufacturer warns NOT to marry used lifters with a new cam. So these two plus the remaining 14 lifters can be recycled and shipped to china so they can melt them into new lifters.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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I would drop the pan and pull a few rod and main bearing caps off while you are at it to check the condition of the bearings. I would guess they are all shot. Been there- Done that...
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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I agree ..... we just are in the final clean up of our newer engine due to a flat cam ... we found junk in both rod and crank bearings ..... would also check your cylinder walls as well .... we did wall hone, polished the crank and had the heads cleaned up as well ...
new cam definately means new lifters ....
sorry to hear this is necessary as it's a real pain in the butt .... and good luck with your cleanup ....
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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I have new lifters and the new XE274 ready to go in. What's involved in pulling the rod and main bearing caps? Can you do it with the engine in the car? I'm familiar with the top part of the engine and working on it, below the block I'm a bit of a noob and I have no good way to pull the engine.

Last edited by neuroclast; Jan 24, 2012 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
I have new lifters and the new XE274 ready to go in. What's involved in pulling the rod and main bearing caps? Can you do it with the engine in the car? I'm familiar with the top part of the engine and working on it, below the block I'm a bit of a noob and I have no good way to pull the engine.
The main caps are easy, drop the oil pan (I think you need to disconnect the steering) and that's it. I had broken main bolt in my pan....

Not sure about the rod bearings.

You near the golf course in TT?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jim2527
The main caps are easy, drop the oil pan (I think you need to disconnect the steering) and that's it. I had broken main bolt in my pan....

Not sure about the rod bearings.

You near the golf course in TT?
I'm on 56th just south of the river! I'm a poor college student, so I live in these cheap apartments haha.

Didn't know there were other people so close! :]
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jim2527
The main caps are easy, drop the oil pan (I think you need to disconnect the steering) and that's it. I had broken main bolt in my pan....

Not sure about the rod bearings.

You near the golf course in TT?
My old 79' L82 also had a broken main bolt. I think I saw it first through the drain hole.

Yep, just pull the steering out of the way. I had to also drill out the broken bolt while the engine was in the car. I used a trash bag to mask off the engine internals. It worked.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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Probably the greatest problem with R&R-ing bearing caps while under the engine is getting enough clearance for your torque wrench. Using a long extension is a NO NO.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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I haven't had time to work on it more yet, but I'm hoping maybe the filter bypass was plugged by the PO. The engine was rebuilt about 9 years ago by a circle track engine builder, maybe I got lucky and he plugged it. Is there any way to look at the filter area with the filter on/off and see if it was plugged?

Thanks guys for all the help btw. CF always a great place to vent my car troubles
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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Remove the filter. There is an aluminum adapter bolted to the block. It has the bypass flapper door. No missing if it's been plugged or not.
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