C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #21  
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I just finished my cam swap. 12 hours start to finish. I pulled the pan, to install the front cover, not due to a mechanical problem. Drop the idler arm and you have plenty of clearance. You will need to remove the trans inspection cover also. Car runs great now.

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #22  
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Default Use a calibrated torque wrench if u can.

Originally Posted by neuroclast
I have new lifters and the new XE274 ready to go in. What's involved in pulling the rod and main bearing caps? Can you do it with the engine in the car? I'm familiar with the top part of the engine and working on it, below the block I'm a bit of a noob and I have no good way to pull the engine.
Originally Posted by neuroclast
I'm on 56th just south of the river! I'm a poor college student, so I live in these cheap apartments haha.
Didn't know there were other people so close! :]

I did this after my last wiped cam as i found chunks on the oil pickup screen. Had a tiny particle scrape on one of the rod bearings and a considerable particle scrape on one of the mains (sorry can't recall which bearing numbers). I decided to replace the bad bearings and polish the crank journal by hand - yes while under the car.
Bearings are cheap so $$ not a issue. But i recall using strips of 400 then 600 paper to polish until no sharp ridges with my finger nail test. BTW i rolled out the old top brg with a cotter pin and rolled the replacement back in the same way.
Car runs ok. I had a knock from the bellhousing inspection cover that scared me for a while but now all is quite down below.
I can say where i really had to do that or not with my low mileage low power crate motor. I have seen cranks with some nasty large gouges rebearinged and returned to service with a smooth polish on the journal. But it was done mostly for my own piece of mind i guess.

Hope this helps,
cardo0
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #23  
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Nice job. I bet the car does run great, but from the above picture, I'll bet your back is a different story.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #24  
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I would be curious also as to what oil you were using. Reworked engine with newer cam and aftermarket high seat pressure springs are recipe for disaster without proper oil. I think this engine still had flat tappets, didn't it?

Ralph.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #25  
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Nice work!
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
My old 79' L82 also had a broken main bolt. I think I saw it first through the drain hole.

Yep, just pull the steering out of the way. I had to also drill out the broken bolt while the engine was in the car. I used a trash bag to mask off the engine internals. It worked.
I was lucky, there was just enough of a nub on the broken bolt for me to work it out with screwdriver and then grab ahold with vice grips.

Originally Posted by neuroclast
I'm on 56th just south of the river! I'm a poor college student, so I live in these cheap apartments haha.

Didn't know there were other people so close! :]
I'm over on Downs Ave by the golf course. If you need a hand let me know.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #27  
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Hrm, I took the filter off today.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dj...re_adapter.jpg

As far as I can tell mine looks like that. So that means it wasn't plugged right?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:14 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
Hrm, I took the filter off today.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dj...re_adapter.jpg

As far as I can tell mine looks like that. So that means it wasn't plugged right?
No and what filter were you using??
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
So that means it wasn't plugged right?
Not necessarily. Only if you can push in that spring-loaded plunger does it mean it was not plugged. Someone could have filled in the top part with epoxy making it inoperable but original looking.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Not necessarily. Only if you can push in that spring-loaded plunger does it mean it was not plugged. Someone could have filled in the top part with epoxy making it inoperable but original looking.
Should I just get a flathead and push hard and see if it moves? As for the filter, it was a Fram TG or whatever their better ones are.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #31  
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It won't take that much pushing with a straight slot screwdriver to see if it's operable. You could also remove the 2 capscrews that mount the adapter to the block. There is no seal to replace.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
Hrm, I took the filter off today.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dj...re_adapter.jpg

As far as I can tell mine looks like that. So that means it wasn't plugged right?
That fiber disk in the adapter is the bypass "valve" - if it can be pressed inwards by oil pressure (or by your pinkie), it means the bypass function is operative. If the pressure drop ACROSS the oil filter exceeds a certain amount (7 psi as a guess), that bypass will open and let unfiltered oil enter the engine. Some people remove that disk and plug the opening with a 1/4" pipe plug to disable the bypass and prevent debris from going into the engine. However, if the filter becomes plugged with crud, the oil flow into the engine may stop entirely. Which is worse?

I'd guess that in your case, your bypass disk will move if you press on it - in this case, the probable times for filter bypass operation would be when oil is thick such as cold start-up, or when filter and oil become dirty.

Good luck!
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cardo0
I decided to replace the bad bearings and polish the crank journal by hand - yes while under the car.
Bearings are cheap so $$ not a issue. But i recall using strips of 400 then 600 paper to polish until no sharp ridges with my finger nail test. cardo0
600 Grit sandpaper is 50 microns.
A crankshaft requires a precision finish. Sanding it by hand in the car is not what I would be recommending especially when your removing enough material to take out a scratch you can feel with your nail.

The oil film between the journals on the crankshaft and the loaded portion of the main and rod bearings is only about .00005" thick when the engine is running. If the journals are too rough or have burrs, particles or other debris that sticks up above the surface, it can abrade the bearings and increase bearing wear and the risk of bearing seizure. Cast iron cranks typically contain about 4% carbon. The carbon forms little nodules of graphite surrounded by a relatively soft form of iron called "ferrite." When the crankshaft journals are ground and polished, the ferrite around the graphite nodules forms little burrs or jagged flaps that protrude above the surface. The height of these burrs can be as much as .00035", which is more than enough to cut across the oil film and dig into the bearings.
Ferrite burrs create a sawtooth-like finish on the surface that is directional, usually facing away from the direction the journal was ground or polished. If the sharp edges face away from the direction that the crankshaft normally rotates, it is said to be a "favorable" orientation because the burrs are less likely to dig into the bearings. On the other hand, if the sharp edges are towards the same direction of rotation, it is an "unfavorable" orientation and is much more likely to cause problems


Think you got it to less than 5/100,000 of true all the way across and perfectly round? If so you have skills.

Last edited by 63mako; Jan 30, 2012 at 08:34 PM.
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