I searched the archives for information on replacing the hard lines and I did not find definitive answers. My main concern was replacing the front to rear line with the body on. I now can tell all that, yes, it can be done. Mind you I was not attempting to save the old lines, though I tried for kicks and giggles, as the fittings were too far gone. Once I got the blocks out and into a vise, the old fittings came out with no problems. The installation of new lines are a pain in the az, but with patience it`s do- able, and my bends are almost on the money. I`m not done with the complete replacement of all the lines, but I have the back half finished up to the center cross member where all that is left is to reinstall the mounting tabs and then hit the front lines. I understand that the front lines are not az difficult. We shall see. I hope this post will relieve some anxiety for those of you thinking about it.

 

So- The line going front to back can be replaced contrary to Vette legend which holds it is impossible? Did you buy a replacement line pre-bent or did you make one yourself? I have looked at it and thought that it could be done by bending the line as necessary as you snake it through and then tweaking it back once it was in. Not show quality or anything but seemed possible. How did you do it?

 

Is your car a 4 spd or auto? The crossmembers in autos bolt in where the manuals are welded in. I want to do this too on both types and have new SS prebent lines just not sure about the manual replacement?


Rob are you thinking of doing this too?
Gary

 

Frist, I have a 4spd., and I used ss lines that were pre-bent. But the vendor curved the longest two lines, front to back and the front crossover, to fit in the box :confused: . The lines can be bent back to shape when starting out and with the spring wrap, the danger of kinking the line is minimal. I had to open up some of the tighter bends to get through the center crossmember and over the rear crossmember. I started at the front of the center ( trans ) crossmember and pulled past and under the rear suspension far enough to get the front end of the line directed towards the engine compartment. I then pushed/pulled the line into the engine compartment far enough to start the line over the rear crossover. I had to make some small adjustments to the bends and slightly curve the straight portion of the line to get it over the rear crossmember. Once I was over the rear crossmember I started to bend the lines back in shape, without any kinks, as the adjustments I made were not that severe. I used the closed end of a 9/16 combo wrench over the end of the line to move the end into position. I also snugged the line mounting tabs when I was close to the final position to make final adjustment to bends. When I was done, everything lined up. Show quality, no but you will be surprised. Besides, show quality would be done with frame off anyway. Whatever you do, don`t get frustrated! :)
:cheers:

 

Thanks for the detailed description BDAZVET. I was hoping someone could shed some light on this.

Gary- I replaced the rear lines last year including the crossover and will do the fronts when I get to the front end rebuild, maybe next winter. I wondered about that front to back line and would hate to leave it after all the other lines were changed.

 

Bruno, it's not that bad. I just did as BDAZVET did. I replaced all the lines on my '68 4spd conv and my '75 auto coupe and was able to do them. You have to "carefully" bend and unbend areas of the line, just do it cautiously without kinking it and it'll work. The front crossover one is fun too, as you have to go "up and over" the sway bar at the same time you're going "front to back" with it. I "duct taped" the ends with the fittings before I snaked it through, especially the passenger side where the line pretty much runs with and near the lower radiator hose. Of course, in this area, cars "without" A/C, are easier to do, like my '68.

 

Paul:
GOOD POINT! I forgot to write: Tape the ends closed!!!