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My '79 is all stock and was bought with practically everything from 1979 including the rear wheels being bent out.
I asked a friend about that and also the dealer who sold it to me and both said that they're like that so as to prevent the car from flipping while taking hard turns at fast speeds.
However, I'm no racer and I don't like to run so I won't be needing that.
My first question, is it true that they were built like this?
Hi J76,
It sounds like the rear strut rods need to be adjusted.
Looking from the rear... do the wheels/tires tip in or out at the top?
I believe with a proper rear alignment they should tip in at the top just a couple of degrees.
Regards,
Alan
Anything stock on that camber will hardly be noticeable the causes are one of two things, the lower strut bushings are #1 to check and certainly easy....look that the strut end loops are concentric with the bolts that pass through them....if not, the bushings are bad....
the next check is to jack up the rear, leave the wheels dangle, grab the wheels at 3-9 o'clock and alternately wiggle back and forth hard as you can...feel any clunking/looseness on the axle?? if not and you get nearly zero movement, the bearings are fine.....NOW grab at 12-6 o'clock, and do the same alternate in/out now if the driveshaft is loose on the diffy end you maybe feel lots of play on that if there is, the output yokes are bad, and you have to remove the diffy to change them....they wear on the diffy cross shaft, famous on later shark differentials, and I replaced mine on the '72 even, with hardened ones in the midst of a rebuild....
I asked a friend about that and also the dealer who sold it to me and both said that they're like that so as to prevent the car from flipping while taking hard turns at fast speeds.
I wouldn't believe that.
My '79 was exactly as you describe. Strut rod bushings were shot, trailing arm bushings were shot, and diff side yokes had 1/4" of play. Not saying this is exactly what is wrong with your car, but they're the usual suspects.
If you saying that the tops of the rear wheels tilt in and the bottom tilt out, it can be several things:
1. Bad strut bushings
2. Bad axel retainers/clips
3. Flattened rear spring
4. Struts out of proper alignment.
If it is happening to both wheels, I'd almost bet it is the rear spring.
Messed up the previous post. What I basically mean is that it's as if the middle of the axel was causing bending inward towards the floor. (Let's say that the axel was in fact just a straight bar that went through both wheels. Sorry if my mechanical handicap is confusing anyone.)
The Gulstrand performance/racing specs for rear camber on a C3 are 1 deg negative (tilting in at the top) max; for touring it's 0 deg min to 1/2 deg max. This amount is barely noticeable; if your rears are showing a noticeable amount of negative camber, you need to find out what's wrong and correct it. Worn suspension bushings or loose camber cam bolts can cause your car to be very squirrelly. The suspension is designed to increase (negative) camber as it is compressed, so a weak spring could be the issue, but I'm guessing if she's knock-kneed enough for you to ask on here, you have other problems.
It's kind of hard to see here. Someone's always parked behind it, making it difficult to take a good picture.
I think you meant an "A". Tops tilting inward and bottoms outward based on the picture. In other words, the distance measured between tires at the top would be less than the distance measured between the tires at the road (bottom)
I think you meant an "A". Tops tilting inward and bottoms outward based on the picture. In other words, the distance measured between tires at the top would be less than the distance measured between the tires at the road (bottom)