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C3 aluminum heads HELP!

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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Default C3 aluminum heads HELP!

C3 350 new flo-teck aluminum heads. Stripped a rocker stud while torquing studs, the intake side of #3 cyl. (there are only 5 threads to grab b4 it comes into the intake cavern). Question...is there oversized studs where you can re-tap the stud-hole a size bigger?? Theres gotta be a fix for this situation......any help?? thankx..smokengunz.

PS..what is the correct torque for these rocker studs...we were told 50 ft.lbs. (Seems alot for aluminum with anti-seize lub)

Last edited by smokengunz; Jan 28, 2012 at 07:21 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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Ever heard of a heli-coil? It would probably be best if you heli-coiled all 16 of them.


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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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And if you've never installed a heli-coil, I'd suggest taking the head to a machine shop. You can always buy a heli-coil kit and practice on something else for starters.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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Heli-coil, make sure it starts straight. It will be as or stronger than the original.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:24 PM
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Torque specs are lower for bolts going into aluminum. Are you applying the torques recommended by the head manufacturer? And with AL heads and steel bolts, loc-tite may be in order if the joint is supposed to be permanent.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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Anytime I put steel into aluminum I use anti-seize. Permanent is a time issue, with regard to hands on age of vehicles. Sometime difficult to predict.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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Well, 'permanent' using Loc-tite isn't permanent, anyway. It just ups the torque required to break them loose...which is what is needed. Anti-sieze is [effectively] a lubricant, which would tend to lower break-away torque. I understand why you use it, but not sure how beneficial it is....unless you have a racing engine that you disassemble regularly.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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anti seize can change the torque value.

Helicoil and youre good to go.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:07 AM
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Thankx gentlemen....picked up a heli-coil kit at Ace 7/16 x 14 and had it fixed in 20 minutes. I guess we werent the FIRST to strip one..lol. Told my Son to get cast heads but he wanted aluminum...oh well!!! Seems to be a debate on anti-sieze vs lock-tite. We used anti-sieze on studs which torqued ok and lock-tite on the stripped one heli-coiled. Two different philosophies at each end of the spectrum. Ive been using both on MY '59 vette since 1965.... both good products. but a newbie to aluminum. Thankx again...
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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Those are El cheapo aluminum heads, you can get them for about 700 bucks a pair, right? Once the engine is up and running, let us know how they work out, and if you have any other problems with them, OK? Who did ya buy 'em from?


Scott
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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My love affair with anti seize is deeply embedded in my soul by the number of hours I've spent getting broken bolts/studs out of aluminum. I also use a lot of lock-tight and thread sealer, but they haven't been as painful as removing broken studs/bolts and pulled out threads.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Indiancreek
My love affair with anti seize is deeply embedded in my soul by the number of hours I've spent getting broken bolts/studs out of aluminum. I also use a lot of lock-tight and thread sealer, but they haven't been as painful as removing broken studs/bolts and pulled out threads.

Indeed!!!


Scott
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Indiancreek
My love affair with anti seize is deeply embedded in my soul by the number of hours I've spent getting broken bolts/studs out of aluminum. I also use a lot of lock-tight and thread sealer, but they haven't been as painful as removing broken studs/bolts and pulled out threads.
Ditto,

Try removing plugs from an old VW bug that did not have it on them.
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