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i'm redoing my wiring harness with a painless (And so far it has been :)) wiring harness.
They have to direct lines to the power window switches, do i need to go to the relay then the switches, or is the relay basically worthless?
i already bypassed it, but i'm a little worried.
Since a relay is essentially only a remote switch than as long as the switches in the car can handle the amp load required to raise and lower your windows, you should be fine. I doubt that the relays have a higher load capacity than the actual switches but stranger things have happened. One way to see if the switches are stressed is to start the engine and hold one in the up position for about 10 seconds longer than required to fully raise the window, and feel the bottom of the switch where the harness connects to see if there is any substantial heat present in the switch. If the switch stays cool than you should be also. Hope this helps :cheers:
81's didn't have relays from the factory and it uses the same switches as the older c3's so I don't think there would be a problem as long as the wires are up to the job :cheers:
Thanks for the help. The wiring harness from Painless is going to eliminate so much stuff on the C3 harness. It's great. I'm probably going to save 20lbs from all the stuff that is taken out of the loop. :eek: :D
The purpose for the power window relay is to allow the current to come from a source OTHER than the ignition switch. Not to take load from the console switches.
When the ignition switch is on several wires are energized. One of these feeds the power window relay which takes a small amount of current to turn on. With the power window relay on, power for the window motors is drawn from a space on the fuse panel. This way the ignition switch doesn't have to be built to handle any more load than necissary.
Full current to the motors flows through the switches in the console.
Later models didn't have this, they have a different ignition switch though (I think).
but remember that this is the 18 circuit painless harness. i don't think that this will be the case. are you sure that i need this relay? i don't see a reason for it.
With your painless wiring harness where does the supply to the switches come from? If direct from the ignition switch you will damage it,as mentioned above,in this regard you need the relay.
X, my car had no power windows from the factory, but I insist having power widows in every car I own...period...
so at any rate, the factory wiring included a 'safety' switch so that the ignition had to be on for the windows to work....
kids and all that fanciful danger and such...
well I wired mine direct to the battery circuit with a 30 amp fuse....no sweat...works even if the ignition is off....
Nice, good thinking. Painless says that all the circuits in the kit are fused, so I don't think I'll have to worry about it. Plus the kit has a large fuse that is inline from the line coming from the starter to the fuse block. I think i will be ok. thanks for the help everyone. great advice.