Still having TI ignition problems
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 154
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From: brea california
Still having TI ignition problems
Here is what I know now the R terminal when the car is turned over has 9.5 VDC on it. The starter is rebuilt.
Dave fielder of TI ignition tells me there needs to be a minimum of 10 VDC on that terminal to get the ignition to work.
I checked at the battery itself and it's 10.5 there when the car is turned over so I have a 1 VDC drop at the starter itself.
I have a brand new positive battery cable on the car and it still has a .4 VDC voltage drop from the battery to the starter.
Any Ideas? The battery turns the car over fine but it doesn't have enough VDC to make the ignition work right.
What does your battery VDC drop to when your car turns over?
Dave fielder of TI ignition tells me there needs to be a minimum of 10 VDC on that terminal to get the ignition to work.
I checked at the battery itself and it's 10.5 there when the car is turned over so I have a 1 VDC drop at the starter itself.
I have a brand new positive battery cable on the car and it still has a .4 VDC voltage drop from the battery to the starter.
Any Ideas? The battery turns the car over fine but it doesn't have enough VDC to make the ignition work right.
What does your battery VDC drop to when your car turns over?
Last edited by georgeculolias; Jan 31, 2012 at 12:00 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 203
From: Loveland, CO
Dave Fielder is certainly "The man" on this subject. Do you still have all stock components? I used one of the replacement modules, and still had some issues. Had to change the amplifier box extension wiring to solve problem. Has something to do with the spring tension on the female terminals losing their grip on the male terminals they connect to. Dave said it was imperative that the amplifier box extension wiring be replaced when installing a new TI box module. This may apply to existing stock modules also.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Last edited by rponfick; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
your saying the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid only has 9.5VDC on it while cranking? I would say you need a new solenoid, it should be full battery voltage, the voltage drop at the coil happens over the resistor wire going to the coil and the K-66 gets a full 12VDC from the pink wire off the steering column ignition switch. Even a battery starting to go bad should be able to generate 11.0VDC or better while cranking. I would be happier with a figure in the high 11VDC low 12VDC range. Try jumping to your horn relay terminal and starting it off that (on driver's side inner fender by vacuum tank.)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: brea california
your saying the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid only has 9.5VDC on it while cranking? I would say you need a new solenoid, it should be full battery voltage, the voltage drop at the coil happens over the resistor wire going to the coil and the K-66 gets a full 12VDC from the pink wire off the steering column ignition switch. Even a battery starting to go bad should be able to generate 11.0VDC or better while cranking. I would be happier with a figure in the high 11VDC low 12VDC range. Try jumping to your horn relay terminal and starting it off that (on driver's side inner fender by vacuum tank.)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: brea california
Dave Fielder is certainly "The man" on this subject. Do you still have all stock components? I used one of the replacement modules, and still had some issues. Had to change the amplifier box extension wiring to solve problem. Has something to do with the spring tension on the female terminals losing their grip on the male terminals they connect to. Dave said it was imperative that the amplifier box extension wiring be replaced when installing a new TI box module. This may apply to existing stock modules also.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Dave says I have to have 10 VDC minimum at the R terminal and the battery voltage drops to 10.5 when cranking then just the wiring drops another volt and yet the positive cable is brand new and I cleaned all the grounds. Today I'm going to recrush the old ground wires and do some voltage drop measurements on the wiring but dang I'm out of ideas.
Does everyone elses battery voltage drop that low when cranking? Maybe I should replace the battery?
Last edited by georgeculolias; Jan 31, 2012 at 12:00 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
How good is the negative cable? Is it clean at the frame and battery connection? Is the ground cable that connects engine to frame large enough and contacts clean? Problems here can cause to much current draw and lower voltage also.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: brea california
I'm reading on the internet that 10.5 cranking is good and that 1 VDC voltage drop at the starter is okay too...So how the heck can I ever get 10vdc to get the ignition to work?
Last edited by georgeculolias; Jan 31, 2012 at 01:23 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
Have you tried jumpering your battery to a running vehicle or an HD battery charger/starter and seeing if your car will start? That should at least give you a clue if it's truely a voltage issue.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 154
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From: brea california