Power door locks question - 1980
01-30-2012, 11:15 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Power door locks question - 1980
Trying to get my door locks to work. The manual locks are very difficult to push or pull and the power locks still don't seem to work after pulling the panels and replacing the switches. All wiring appears to be good and grounds are fine. After spraying the mechanisms with WD-40 I can, with some effort, lock and unlock using the rods for the armrest *****. I can't use the door key for fear of breaking it off in the lock, and yes it is the right key as I can turn it some but not enough to lock or unlock either door. Not sure where to go with this next. Anyone have any suggestions?
01-31-2012, 12:16 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Its a Pain to get in there but I would disconect the various Rods that conect the Door Lock and the Solinoid and the interior pull rod one at a Time and see if it frees up. If not then the Latch itself is stiff. Process of elimination.
01-31-2012, 10:58 PM
#5
Are your lock solenoids making any noise when you hit the switch?
Do you have 12V to the solenoid when you hit the switch?
I had a series of issues with mine. The ground is only on the Pass side. I had to add a ground to the drivers side also. The switches were both shot , new ones are cheap. The connectors to the lock solenoids are notorious for crumbling and cracking and also the contacts get oxidized. I found replacement connectors with pigtails on Ebay. After replacing the switches, connectors, adding the second ground, I got the locks to work, then I soaked all the rod connections and the lock mechanisms with spray lithium grease. I dont like to use WD 40 in the doors because it stinks up the inside of the car and it don't really lubricate very well. Mine work like a charm now.
Do you have 12V to the solenoid when you hit the switch?
I had a series of issues with mine. The ground is only on the Pass side. I had to add a ground to the drivers side also. The switches were both shot , new ones are cheap. The connectors to the lock solenoids are notorious for crumbling and cracking and also the contacts get oxidized. I found replacement connectors with pigtails on Ebay. After replacing the switches, connectors, adding the second ground, I got the locks to work, then I soaked all the rod connections and the lock mechanisms with spray lithium grease. I dont like to use WD 40 in the doors because it stinks up the inside of the car and it don't really lubricate very well. Mine work like a charm now.
Trying to get my door locks to work. The manual locks are very difficult to push or pull and the power locks still don't seem to work after pulling the panels and replacing the switches. All wiring appears to be good and grounds are fine. After spraying the mechanisms with WD-40 I can, with some effort, lock and unlock using the rods for the armrest *****. I can't use the door key for fear of breaking it off in the lock, and yes it is the right key as I can turn it some but not enough to lock or unlock either door. Not sure where to go with this next. Anyone have any suggestions?
02-01-2012, 07:02 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Update: after working with my problem for several evenings, I can now manually lock and unlock the passenger door with the **** or the key without difficulty. The driver side is still being difficult but has improved. I may end up pulling the mechanism and really giving it a good cleaning as previously suggested. Still no power locks even with replacement switches, so I will test the circuits tonight, I hope. Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
02-01-2012, 08:44 AM
#7
Safety Car
Are your lock solenoids making any noise when you hit the switch?
Do you have 12V to the solenoid when you hit the switch?
I had a series of issues with mine. The ground is only on the Pass side. I had to add a ground to the drivers side also. The switches were both shot , new ones are cheap. The connectors to the lock solenoids are notorious for crumbling and cracking and also the contacts get oxidized. I found replacement connectors with pigtails on Ebay. After replacing the switches, connectors, adding the second ground, I got the locks to work, then I soaked all the rod connections and the lock mechanisms with spray lithium grease. I dont like to use WD 40 in the doors because it stinks up the inside of the car and it don't really lubricate very well. Mine work like a charm now.
Do you have 12V to the solenoid when you hit the switch?
I had a series of issues with mine. The ground is only on the Pass side. I had to add a ground to the drivers side also. The switches were both shot , new ones are cheap. The connectors to the lock solenoids are notorious for crumbling and cracking and also the contacts get oxidized. I found replacement connectors with pigtails on Ebay. After replacing the switches, connectors, adding the second ground, I got the locks to work, then I soaked all the rod connections and the lock mechanisms with spray lithium grease. I dont like to use WD 40 in the doors because it stinks up the inside of the car and it don't really lubricate very well. Mine work like a charm now.
the pig tails are usually the fix!
02-01-2012, 12:33 PM
#8
Drifting
My 80 had similar problems when I bought it used in 1984. If I recall there is also a pivot near the lower front of the door which you can see with the panel off. WD 40 is not enough. Used a machine oil like 3 in 1 to lubricate this pivot. For other areas use a lithium grease and apply with a small but cheap artist brush.
You can slowly disconnect pivots/rods to see which one is causing the problem.
Mine have been perfect since 84 though the car is stored in the garage most of the time.
You can slowly disconnect pivots/rods to see which one is causing the problem.
Mine have been perfect since 84 though the car is stored in the garage most of the time.
02-01-2012, 03:42 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Another related issue has surfaced as things are getting back to working condition. I can lock the driver side door with the key and set the alarm. However, I can't unlock it. It feels like it should be unlocking as I turn the key but no love there in comparison with the passenger side lock, which works fine now (but no power locks yet as I haven't had time to follow through with some suggested troubleshooting). Getting frustrated... It is probably still an issue with the driver side mechanism. Time to tear is down again and remove the whole gizmo for a
thorough cleaning and lubing. <sigh>
thorough cleaning and lubing. <sigh>
02-01-2012, 05:07 PM
#10
Safety Car
Sounds like your actuators have frozen up which causes the linkage to not move smoothly and compromises the electrical connection. I've replaced them in my 78. Here's link to an articles that may offer some help.
Door Lock Repair
Door Lock Repair
02-02-2012, 06:42 PM
#13
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2012
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07-25-2012, 08:57 AM
#14
Instructor
i have lubed all connectons and can manually operate locks on both sides. The new actuator tries to move in one direction but not the other. I suspect bad connections or switches and have ordered both. This car set for quite some time and had a lot of moisture in it. Hopefully its just a corrosion issue and the new parts will fix the problem.
