1974 Speaker replacement
I have most of my dashboard out right now, but the dash pad is still in (I'm rebuilding my heater/headlight vacuum system). I have the original speakers in the dash with an early 80's aftermarket alpine head unit, which was in the car when I got it. The system doesnt sound good and I would like to change out the speakers if possible. Can the speakers be removed without removing the dash pad? I see some screws holding some frame around them in, but I dont know If that would allow them to be removed.
Also, would any 4x6 car speaker work in the hole without any mods (I dont care about cutting the speaker, but I dont want to cut up the car)? And are there any suggested models for fairly cheap that would sound good?
Thanks,
Will



Then you can remove the top pad

You have to pull the pad to get to the drivers side speaker, but be careful, it is old and can crack.
Thanks,
Will
Would these speakers work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cerwin-Vega-...item3cc0d04fbe
I like my Cerwin Vegas and thats a real good price, but they may be too deep for the drivers side.
Thanks,
Will
Will
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Now, you can go to the driver's side. Remove door sill, kick panel, and remove the screws to the driver dash panel. Remove the lower steering column trim panel (under the column), remove the 2 screws for the headlight override vacuum switch plate, and remove the bolts (or nuts) holding the steering column up. You may also need to loosen the bolts/nuts at the firewall flange at the base of the column, so that the column can drop an inch or two. Pull out the top edge of the drivers dash panel and pull out as far as you can without forcing anything (couple of inches, max). Now, grab the upper dash pad and pull it rearward (straight back...don't tilt the pad). This will pull it off the holding clips around the windshield area.
You can now lift the upper pad just enough so that you can get one hand in that area to remove the speaker support nuts and pull the assembly out. (Yes. I've done it this way and didn't crack/damage the dash pad.)
My suggestion to you is to buy a couple of 25-50W speakers of decent quality. If you want to keep the Alpine (or other modern head unit), get 4 ohm speakers. Wire them the same way on both sides (proper phasing); if you don't, the sound will be weak and horrid
.I will also suggest that you might want to add some speakers in the kickpanel areas. Mid-range/woofers (2-way or 3-way designs) of 4"x10" (what the '68/69 cars had), 5"x7", 5-1/4" round or other size that you can fit in there and mount to the sub-structure of the car. Put as large as you can get in there; but width and depth are an issue. Get 40-100W speakers of 4 ohms. Then wire them in parallel with the dash speakers (to get 2 ohm total impedence on each side) or in series (to get 8 ohm impedence for the pair) as you need to match the output impedence of the amp unit.
Also, put some fiberglass insulation behind the kickpanel speakers to keep the car body from resonating (buzzing) with speaker frequencies.
I can assure you that adding the kickpanel speakers (but keeping the dash speakers, too) is the best way to get reasonably good sound out of the front portion of the passenger compartment. The kickpanels speakers provide the lows and mids to the sound; the dash speakers reflect their sound off the windshield to the passengers for the high frequencies.
If you just want to 'hear the music', just stay with the dash speakers. But, if you want to 'enjoy the music', go with 4 speakers.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 3, 2012 at 12:05 AM.
Would these speakers work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cerwin-Vega-...item3cc0d04fbe
I like my Cerwin Vegas and thats a real good price, but they may be too deep for the drivers side.
Thanks,
Will
Will
Now, you can go to the driver's side. Remove door sill, kick panel, and remove the screws to the driver dash panel. Remove the lower steering column trim panel (under the column), remove the 2 screws for the headlight override vacuum switch plate, and remove the bolts (or nuts) holding the steering column up. You may also need to loosen the bolts/nuts at the firewall flange at the base of the column, so that the column can drop an inch or two. Pull out the top edge of the drivers dash panel and pull out as far as you can without forcing anything (couple of inches, max). Now, grab the upper dash pad and pull it rearward (straight back...don't tilt the pad). This will pull it off the holding clips around the windshield area.
You can now lift the upper pad just enough so that you can get one hand in that area to remove the speaker support nuts and pull the assembly out. (Yes. I've done it this way and didn't crack/damage the dash pad.)
My suggestion to you is to buy a couple of 25-50W speakers of decent quality. If you want to keep the Alpine (or other modern head unit), get 4 ohm speakers. Wire them the same way on both sides (proper phasing); if you don't, the sound will be weak and horrid
.I will also suggest that you might want to add some speakers in the kickpanel areas. Mid-range/woofers (2-way or 3-way designs) of 4"x10" (what the '68/69 cars had), 5"x7", 5-1/4" round or other size that you can fit in there and mount to the sub-structure of the car. Put as large as you can get in there; but width and depth are an issue. Get 40-100W speakers of 4 ohms. Then wire them in parallel with the dash speakers (to get 2 ohm total impedence on each side) or in series (to get 8 ohm impedence for the pair) as you need to match the output impedence of the amp unit.
Also, put some fiberglass insulation behind the kickpanel speakers to keep the car body from resonating (buzzing) with speaker frequencies.
I can assure you that adding the kickpanel speakers (but keeping the dash speakers, too) is the best way to get reasonably good sound out of the front portion of the passenger compartment. The kickpanels speakers provide the lows and mids to the sound; the dash speakers reflect their sound off the windshield to the passengers for the high frequencies.
If you just want to 'hear the music', just stay with the dash speakers. But, if you want to 'enjoy the music', go with 4 speakers.

When you say speaker phasing, you essentially mean positive to positive and negative to negative right (aka wiring it correctly), is that right?
Thanks again,
Will
Thanks,
Will

Will
Yes, the Infinity Kappa's are some fine speakers. The 4X6's won't handle a ton of bass (but you will find that no 4x6's will regardless of brand), but with some adjustments to the head unit and amp, it is surprising how much volume these speakers will put out. We switched the JL amp that is powering them to the high pass filter, then tweaked the gain **** until we were able to play the stereo with wide open volume with no distortion. These 4x6's will deliver a good crisp quality sound. To compliment them, we have a set of Pioneer 6x9's behind the seats and a 10" Rockford P3 sub which are both being driven by seperate amps. It sounds unbelievably awesome. Back to the Infinity Kappa's, I would recommend them. They make some quality stuff. You can find them on Ebay or places like Techtronics for pretty cheap ($40 to $60 a pair).
Regarding the dash removal, I think you will find as we did that it is not as bad as you think it will be. Just take your time and enjoy the project :-)
If the hole pattern in the new speakers will not match up with the speaker support, just use a pencil type soldering iron to burn new holes in the [plastic] speaker frame so that they will mount up OK.















