Ignition switch - difficulty turning
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Flemington NJ
Ignition switch - difficulty turning
The first issue I have to address on my newly purchased '80 is the ignition switch. I basically need two hands of force to turn the key to start the car, and the same to turn the car off. I searched the forums and it seems like a worn keyway is likely. I also noted some comments on lubing with Mobil 1 or graphite. The car only has 42K miles, so perhaps lack of use has made the switch bind? I have the service manual and a new switch on order, but I wanted to see if there is any new info/tricks for this problem I can check out before it all comes apart. The previous owner (also the original owner) says it's always been pretty hard to turn, but I doubt it was this tough. The car has an auto trans if it makes a difference. Thanks
Last edited by drk1313; Feb 7, 2012 at 03:38 PM.
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From: Flemington NJ
The problem just became bigger - I came home to add some lube to the cylinder - I inserted the key to see just how far it would easily move before I started, and now it doesn't move at all. I can turn the key backwards to the acc setting, but nothing going forward. It acts as though I have the wrong key. I parked the car yesterday, and today it doesn't work! Very strange. One key is original - the other a copy - neither work (only acc). Now I wish I parked the car in a better place to work on it...
Race Director
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
If the key works backwards it should be ok forwards
When you turn the key a few things happen (not sure about an 80 but they should be close)
The pin that locks the steering wheel gets pulled down out of the slotted disk, if that pin was jammed somehow it might prevent the key from turning forward
If the car is an Automatic, there should be a link or cable that turns the column (as if it was a shift on the tree) and if it's not in park/neutral it would prevent the key from physically turning. Not sure if your is like this but grab the column between the key and the dash and try turning it one way or the other while trying the key
Also try moving the shifter a bit to see
If you open the hood and look at the column where it comes out of the firewall you should see an arm coming off with the linkage/cable, check and see if you can wiggle it there and try the key
Just some ideas to try before taking anything apart
Mooser
When you turn the key a few things happen (not sure about an 80 but they should be close)
The pin that locks the steering wheel gets pulled down out of the slotted disk, if that pin was jammed somehow it might prevent the key from turning forward
If the car is an Automatic, there should be a link or cable that turns the column (as if it was a shift on the tree) and if it's not in park/neutral it would prevent the key from physically turning. Not sure if your is like this but grab the column between the key and the dash and try turning it one way or the other while trying the key
Also try moving the shifter a bit to see
If you open the hood and look at the column where it comes out of the firewall you should see an arm coming off with the linkage/cable, check and see if you can wiggle it there and try the key
Just some ideas to try before taking anything apart
Mooser
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From: Toronto Ontario
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Check to see if your car has a shifter interlock cable, and if it is in place and working properly.
The ignition key operates a rod that operates a switch on the lower steering column. If that rod is bent or otherwise misaligned or adjusted, it can cause the same issues. Stick your head under the dash and look for the switch, it is about 3" long, and there will be a harness plugged into it with a bunch of wires on it.
In this pic, you can see the switch in the middle of the column, you can also see the rod that operates it.
The ignition key operates a rod that operates a switch on the lower steering column. If that rod is bent or otherwise misaligned or adjusted, it can cause the same issues. Stick your head under the dash and look for the switch, it is about 3" long, and there will be a harness plugged into it with a bunch of wires on it.
In this pic, you can see the switch in the middle of the column, you can also see the rod that operates it.
Last edited by 7t2vette; Feb 7, 2012 at 07:07 PM.
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From: Flemington NJ
It has the feeling you get sometimes when you have the turn the wheel a bit to take pressure off of the lock mechanism. Usually if you turn the wheel slightly it will release as you turn the key - but maybe something broke. I understand there is no shift interlock on the '80 - my shifter moves freely. Thanks for all of the ideas - I'll try them all - if nothing else I'd like to move the car to a better spot.
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From: Florida
Chances are high that it is not the electrical ignition switch.
More likely the rack and sector gear or the linkages, binding or broken.
Easiest in the long run to to take out the column and go thru it or at least disassemble it in the car.
You can have it so smooth a 3 year old can start it.
Search for Jim Shea posts.
More likely the rack and sector gear or the linkages, binding or broken.
Easiest in the long run to to take out the column and go thru it or at least disassemble it in the car.
You can have it so smooth a 3 year old can start it.
Search for Jim Shea posts.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Flemington NJ
Definetely something mechanical in the column - The key will turn a small fraction - just enough to allow the steering wheel to release, but no further. I'll take it apart this weekend and update my findings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Saginaw Michigan
I'm not trying to be insulting but are you tripping the small lever next to the lock cylinder as you try to rotate the ignition key?
You wouldn't be the first new owner of a 1977+ Corvette to not know about the inhibitor lever.
Your 1977 steering column does not have the cable or interlock lever down under the brake master cylinder.
Jim
You wouldn't be the first new owner of a 1977+ Corvette to not know about the inhibitor lever.
Your 1977 steering column does not have the cable or interlock lever down under the brake master cylinder.
Jim
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From: Flemington NJ
I'm not trying to be insulting but are you tripping the small lever next to the lock cylinder as you try to rotate the ignition key?
You wouldn't be the first new owner of a 1977+ Corvette to not know about the inhibitor lever.
Your 1977 steering column does not have the cable or interlock lever down under the brake master cylinder.
Jim
You wouldn't be the first new owner of a 1977+ Corvette to not know about the inhibitor lever.
Your 1977 steering column does not have the cable or interlock lever down under the brake master cylinder.
Jim
Le Mans Master
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From: Saginaw Michigan
Here are a series of papers, pics, and blowups on disassembly of a 1980 T&T steering column.
Steering wheel & horn parts blowup
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=991
Three Disassembly & Repair Papers
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004
Three Disassembly & Repair Pics
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1009
T&T Steering Column Blowup
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1001
I would start by removing the steering wheel. Then removing the steering column from the car. Then I would remove the ignition switch (on top of the steering column jacket). Disconnect the switch from the ignition rod and then try to rotate the igntion key. If everything frees up, then the problem was the switch itself. Also, if the column hasn't been apart for years, and you now have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate turn signal switch, etc, then you most likely will have to replace the C-clip retainer. (It will most likely break into serveral pieces regardless as to how careful you are in removing it.)
It is the tan part on the steering shaft. It is available from most Corvette suppliers (Zip #SC-517 or Willcox 780838).
Good luck,
Jim
Steering wheel & horn parts blowup
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=991
Three Disassembly & Repair Papers
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004
Three Disassembly & Repair Pics
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1009
T&T Steering Column Blowup
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1001
I would start by removing the steering wheel. Then removing the steering column from the car. Then I would remove the ignition switch (on top of the steering column jacket). Disconnect the switch from the ignition rod and then try to rotate the igntion key. If everything frees up, then the problem was the switch itself. Also, if the column hasn't been apart for years, and you now have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate turn signal switch, etc, then you most likely will have to replace the C-clip retainer. (It will most likely break into serveral pieces regardless as to how careful you are in removing it.)
It is the tan part on the steering shaft. It is available from most Corvette suppliers (Zip #SC-517 or Willcox 780838).
Good luck,
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Feb 8, 2012 at 02:32 PM.
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From: Flemington NJ
Thanks to Jim's info, I was able to pull the keyway out tonight. Follow his notes CLOSELY if you ever try this job, as all of the steps are necessary! Once out, I was able to turn the shaft with long-nose pliers with no issues. I had ordered the new cylinder already, so I should be back together this weekend. Now I just have to remember how it all came apart 
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Lowell MA
Common problem with the redesigned 1979 and up GM side bar ignitions. The spring retainer cap lifts under spring pressure of the tumbler springs which allows it to lodge between the cylinder plug ( part which rotates) and the housing (stationary part the cylinder plug rotates in). You found the answer. Replacing the Ignition Cylinder is the cure.
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From: Flemington NJ
Here's the column with everything removed. Sliding the wiring up inside the column is the trick to create room and gain access. I never would have figured this out without Jim's papers:
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From: Flemington NJ
Finished the ignition key replacement job today - fought through the key buzzer tab trick, the bridge tool ($15 at autozone) - needed to make a short bolt to lock the shaft since the tool doesn't fit over the 'star' bolt - I was very happy to snap on the cover at the end and hook up the battery....and...no horn! I kept an eye on all of the horn contacts during the re-assembly, but something is off. I don't have the energy to dig back into it today, but I traded my horn for the ability to start the car - I'll take that for now
PS - If you're considering doing this job, brace yourself - it just seems much more difficult that it should be just to get to the keyway! Do not touch ANYTHING until you study Jim's detailed directions.
PS - If you're considering doing this job, brace yourself - it just seems much more difficult that it should be just to get to the keyway! Do not touch ANYTHING until you study Jim's detailed directions.
Last edited by drk1313; Feb 11, 2012 at 05:30 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
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From: Saginaw Michigan
For your next assignment! A paper on horn operation diagnosis.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=909#attachments
Good luck and glad to hear that you have fixed the lock cylinder problem.
Jim
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=909#attachments
Good luck and glad to hear that you have fixed the lock cylinder problem.
Jim
