When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Going through one quart every 300 miles...very sad...we just had a baby and I don't want to pour a lot of $ into the '74...as I know someday we'll want an old car with a backseat for the lil' guy...anyhow, there are no leaks, must be burning oil...is that usually a headgasket?
That kind of oil usage in a small block Chevy (In MY experience, anyway) is usually traceable to leaking intake manifold gaskets. Do a compression check just to make sure you don't have any major bottom-end issues like severely worn or broken rings OR blown headgasket(s)...if all's OK then I'd advise removing the intale and replacing the gaskets. Clean everything around the intake ports thoroughly then install the new gaskets with a very thin bead of grey hi-temp RTV around the ports on both sides of the gaskets...you might get a pleasant surprise. Leaking intake joints can suck a ton of oil into the combustion chamber...please don't ask me how I know this!
At least, you can diagnose your problems for no [or very little] money. Did you do any work on the car prior to it using the oil? If not...and you don't know of any "abuse" of the engine that could have caused it...you may want to replace the PCV valve; if it is stuck open, that is a possible cause that can be eliminated by an inexpensive replacement.
Unless your valve seals are just totally shot, I don't think that would use the amount of oil you are losing. If you recently changed valve covers....and the new covers did not have oil-splash baffles below the openings for PCV valve and/or by-pass air hose to air cleaner, the engine will just suck any oil splashed up toward those devices. Also, I would think if you had an intake gasket leak, it would have been doing that since the installation.
Those are some thoughts on your 'issue'. Good luck on the diagnosis. Compression test is a good idea to get a handle on ring/valve issues.
...must be burning oil...is that usually a headgasket?
No. Burning a quart of oil in 300 miles will easily be seen on the spark plugs. It could be gaskets leaking internally, PCV valve stuck, valve stem oil seals, or piston rings. Lets see what the plugs look like.
Not that I might be having the same problem or anything, but just how hard is it to change tihe intake manifold gasket???
A few bolts, set the manifold aside, a new gasket and some RTV, and you're there... How unrealistic is that scenario???
We're talking LT1 here.
Thanks, and sorry for the hi-jack,
Well, pretty much it except you need to remove and reinstall the distributor (risk of losing timing there) and you need to ensure the gasket surfaces are absolutely clean and oil free. Then you want to follow the proper tightening sequence when drawing down the bolts to their proper torque. Knowing how to bleed the air out of the cooling system when refilling can be helpful. But no, not a hard job.
If you don't have stock valve covers check to see if your valve covers have baffles in them. I had this issue before and it was using about 1 quart every 300 miles and smoking. It was sucking the fine spray inside the valve cover into the base plate of the carb through the PCV valve. I had uniform looking spark plugs when I checked them and they just looked like it was running rich.
If those valve covers aren't baffled under the PCV outlet either get rid of them or find a way to install some baffles in them. I have personally experienced the sucking-oil-through-the PCV deal and (unlike the sucking-oil-through-the-intake deal) it belched blue smoke out of the pipes like a locomotive each time the throttle was applied. If you're using lots of oil and not getting a LOT of smoke I doubt it's coming up through the PCV hose.
they're chrome so i would say aftermarket valve covers, hmmmmmm
I have seen some that had baffles but they were not sufficiant to stop the spray. Check the plugs and compression. If they are pretty uniform look at the baffles as a possible problem. Pretty easy fix.
Yes, burning a quart every 300 miles will show on the plugs. So, you can pull the plugs and find they have burnt oil on them.
Then what?
You have received some good advice here. Unless you see evidence of blue smoke coming out of your exhaust, you won't find heavy burnt oil on your plugs. If you do, more than likely you have a ring problem, but you don't mention blue smoke. I had a similar problem, as others who have posted, and it was the intake gasket. Before removing the intake, be sure your rings and seals are not your problem.
Remove your distributor cap and mark the rotor pointer orientation, you will need this on reassembly. Tape and number your wires at the plug end for reassembly, before pulling the distributor. Disconnect wires, hoses and linkage and label as necessary. Remove the intake bolts and pry the intake from one end and remove. If you had a bad gasket, you will see burnt oil residue in an intake port where oil was being sucked from the lifter valley. Clean and replace as described in another post.
If you have a stock intake, check for oil sludge that can be cleaned at this time. You can pull the tin off the intake underside to clean well before replacing. The rivets will pull out, they are on a twisted spline.
Wow.....I just bought a 69 with a 350 cu engine and also was losing 1 qt oil every 300 miles. I just had the valve cover gaskets and valve stem seals replaced. Since getting it back a week ago I've done 300 miles and it's down almost 1/4 inch on the dip stick. So, hopefully I'll get at least 1,000 miles before needing oil.
You have received some good advice here. Unless you see evidence of blue smoke coming out of your exhaust, you won't find heavy burnt oil on your plugs. If you do, more than likely you have a ring problem, but you don't mention blue smoke. I had a similar problem, as others who have posted, and it was the intake gasket. Before removing the intake, be sure your rings and seals are not your problem.
Remove your distributor cap and mark the rotor pointer orientation, you will need this on reassembly. Tape and number your wires at the plug end for reassembly, before pulling the distributor. Disconnect wires, hoses and linkage and label as necessary. Remove the intake bolts and pry the intake from one end and remove. If you had a bad gasket, you will see burnt oil residue in an intake port where oil was being sucked from the lifter valley. Clean and replace as described in another post.
If you have a stock intake, check for oil sludge that can be cleaned at this time. You can pull the tin off the intake underside to clean well before replacing. The rivets will pull out, they are on a twisted spline.
Brace your back when you go to actually lift it out after breaking free all the gasket material holding, the thing is not light.
Just a heads up that if you are only losing a bit every 300 miles now after valve stem seals and external leak prevention, my next guess would be rings and oil by pass. I would look at an intake gasket last if it was me since that type of leak is rare and once it starts to leak past a bad intake gasket much oil will be sucked into the combustion chamber and you would see blue smoke out the exhaust. You should always do a compression check first before doing anything. The valve seals are very common as they get old to leak. I would definitely look elsewhere before even contemplating an intake oil leak...just me.
How many miles on the motor? Gen 1 SBC start getting tired at 50-60,000 miles and usually will be in need of a rebuild after 100,000 miles, if not maintained with top maintenance. You can get 125,000-150,000 miles from these engines but that was not typical.
BTW-My 78 L-82 when knew was known to eat a 1 Qt of oil every 500-1,000 miles....these engines were build very loose
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 27, 2019 at 08:10 PM.
Just a heads up that if you are only losing a bit every 300 miles now after valve stem seals and external leak prevention, my next guess would be rings and oil by pass. I would look at an intake gasket last if it was me since that type of leak is rare and once it starts to leak past a bad intake gasket much oil will be sucked into the combustion chamber and you would see blue smoke out the exhaust. You should always do a compression check first before doing anything. The valve seals are very common as they get old to leak. I would definitely look elsewhere before even contemplating an intake oil leak...just me.
How many miles on the motor? Gen 1 SBC start getting tired at 50-60,000 miles and usually will be in need of a rebuild after 100,000 miles, if not maintained with top maintenance. You can get 125,000-150,000 miles from these engines but that was not typical.
BTW-My 78 L-82 when knew was known to eat a 1 Qt of oil every 500-1,000 miles....these engines were build very loose