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Go to the Web site for Van Steel at http://www.vansteel.com or call Art at 727-561-7399 and get their tape on Brake and Suspension. Runs $20 and will be the best investment you make on C3's for taking apart suspensions and brakes.
Work Safe!!
The problem my bro is having is the mounting bolts are glued to the i.d. of the bushing with rust :U Usually the corrosion releases after you expand and contract the metal a few times with heat. You did soak the hell out of them with penatrating lube didn't you?? Drench them with the stuff while they are hot.
Anyone else have a helpful tip for him. Let's save the jack hammer for last :lol: :reddevil
Go to the Web site for Van Steel at http://www.vansteel.com or call Art at 727-561-7399 and get their tape on Brake and Suspension. Runs $20 and will be the best investment you make on C3's for taking apart suspensions and brakes.
Work Safe!!
I will second this advice. $20 VERY WELL SPENT! Made doing my rear suspension almost painless. Here's a little something for you that may help as well. http://www.c3sharktank.com/tech2/rear1.html One last bit of advice, get a box of ziplock bags...when you take apart something throw all the small parts like nuts and bolts into it then label the bag as to what it's for, it will keep you from kicking bolts around the garage or losing them.
I used both a sawzall and a torch. The sawzall takes forever and uses a lot of blades. The torch can be tricky because of the pocket and the right side has gas lines near it. On the right I torched the rubber out of the way and used the saw-used up about 5 bi-metal 9" blades. The left side I torched out,but had to start stop so as not to light the car on fire! Even with the heat the c bolt wouldn't come out of the bushing. I tried to punch it out when I had it on the bench afterwards- no go!
gary
I used a dremeil with a reinforced cutting wheel to take the bolt off flush, then was able to drive the bolt out with a small drift. Lots cheaper than sawzall blades. :cheers:
One of the things I did was to soak the T-arm bolt like everyone. I managed to get the nut off after cutting the cotter key. The bolt would not budge. I picked up an 8" x 5/8" bolt to use as a large punch. The T-arm bolt had its attitude adjusted with the bolt and a 12 lb hammer. Couple of whacks and the bolt did break loose. Then pried it out with a tool I made like the one on the video that I suggested earlier. No BS this is a PITA job with 30 years of rust and gunk to work off, but it can be done. I would be very careful and think twice before I put a torch to that area of the car with gas lines right next to the frame.
Mine came out relatively easy, but you can use a sawzall if you have to. I used a lot of wd-40 for days prior to loosen them up
Same here. I put penetrating oil on them 3 or 4 times a day for at least a week before I tried removing them. Mine then came out relatively easily. :yesnod: