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oil psi??

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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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From: colonia New jeresy
Default oil psi??

I have a L-82 73 vette. i put a new oil pump in a oem pump and pickup welded the pickup all was good had 65-70 psi with 10w40 oil at about 2500rpm now it stays at 35-40 psi at 2500 rpm .idle its at 25-30 whats going on ?? the idle is the same when i had more pis? thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:36 PM
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Your pressure with the old pump was too high, it sounds. Bubba must have visited.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 377
I have a L-82 73 vette. i put a new oil pump in a oem pump and pickup welded the pickup all was good had 65-70 psi with 10w40 oil at about 2500rpm now it stays at 35-40 psi at 2500 rpm .idle its at 25-30 whats going on ?? the idle is the same when i had more pis? thanks

What exactly is the new pump? Make and model #.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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keep in mind, the late Smokey Yunick said that 10 psi per 1000 rpm is plenty for an engine. at 65-70 psi, i would be seriously worried about washing out bearings...
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Aflac
keep in mind, the late Smokey Yunick said that 10 psi per 1000 rpm is plenty for an engine. at 65-70 psi, i would be seriously worried about washing out bearings...
What is "washing out bearings"
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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see this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-bearings.html
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Default my 2c

I agree with Mike that the previous pump was a high volume pump, but I disagree that the old pressure was too high, although unnecessary. A relatively small increase in pump volume gives a substantial increase in pressure.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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From the 1974 Owner's Manual (p. 25):

Readings of 30 to 40 psi may be considered normal during moderate road speeds of 35 to 40 mph with the engine at proper operating temperature.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
From the 1974 Owner's Manual (p. 25):

Readings of 30 to 40 psi may be considered normal during moderate road speeds of 35 to 40 mph with the engine at proper operating temperature.
And there you have it. The stock pump at the stock flow and pressure is all the engine needs for a good long healthy life. More is not always better.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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With Mike Ward!
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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Yep, probably an HV pump.

That additional pressure costs power - how much is subject to debate, but it's not useful regardless. Pressure is just resistance to flow...and flow is what keeps your engine lubricated.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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The only issue I have ever seen with a Hv pump on a stock pan.. Is prolonged high speed running has the ability to pump the pan dry.. Forcing the pump to occasionally cavitate....which will wear the pump..but I have never seen it on a street car..
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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I'm open to specific cases where an HV pump was proven to be root cause, but I have personally yet to see an HV pump "pump the pan dry". It's not clear to me how it could; the drainback system in the GEN I SBC is pretty good, and HV pumps are in bypass above about 4500 RPM regardless.

Not to say that cavitation isn't an issue on the GEN I SBC...the stock pan/pickup wasn't designed for the kind of cornering forces folks achieve with these cars using modern suspension and tires. But the cavitation failures I've seen have been due from that, or from improperly installed pickups...or just low oil level.

Any GEN I that's really pushed hard (or is just really expen$ive) should have an Accusump plumbed into it anyway
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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The starving of the pump, if it happens, is from improper baffling in the oil pan, not drainback. If you have an engine that is driven under those conditions then accusump or dry sump is ideal.

Smokey did all kinds of photographic tests for oiling and if I remember correctly his conclusion was for 10psi/1000rpms at the rod bearings, not at the pump outlet and stock oiling was fine for stock engines. He also saw only 1 qt in the upper end of the engine. Crank scrapers were most important to returning oil.

Stock relief pressure was 59 psi, so as long as you stayed below that, you were never in bypass mode, rpm was irrelevant. Never saw stock Gen1 engines achieve that.
BTW, you never want to run over the relief pressure extended, whatever you may have it set at.

Factory z28 had relief springs of 70psi (they called it a high pressure pump) so there obviously were some feelings at GM that higher pressures were useful on new engines.
Ford on some engines set at 125 psi.

Melling data showed that a 125% HV pump uses 8HP, but I don't remember at what rpm.

Here's some info from Melling.
Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump.
The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing.

A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter.

The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine.

Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster.

That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do.

It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out.

It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top.

It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment.

It will not cause foaming of the oil. With any oil pump, the excess oil not needed by the engine is recirculated within the pump. Any additional foaming is usually created by revving the engine higher. The oil thrown from the rod bearings is going faster and causes the foaming. This is why high performance engines use a windage tray.

It will not cause spark scatter. Because of the pump pressure there is a load on the distributor gear. The number of teeth on the oil pump gears determine the number of impulses per revolution of the pump. In a SB Chevy there are seven teeth on each gear giving 14 impulses per revolution. At 6000 RPM the oil pump is turning 3000 RPM or 50 revolutions per second. To have an effect on the distributor, these impulses would have to vibrate the distributor gear through an intermediate shaft that has loose connections at both ends. Spark scatter is usually caused by weak springs in the points or dust inside the distributor cap.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 05:44 PM
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From: colonia New jeresy
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the gm pump i put in was a 69 z/28 302 the pump had a white spring. my oem pump i took out had the same color but it was broken so i had very little oil pressure. i ran the car for about 1000 miles with 60-70 psi at 3000 rpm the car sat 4 about 3-4 months then started to drive it and then i noticed the pis drop.the pan in my car is a gm L-82 pan 5 qt with a windage tray its what came in the car new i dont know what happend it makes me nervice is the motor going to lock up one day while im on a road trip?
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 377
the gm pump i put in was a 69 z/28 302 the pump had a white spring. my oem pump i took out had the same color but it was broken so i had very little oil pressure. i ran the car for about 1000 miles with 60-70 psi at 3000 rpm the car sat 4 about 3-4 months then started to drive it and then i noticed the pis drop.the pan in my car is a gm L-82 pan 5 qt with a windage tray its what came in the car new i dont know what happend it makes me nervice is the motor going to lock up one day while im on a road trip?
I wouldn't worry about the 35-40 psi, that pretty normal.
What is troubling is the sudden drop in pressure for no apparent reason.
If mine, I would pull the pan and find the reason. The GM white spring is equivalent to the Melling pink, 70psi.
Check pressure with another gauge first.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 377
the gm pump i put in was a 69 z/28 302 the pump had a white spring. my oem pump i took out had the same color but it was broken so i had very little oil pressure. i ran the car for about 1000 miles with 60-70 psi at 3000 rpm the car sat 4 about 3-4 months then started to drive it and then i noticed the pis drop.the pan in my car is a gm L-82 pan 5 qt with a windage tray its what came in the car new i dont know what happend it makes me nervice is the motor going to lock up one day while im on a road trip?
You ran the oil 1000 miles then the car sat for 3-4 months. The drop could very well be viscocity breakdown. I used to run valvolene and noticed a substantial decrease in PSI in a short time due to viscocity breakdown.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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From: colonia New jeresy
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Originally Posted by 63mako
You ran the oil 1000 miles then the car sat for 3-4 months. The drop could very well be viscocity breakdown. I used to run valvolene and noticed a substantial decrease in PSI in a short time due to viscocity breakdown.
yes the same oil. maybe i will do a oil change . i run 10w40 i will try to do it next weak
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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All my bearing are washed out, oiled and installed even the cam bearings then I install a 3/4 race cam.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:01 AM
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From: colonia New jeresy
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i was reading the replys and went in the shop i started the car let it run at idle for about 10 min .got in the car hit the gas and the oil psi went up and was back to 60 psi at about 3000 rpm dont know what changed but its back. when i rev the motor the oil press follows. could it be their was air in the line going to the gauge??
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