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Use Isky EZ roll bushed lifters and you won't have to. With needle bearings, I wouldn't think there is any lifter on the market that will run over 15-20K miles before comming apart.
Just make sure your sitting down when you price the Isky lifters.
I would say he is probably giving you good advice. Although, I have heard more like 5000 miles or so as long as you check them periodically as well as lash adjustment. You can have them rebuilt. Guess it really depends on the type of engine and what your doing with it.
Myself, I am in the middle of swapping my solid roller set to a hydr roller. I had a lifter fail on me at 1100 miles and it wiped a cam lobe and littered the engine with metal shavings.
Combination of high spring pressure, lack of oil splash, low rpms, and lifter bore clearance are some of the culprits. The fact I have an OD trans probably did not help.
Motorhead says he physically inspects his at least once or twice a year.
I had the needle bearings from Isky but as Hamadup mentioned the Red Zone EZ-roll are needle free. But be prepared to spend $$$ for them.
Provide the specs to your engine. Many will chime in with opinions.
They will generally last much longer in a small block than a big block. The bigger the lift, heavier the springs, heavier the valves, faster the ramp and higher the RPM the quicker wear and damage on all valvetrain components accumulates. They all wear out but the above factors will determine how fast. Billet cams only with solid rollers.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Never have run a solid roller on the street before, but as I've got such a build in the works (still waiting on the money tree to start bearing fruit again) I'm sure interested in knowing if any failures experienced here involved EDM oilers and/or restricted upper oil. FWIW, 427 with limiter to be at 7200, tho I won't be buzzing it that high all the time.
Also, are those Isky's aluminum with bronze bushings at the trunion? If so, maybe things have changed, but the shaft-mounted and bushed type we used to run in our BB Buick drag motors had such short lives that we kept a tool box full of them on hand (still have a bunch of 'em).
427Hotrod / Jim has run solid rollers for years, so perhaps he'll chime in here too.
EDIT - Please, excuse the brain fart. For whatever reason I was confusing the Isky's with the bronze bushed rockers mentioned above...
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Feb 17, 2012 at 09:10 PM.
They really make power and RPM, if your willing to do what it takes as far as maintanence and inspections. I have run a solid flat tappet but never a solid roller. Have built a few and a lot of buddies with them and they are running fast.
I have a mechanic here who tells me if I do the solid lifter roller cam - I will have to replace the lifters about every 3000 mile - Is this so?
REPLACE lifters... no. if you did have to replace the lifters, you HAVE to replace the cam too. They wear in together. NEVER put new lifters on an old cam.
A solid lifter cam WILL require periodic adjustment of the valve lash. I had a solid lifter cam in a 427. During break-in, I had to adjust the lash maybe three times. after that, not so often. Maybe one month after break-in and then maybe two months after that. Been 15 years and I really don't remember much after that. I do seem to remember it the time interval doubling after every adjustment: once week, two weeks, a month, two months, four months, etc.
It depends on what the cam is and all the supporting parts. With a solid street roller (.623" lift) and relatively mild lobes I've been 10K miles on lifters. With the sort of cams I run in my motor (.788" lift) and pretty god lobes...but not crazy ones...I seem to get 4500-5500 miles out of a set of lifters before they start to show signs of wear. That is detected when I ck valves and one or more is .002" or so different than all the rest. When that happens, you pull the lifter and you WILL feel some roughness in the needles/roller. Changing it at that time will have you right back in business..but the rest of them aren't going to be far behind. My current cam is over 10 years old and has had quite a few sets of lifters on it. It's just part of the deal.
The EZ rolls will help a lot too. Mine are regular needle type (pressurized). I did a 388" for a buddy of mine a year or so ago with EZ rolls and they are still doing fine...and he shifts at 7000+ ALL the time and drives on the street every weekend as well as takes trips. It's a pretty serious .600"+ cam. As mentioned, small block do a lot better than big blocks.
It depends on what the cam is and all the supporting parts. With a solid street roller (.623" lift) and relatively mild lobes I've been 10K miles on lifters. With the sort of cams I run in my motor (.788" lift) and pretty god lobes...but not crazy ones...I seem to get 4500-5500 miles out of a set of lifters before they start to show signs of wear. That is detected when I ck valves and one or more is .002" or so different than all the rest. When that happens, you pull the lifter and you WILL feel some roughness in the needles/roller. Changing it at that time will have you right back in business..but the rest of them aren't going to be far behind. My current cam is over 10 years old and has had quite a few sets of lifters on it. It's just part of the deal.
The EZ rolls will help a lot too. Mine are regular needle type (pressurized). I did a 388" for a buddy of mine a year or so ago with EZ rolls and they are still doing fine...and he shifts at 7000+ ALL the time and drives on the street every weekend as well as takes trips. It's a pretty serious .600"+ cam. As mentioned, small block do a lot better than big blocks.
JIM
I AGREE 100% I pulled the Crane solid roller lifters out of my 72 LT-1 at about 6200 miles (cam was an Ultradyne roller 580 int/540 exh lift not too severe) and felt some bad needle bearings so, I swapped to Comp Cams lifters, after another 7K miles they too were showing signs of not liking to idle at stoplights. My motor idled at 950-1000RPM and was fed Castrol Syntec oil, after talking to my buddy who builds USAC midget and Silver Crown motors, I had to agree with his assesment that solid rollers don't like to idle. He tried to convince me to put a hydraulic roller into my LT-1 HA! NO EFFING WAY! We went with Isky EZ rolls on this build and he has been using them in 9400RPM USAC motors for 2 years now with good rsults, if fact he is going away from his preferred Jesel lifters to EZ rolls in most builds now.
Run the Morel HTL (Hydraulic Travel Limited) it will run 8500rpm. Would ask some of the custom cam guys this question before taking internet advice for fact.
4000-5000 miles out of a set of $700+ lifters is freakin ridiculous.... I can understand having to set lash every 2-3k miles but changing lifters at 4-5k? No freakin way... Not for me...
No doubt solid rollers are the way to go for big power and high rpm use, especially on a big block but..... It's just not feasible for me... I put 4-5k miles on a year, therefore I would be changing/rebuilding lifters every year? I don't think so.....
I'll stay with my low rpm, valve floating HYD roller that I don't have to F with....if I need to run 9s, I'll spray it... (for less then the cost of one set of solid rollers....lol)
You can get em rebuilt for a few hundred.
I see your point depends on needs.
Will take me forever to put 5k on (probably 2-3 yrs) so worth it for me.
Probably get bored before then and change up anyway.
Eventually they will get these SR lifters down or the tech up on the HR to spin em up without floating.
I would say he is probably giving you good advice. Although, I have heard more like 5000 miles or so as long as you check them periodically as well as lash adjustment. You can have them rebuilt. Guess it really depends on the type of engine and what your doing with it.
Myself, I am in the middle of swapping my solid roller set to a hydr roller. I had a lifter fail on me at 1100 miles and it wiped a cam lobe and littered the engine with metal shavings.
Combination of high spring pressure, lack of oil splash, low rpms, and lifter bore clearance are some of the culprits. The fact I have an OD trans probably did not help.
Motorhead says he physically inspects his at least once or twice a year.
I had the needle bearings from Isky but as Hamadup mentioned the Red Zone EZ-roll are needle free. But be prepared to spend $$$ for them.
Provide the specs to your engine. Many will chime in with opinions.
On Isky lifters I have found them to be right at .841 for size and the middle spec on GM lifter bores is .844 and .003 clearance is just to much. With that much clearance they are not going to last!!! Plus putting roller lifters in the older blocks that have short lifter bore makes fitting them a must.
Most guys just buy lifters and dump them into the bores which is a big mistake most blocks more so on the BBC the engines with high miles on them the lifters bores are worn out to begin with.
Like I said most after market .842 lifters run .841 check a GM lifter for size and check the after market one for a comparater. That being said the Morels seem to run close to the OEM size over the ISKY, Crower, Crane.
90% of my builds now I go to the .904 lifters where I can fit the lifters to the desired clearance of .0014 to .0019 plus with the bigger wheel and bigger bodies and bigger axel its a winner every time.
I don't think those lifters will mileage out as fast as a smaller lifter!!!
I see alot of Marine BBC's that at 500 hours of sevice have to changed or they will break a lifter for sure. Even those lifters at 500 hours look great because they are fitted.
Eventually they will get these SR lifters down or the tech up on the HR to spin em up without floating.
The tech is there to get 7000+ rpm out of them. The New LS7 has a 7000 RPM redline. Reducing valvetrain weight with beehive springs, lightweight rocker, valves, titanium retainers and anti pump up lifters will get you there.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by 63mako
They will generally last much longer in a small block than a big block. The bigger the lift, heavier the springs, heavier the valves, faster the ramp and higher the RPM the quicker wear and damage on all valvetrain components accumulates. They all wear out but the above factors will determine how fast. Billet cams only with solid rollers.
This is all true, I got over 20,000 miles on a set of Comp Cams 818's which were the original solid roller that had no oiling hole and realid on splash from the crank and oil dripping down through the holes in the valley. I was also brilliant enough to put oil restrictors in to keep more of the oil in the middle of the motor
There's allot of people out there that shouldn't be building motors or giving advice. If it was a race only motor with over 200# on the seat and over 500# open your rolling the dice every time you go down the track or every oval track race.
There are street rollers and race rollers, take your pick I am somewhere in the middle with my current motor and it will spin to 7500 RPM and I don't worry