which cam for 1969tripower???
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
which cam for 1969tripower???
Hello Guys,
Im in the process of restoring a 1969 covette with the tripower setup. I have all of the stuff (block,heads,crank,tripower)at the shop ready to be put together but, i have a question of which cam would be best for my car. I have read that the power range for the tripower is from 3000-6000rpms. I will be driving this car around town, from street light to street light. I am a little concerned about putting the orig spec cam into the car with the high rpm power range. Does anyone suggest another cam that wont srew-up the vaccumm but, will provide a lower power range for street driving? maybe something around 1500-4500?? but also cut out on power? I really don't want something hard to make run either..... is there such a cam...??? hyd or solid lifter??
I am not the most mechanically inclined person and the mechanic said he could find one but, that makes me a little worried. I think the cam is what really makes or breaks a car.
one other question is what kind of oil pump should I be putting in? I have heard that a high volume pump is the best but, I have also heard that you can blow out the cam with too much pressure?? is that true?
\
Thanks and look forward to the feedback.
Im in the process of restoring a 1969 covette with the tripower setup. I have all of the stuff (block,heads,crank,tripower)at the shop ready to be put together but, i have a question of which cam would be best for my car. I have read that the power range for the tripower is from 3000-6000rpms. I will be driving this car around town, from street light to street light. I am a little concerned about putting the orig spec cam into the car with the high rpm power range. Does anyone suggest another cam that wont srew-up the vaccumm but, will provide a lower power range for street driving? maybe something around 1500-4500?? but also cut out on power? I really don't want something hard to make run either..... is there such a cam...??? hyd or solid lifter??
I am not the most mechanically inclined person and the mechanic said he could find one but, that makes me a little worried. I think the cam is what really makes or breaks a car.
one other question is what kind of oil pump should I be putting in? I have heard that a high volume pump is the best but, I have also heard that you can blow out the cam with too much pressure?? is that true?
\
Thanks and look forward to the feedback.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Hello Guys,
Im in the process of restoring a 1969 covette with the tripower setup. I have all of the stuff (block,heads,crank,tripower)at the shop ready to be put together but, i have a question of which cam would be best for my car. I have read that the power range for the tripower is from 3000-6000rpms. I will be driving this car around town, from street light to street light. I am a little concerned about putting the orig spec cam into the car with the high rpm power range. Does anyone suggest another cam that wont srew-up the vaccumm but, will provide a lower power range for street driving? maybe something around 1500-4500?? but also cut out on power? I really don't want something hard to make run either..... is there such a cam...??? hyd or solid lifter??
I am not the most mechanically inclined person and the mechanic said he could find one but, that makes me a little worried. I think the cam is what really makes or breaks a car.
one other question is what kind of oil pump should I be putting in? I have heard that a high volume pump is the best but, I have also heard that you can blow out the cam with too much pressure?? is that true?
\
Thanks and look forward to the feedback.
Im in the process of restoring a 1969 covette with the tripower setup. I have all of the stuff (block,heads,crank,tripower)at the shop ready to be put together but, i have a question of which cam would be best for my car. I have read that the power range for the tripower is from 3000-6000rpms. I will be driving this car around town, from street light to street light. I am a little concerned about putting the orig spec cam into the car with the high rpm power range. Does anyone suggest another cam that wont srew-up the vaccumm but, will provide a lower power range for street driving? maybe something around 1500-4500?? but also cut out on power? I really don't want something hard to make run either..... is there such a cam...??? hyd or solid lifter??
I am not the most mechanically inclined person and the mechanic said he could find one but, that makes me a little worried. I think the cam is what really makes or breaks a car.
one other question is what kind of oil pump should I be putting in? I have heard that a high volume pump is the best but, I have also heard that you can blow out the cam with too much pressure?? is that true?
\
Thanks and look forward to the feedback.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
the GM BB solid lifter cam...is one of the best....you don't need that fancy roller crap hydraulic or solid....Every thing is readily available through GM performance and its the same cam in your engine if its a 435 hp....its a really fun cam as it runs like a SOB automatic or manual from red lites and almost maintenance free setup ...also 'Sealed Power sells the same cam...just get with a 'smart' auto parts store locally and obtain the correct stuff
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
If you cant afford a roller there is nothing wrong with a hyd. FT cam.
Should be about maintenance free and never have a worry in that power range. Roller is best though
Just dont get toooo caught up in super crazy ramp rates imo thats whats killing so many cams out there these days. Youll never miss 5-10 lbs torque.
Should be about maintenance free and never have a worry in that power range. Roller is best though
Just dont get toooo caught up in super crazy ramp rates imo thats whats killing so many cams out there these days. Youll never miss 5-10 lbs torque.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
It is a 40 year old design. It was "one of the best" then. Now a modern lobe designed hydraulic roller will give you an extra 30-40 ft lbs of torque though the operating rpm range of the cam at the rpm you want the power in. No longer need to wind your $15,000 engine to 7000 rpm to get peak hp. Look at picture # 2 of the lobes. These 2 cams are similar duration. Many roller designs compared to flat tappet durations are similar advertised duration and duration @ .050. Where the real difference is is duration @ .200, .300, within .100 of max lift. The roller cam snaps the valves open faster, holds them open longer and snaps them closed quicker. This allows much better cylinder filling than the flat tappet design with the advantages of reduced friction, never needing to adjust lifters, worry about high zddp oil, break in, wiping lobes or the excessive wear that happens with a lash requirement. The one disadvantage is you can't wind them as high. The big advantage is you don't have to. It is an extra $3-400 to go roller over flat tappet today. http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/camsh...pet-vs-roller/.
Edit: With the beehive springs the roller will rev to 6500 RPM.
Edit: With the beehive springs the roller will rev to 6500 RPM.
Last edited by 63mako; Feb 16, 2012 at 02:41 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you want to go completely stock for purposes of originality, select a cam supplier and request a cam that duplicates the original. But, if you want a little better 'around town' economy, good low rpm power and you no longer care about winding it "tighter than a two-dollar clock", tell the cam tech that's what you prefer and he/she will order a proper cam for that purpose.
For the latter configuration, I would think you would also want hydraulic lifters...and, if you can afford it, going to a roller lifter/cam setup would assure better durability/reliability/performance.
For the latter configuration, I would think you would also want hydraulic lifters...and, if you can afford it, going to a roller lifter/cam setup would assure better durability/reliability/performance.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,096
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
It is a 40 year old design. It was "one of the best" then. Now a modern lobe designed hydraulic roller will give you an extra 30-40 ft lbs of torque though the operating rpm range of the cam at the rpm you want the power in. No longer need to wind your $15,000 engine to 7000 rpm to get peak hp. Look at picture # 2 of the lobes. These 2 cams are similar duration. Many roller designs compared to flat tappet durations are similar advertised duration and duration @ .050. Where the real difference is is duration @ .200, .300, within .100 of max lift. The roller cam snaps the valves open faster, holds them open longer and snaps them closed quicker. This allows much better cylinder filling than the flat tappet design with the advantages of reduced friction, never needing to adjust lifters, worry about high zddp oil, break in, wiping lobes or the excessive wear that happens with a lash requirement. The one disadvantage is you can't wind them as high. The big advantage is you don't have to. It is an extra $3-400 to go roller over flat tappet today. http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/camsh...pet-vs-roller/.
Edit: With the beehive springs the roller will rev to 6500 RPM.
Edit: With the beehive springs the roller will rev to 6500 RPM.
It sounds like you're not a candidate for solid lifters if you're not mechanically inclined. It's not that hard to adjust solids but you'd probably be more comfortable not having to worry about it and you don't really want to run real high RPMs anyway. If you do select a solid FT cam there are some nice modern designs that will give you better overall performance than the old factory cam. Ultimately, if the extra cost is not a factor you'd get great performance and street manners with a hyd. roller like 63mako recommended. He's done a good job of telling you the advantages. You might as well let that bigblock breathe and make power after the cost and effort of a rebuild.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 207
From: Loveland, CO
I am thinking about going the same route as "hot427" with my '69 L71, and go to a slightly hotter hyd. roller. I want a bit more performance and eliminate the oil issues. I rebuilt it a few years ago, but have not been happy with the milder flat tappet I put in it (Compcam no. 11-217-4, 224 duration at .05"). So, I will be watching to see what recommendations come up.
63mako, I got a flashback by viewing the website you referenced. I think I got the last engine out of T&L Engines before they went bankrupt. Lots of guys lost a lot of money. The 347" Ford I got from them for my Factory Five Cobra replicar is a great engine, but I sweat bullets for over a year to get it.
Ralph
63mako, I got a flashback by viewing the website you referenced. I think I got the last engine out of T&L Engines before they went bankrupt. Lots of guys lost a lot of money. The 347" Ford I got from them for my Factory Five Cobra replicar is a great engine, but I sweat bullets for over a year to get it.
Ralph
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,100
Likes: 12
From: Frederick Maryland
Be careful what you pick. My '69 L71 has an L88 camshaft in it installed by the previous owner. It makes for a very cranky engine...lots of top end but somewhat weaker low end, though the 427 does make for more than adequate torque.
You might look into Lunati Voodoo cams. While I have no personal experience with them, I have heard many, many good things about them. Their asymmetric cam lobe design is supposed to give plenty of power without poor idle and low vacuum. Give their techs a call and see what they recommend.
You might look into Lunati Voodoo cams. While I have no personal experience with them, I have heard many, many good things about them. Their asymmetric cam lobe design is supposed to give plenty of power without poor idle and low vacuum. Give their techs a call and see what they recommend.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
keep in mind with the corvette you have lots of vacuum operated componets,
If you go with a big lift cam, you will loose the ability to pull good vacuum.
and your vacuum componets will suck, and not in a good way.
If you go with a big lift cam, you will loose the ability to pull good vacuum.
and your vacuum componets will suck, and not in a good way.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
the GM BB solid lifter cam...is one of the best....you don't need that fancy roller crap hydraulic or solid....Every thing is readily available through GM performance and its the same cam in your engine if its a 435 hp....its a really fun cam as it runs like a SOB automatic or manual from red lites and almost maintenance free setup ...also 'Sealed Power sells the same cam...just get with a 'smart' auto parts store locally and obtain the correct stuff
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
HYD roller is the way to go and worth the extra expense. More power, better street manners, better vacuum, no maintenance and they last forever. The key to them is to have good HYD roller lifters like Morels, have proper spring rates and good quality springs/material...Ofcourse good valve train geometry is required. No reason to get crazy on the cam.....you'll make more power with a roller and less hassle. Just keep the rpms to 6200-6300 and you'll be fine with the HYD roller.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Holy cow. THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! for the feedback.
To answer a few questions the motor I am building is the 435 hp L71 motor,. I have the 512 4 bolt main block that is .04 over with the 6223 crank 20/20. also the 840 heads which i think will be 11:1 compression maybe 11.5:1 compression. Should I put harden seats into the heads??? I still have time before the motor is built. I have the tripower square port intake manifold that was rebuilt by bob knuz. I will have 4: 11 gears in a mincie 4 speed m21 trans. Im not sure wide or close ratio??
Can anyone give me specific part numbers that you would recommend??
Thanks so much once again. you guys are gggggreat!
To answer a few questions the motor I am building is the 435 hp L71 motor,. I have the 512 4 bolt main block that is .04 over with the 6223 crank 20/20. also the 840 heads which i think will be 11:1 compression maybe 11.5:1 compression. Should I put harden seats into the heads??? I still have time before the motor is built. I have the tripower square port intake manifold that was rebuilt by bob knuz. I will have 4: 11 gears in a mincie 4 speed m21 trans. Im not sure wide or close ratio??
Can anyone give me specific part numbers that you would recommend??
Thanks so much once again. you guys are gggggreat!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
I would take a good look at your compression... With iron heads I would not have it at 11-1+... You really will need to measure everything out and see what compression you REALLY have...then pick the cam accordingly....
If you get the compression well into the 11-1 range, you will need a pretty significant cam to bleed off cylinder pressure... Otherwise that thing will be rattling like crazy...
With iron heads, I would try to get your compression around 10.0, then do a nice hyd roller, something in the 236/242*, .600-625" range on a 110lsa would probably work well in a 427..... Some headwork would go along way. I wouldnt worry about the hardened seats assuming your current seats are in good condition.
Its all about the combination.... A solid flat tappet would make good power in a 427 and you could spin it to 7000k+ to get the power but.....the HYD roller would likely be a lot more liveable for low maintenance and better power below 6500...
If you get the compression well into the 11-1 range, you will need a pretty significant cam to bleed off cylinder pressure... Otherwise that thing will be rattling like crazy...
With iron heads, I would try to get your compression around 10.0, then do a nice hyd roller, something in the 236/242*, .600-625" range on a 110lsa would probably work well in a 427..... Some headwork would go along way. I wouldnt worry about the hardened seats assuming your current seats are in good condition.
Its all about the combination.... A solid flat tappet would make good power in a 427 and you could spin it to 7000k+ to get the power but.....the HYD roller would likely be a lot more liveable for low maintenance and better power below 6500...
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Holy cow. THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! for the feedback.
To answer a few questions the motor I am building is the 435 hp L71 motor,. I have the 512 4 bolt main block that is .04 over with the 6223 crank 20/20. also the 840 heads which i think will be 11:1 compression maybe 11.5:1 compression. Should I put harden seats into the heads??? I still have time before the motor is built. I have the tripower square port intake manifold that was rebuilt by bob knuz. I will have 4: 11 gears in a mincie 4 speed m21 trans. Im not sure wide or close ratio??
Can anyone give me specific part numbers that you would recommend??
Thanks so much once again. you guys are gggggreat!
To answer a few questions the motor I am building is the 435 hp L71 motor,. I have the 512 4 bolt main block that is .04 over with the 6223 crank 20/20. also the 840 heads which i think will be 11:1 compression maybe 11.5:1 compression. Should I put harden seats into the heads??? I still have time before the motor is built. I have the tripower square port intake manifold that was rebuilt by bob knuz. I will have 4: 11 gears in a mincie 4 speed m21 trans. Im not sure wide or close ratio??
Can anyone give me specific part numbers that you would recommend??
Thanks so much once again. you guys are gggggreat!
Cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-121615-12/
Spring http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=477&gid=192 You will need retainers
Lifters http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-15854-16/
Last edited by 63mako; Feb 16, 2012 at 09:45 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
~10.25:1 CR and match a modern cam up to it; also considering wider LSA. My $.02.
Slightly OT, but since you noted your ###6223 crank, was it re-nitrided after cutting that far thru the hardened surface?
Slightly OT, but since you noted your ###6223 crank, was it re-nitrided after cutting that far thru the hardened surface?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,096
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
Be careful what you pick. My '69 L71 has an L88 camshaft in it installed by the previous owner. It makes for a very cranky engine...lots of top end but somewhat weaker low end, though the 427 does make for more than adequate torque.
You might look into Lunati Voodoo cams. While I have no personal experience with them, I have heard many, many good things about them. Their asymmetric cam lobe design is supposed to give plenty of power without poor idle and low vacuum. Give their techs a call and see what they recommend.
You might look into Lunati Voodoo cams. While I have no personal experience with them, I have heard many, many good things about them. Their asymmetric cam lobe design is supposed to give plenty of power without poor idle and low vacuum. Give their techs a call and see what they recommend.
Actually, upon closer inspection the lash is .026 on both sides for my cam but I run them at a snug .024, and the exhaust lift on my card is .601. Small differences. Lunati bought a bunch of cam designs from Harold after he closed his doors and this is one of them.
Last edited by Les; Feb 16, 2012 at 11:02 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I would get you into a lot better RPM range to drop compression a little with a smaller dome piston. 10 to 1, 10.25 to 1 will let you pick a cam that works much better for your build. Cam I recommended really should have a little less compression. Now, during the design stage, before pistons are bought, is the time to get your compression down.
Last edited by 63mako; Feb 18, 2012 at 10:42 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Our 70 LT-1 has a decent size Ultradyne solid cam with 243int/247exh@0.050 lift. The motor is 10.25:1 compression, on a hot day or with a load of bad fuel, run-on detonation can be a problem. Your big block would be much happier at 9.5:1 compression if you plan on running on pump gas. I would definatley do hardened exhaust seats and pay for a "pocket port" clean-up of your heads. The cam Les picked out should be a pretty good runner but, I would expect some carb tuning will be required when everything is back in place.
You should look into the secondary carb metering plates that allow you to use regular Holley jets in the secondary carbs, I wish those were around in my Mopar Six Pack tuning days. Here is the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-34-3/
You should look into the secondary carb metering plates that allow you to use regular Holley jets in the secondary carbs, I wish those were around in my Mopar Six Pack tuning days. Here is the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-34-3/
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
cam specs
Hello guys,
I know I asked the question a while ago about what cam is best. This is what my mechanic recommended; what do you think of this cam in a 427-435hp car? Tripower
Comp cam
Part # 11-213-3
grind number : cb 292H-10
int exh
Valve adj hyd hyd
Gross valve lift .550 .550
Duration @
0.006 tappet lift 292 292
Valve timing open close
@ .006 int 40 btdc 72 ABDC
exh: 80 bbdc 32 ATDC
These specs are for cam installed
@ 106.0 intake center line
intake ehx
Duration @ .050 244 244
lobe lift .3230 .3230
lobe separation 110.0
924-16 springs required
Thanks
I know I asked the question a while ago about what cam is best. This is what my mechanic recommended; what do you think of this cam in a 427-435hp car? Tripower
Comp cam
Part # 11-213-3
grind number : cb 292H-10
int exh
Valve adj hyd hyd
Gross valve lift .550 .550
Duration @
0.006 tappet lift 292 292
Valve timing open close
@ .006 int 40 btdc 72 ABDC
exh: 80 bbdc 32 ATDC
These specs are for cam installed
@ 106.0 intake center line
intake ehx
Duration @ .050 244 244
lobe lift .3230 .3230
lobe separation 110.0
924-16 springs required
Thanks