My stuck ignition key thread
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
My stuck ignition key thread
So, I am one of the many who has suffered having my key stuck in the ignition lock cylinder. This happened quite a while ago, but as it turned out, my alternator charging wire was not hooked up.
This matters because once I ran another wire from the alternator to the starter lug, my battery disconnect no longer would work to kill the engine. The lock cylinder will only move between start and run, and accordingly, with the wire putting voltage to the starter lug from the alternator, the ignition never losts power, even without the battery.
I figured this out with the engine running, of course.
I disconnected the main power to the distributor/coil to kill the engine, but clearly I am now out of options and need to fix the ignition lock, which I was hoping to delay until I started in on the interior.
I have read some of Jim Shea's posts and links to walk through how to get to the lock cylinder and remove it, but I wanted to check to see if there might need to be anything I need to do to fix the problem apart from replacing the lock cylinder.
Thanks.
I did note that plastic retainer for the turn signal cancelling cam will need to be replaced as well as it is likely to disintegrate.
This matters because once I ran another wire from the alternator to the starter lug, my battery disconnect no longer would work to kill the engine. The lock cylinder will only move between start and run, and accordingly, with the wire putting voltage to the starter lug from the alternator, the ignition never losts power, even without the battery.
I figured this out with the engine running, of course.
I disconnected the main power to the distributor/coil to kill the engine, but clearly I am now out of options and need to fix the ignition lock, which I was hoping to delay until I started in on the interior.
I have read some of Jim Shea's posts and links to walk through how to get to the lock cylinder and remove it, but I wanted to check to see if there might need to be anything I need to do to fix the problem apart from replacing the lock cylinder.
Thanks.
I did note that plastic retainer for the turn signal cancelling cam will need to be replaced as well as it is likely to disintegrate.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Mine is an '81 with tilt/telescope. I believe the cable interlock was on earlier models. Mine has a toggle on the side of the steering column that you press to rotate the cylinder back.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Sounds like you have the job covered. Getting to the ignition cylinder isn't too bad. Make sure you've got the battery disconnected because there's lots of good ways to blow fuses while you're in there.
You'll need a hub puller and lock plate puller to do the job. You should also buy a 1-1.25" 5/16 stud to thread into the upper column shaft so that the column doesn't telescope while you're compressing the lock plate. I just used a bolt and cut the head off, and gave it a little extra torque with a vise grip to "lock" the telescoping feature.
You'll need a hub puller and lock plate puller to do the job. You should also buy a 1-1.25" 5/16 stud to thread into the upper column shaft so that the column doesn't telescope while you're compressing the lock plate. I just used a bolt and cut the head off, and gave it a little extra torque with a vise grip to "lock" the telescoping feature.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Sounds like you have the job covered. Getting to the ignition cylinder isn't too bad. Make sure you've got the battery disconnected because there's lots of good ways to blow fuses while you're in there.
You'll need a hub puller and lock plate puller to do the job. You should also buy a 1-1.25" 5/16 stud to thread into the upper column shaft so that the column doesn't telescope while you're compressing the lock plate. I just used a bolt and cut the head off, and gave it a little extra torque with a vise grip to "lock" the telescoping feature.
You'll need a hub puller and lock plate puller to do the job. You should also buy a 1-1.25" 5/16 stud to thread into the upper column shaft so that the column doesn't telescope while you're compressing the lock plate. I just used a bolt and cut the head off, and gave it a little extra torque with a vise grip to "lock" the telescoping feature.
Do the part stores generally have the lock plate puller in the kit with the steering wheel puller?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
I got mine from an oreilly - they have a comprehensive kit. I can get the P/N if you need it when you get home. It wasn't on the retail shelf, one of the things behind the counter that you can rent/buy.
The lock plate puller is going to be a u-shaped piece of metal with a hole in the middle.
That looks very similar if not identical to the kit I got from Kragen. The lock plate tool is upper right (use nut and one of the bolts with tapered ends on lower left)
Wheel puller is lower right, use in conjunction with appropriate bolts from selection at upper left.
The lock plate puller is going to be a u-shaped piece of metal with a hole in the middle.
That looks very similar if not identical to the kit I got from Kragen. The lock plate tool is upper right (use nut and one of the bolts with tapered ends on lower left)
Wheel puller is lower right, use in conjunction with appropriate bolts from selection at upper left.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
I got mine from an oreilly - they have a comprehensive kit. I can get the P/N if you need it when you get home. It wasn't on the retail shelf, one of the things behind the counter that you can rent/buy.
The lock plate puller is going to be a u-shaped piece of metal with a hole in the middle.
That looks very similar if not identical to the kit I got from Kragen. The lock plate tool is upper right (use nut and one of the bolts with tapered ends on lower left)
Wheel puller is lower right, use in conjunction with appropriate bolts from selection at upper left.
The lock plate puller is going to be a u-shaped piece of metal with a hole in the middle.
That looks very similar if not identical to the kit I got from Kragen. The lock plate tool is upper right (use nut and one of the bolts with tapered ends on lower left)
Wheel puller is lower right, use in conjunction with appropriate bolts from selection at upper left.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Did the fix following Willcox and Jim Shea's write ups. This was likely the easiest fix I have done to my '81. The trick to hold the telescoping sections together was essential. I can now stop the engine whenever I want from the driver's seat. What a luxury.
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