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My Tranny has a leak that seems to be coming from the drivers side and looks to maybe be the shifter shaft. Can that be done on the car? And I read somewhere that it takes a special tool to remove?? Is there a dye to put in that can find a leak and pinpoint it? I will pull it out if I have to, just don't want to. How many seals can be changed with it in the car? Thanks.
The tranny does not have to come out. Buy a new shifter shaft seal at NAPA, etc., then follow this procedure.
Remove the hardware from the shaft (linkage, etc.); clean the shaft and the area around it from all dirt/grime, so you have a clean workspace; select a deep-well socket of size that will clear the shaft surface completely but of diameter that is just smaller than the seal O.D.; use socket to drive the "old" seal deeper into the housing bore; put wheel bearing grease or vasoline on the shaft (NOT on the seal bore); carefully slide the new seal over the shaft being careful not to cut the seal on the edges of the milled flats; use socket to drive the new seal in to depth just below the outer chamfer of the bore.
As long as the seal lip on the new seal is fully onto the shaft journal (past the start of the milled flats), it will seal just fine. The colored stuff on the O.D. of the seal casing [looks like paint] is the sealant for the O.D. If you wish to put a light wipe of Permatex #2 sealant on the bore surface, before you install the seal, it won't hurt anything...as long as you don't get it on the shaft.
This is a very common repair and that bore is deep enough to accept two seals. Others will want you to remove the old seal--but that's totally unnecessary.
The tranny does not have to come out. Buy a new shifter shaft seal at NAPA, etc., then follow this procedure.
Remove the hardware from the shaft (linkage, etc.); clean the shaft and the area around it from all dirt/grime, so you have a clean workspace; select a deep-well socket of size that will clear the shaft surface completely but of diameter that is just smaller than the seal O.D.; use socket to drive the "old" seal deeper into the housing bore; put wheel bearing grease or vasoline on the shaft (NOT on the seal bore); carefully slide the new seal over the shaft being careful not to cut the seal on the edges of the milled flats; use socket to drive the new seal in to depth just below the outer chamfer of the bore.
As long as the seal lip on the new seal is fully onto the shaft journal (past the start of the milled flats), it will seal just fine. The colored stuff on the O.D. of the seal casing [looks like paint] is the sealant for the O.D. If you wish to put a light wipe of Permatex #2 sealant on the bore surface, before you install the seal, it won't hurt anything...as long as you don't get it on the shaft.
This is a very common repair and that bore is deep enough to accept two seals. Others will want you to remove the old seal--but that's totally unnecessary.
Now that you said that, I remember reading that before. I found a seal at NAPA. I will do it the way you mentioned though, it sounds easier and as long as it seals I am good, Thanks!!
I've also wrapped a piece of paper around the shaft to kind of protect the seal from the edges of the flats. Maybe not really needed, but with the paper around the shaft the seal won't get nicked by a sharp edge.
I've also wrapped a piece of paper around the shaft to kind of protect the seal from the edges of the flats. Maybe not really needed, but with the paper around the shaft the seal won't get nicked by a sharp edge.
Awesome! Any tip that will keep it from peeing on my drip pan and my driveway I will take!! Then its on to replacing the rear main seal in the motor. Then MAYBE it will stop acting like an old school Harley and stop marking its territory! Thanks!