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Well I'm one of the many that want to do an auto to manual swap... I have a 1974 L48/TH400 and hoping to put a T10 or M20 in it, don't really care which but it looks like T10s are cheaper and more plentiful in NC.
I've seen a few T10's in local listings but none advertise specifically as out of a Corvette and I'd like to know if there are any details I need to look for when hunting for a tranny. I heard I could reuse my TH400 driveshaft and slip yoke so that means it needs to have 32 spline output shaft right? What about input? # of grooves in input? Any other Corvette specific requirements?
This probably isn't much help but I had to get a smaller slip yoke to do my swap (M20). I bought the trans from eBay and put a rebuild kit and a new 1-2 slider in it...about $800 for the completed trans. I can send you a complete parts list and a job narrative if you think it will help...PM me with your email if you're interested...
The 74 Vette and all Vettes after 1970 had a 26 spline input shaft and any late mode T-10 with a 32 spline output shaft should have a 26 spline input shaft. Just be forewarned there were many useages of the T-10 in the late 70's and there are some out there with really wide spread ratios most fall into the normal range and you can decode the ratio of the transmission by the number of notches on the input shaft, be wary of ones with 4/5 notches, some of these were used in 305 Monzas and low powered cars and you could end up with a 3.26 first gear with gigantic ratio spreads between gears.
I also have a 1974 L48 coupe, and I bought it from Solid LT1 just above. My car has a four speed, but depending on the diff ratio, you might find it revving a bit too fast at highway speeds, as I do. Obviously, the TH400 and any factory 4 speed still has a 1.00:1 top gear ratio, so ask yourself if you would still like a 1.00:1 top gear ratio.
If not, then you might as well fit a 5 speed with an overdrive top gear. This will bring the revs down to the 2,000-2,500 at 60 mph instead of 3,000-3,5000 rpm that you now have.
You will be doing a lot of hard work fitting either manual transmission, so you might as well fit the trans that will give you greater driving pleasure.
Seek advice from here and other places if you wish, but please consider a 5 speed before you commit yourself.
So many have done the swap from 4 to 5 speeds that you should be able to get you a 4sp from a member at a good price and you know it is the right one. I'm giving mine away but it is already spoken for.
Look for one with a nodular iron case with 2.87:1 first gear.
I have one, but not quite ready to let go of it yet...not 'till I snag the 5 or 6 speed that's replacing it.
I have a 4spd that is coming out in a few weeks. Don't know your time line but this is a good transmission and I want to sell it. Drive shaft can go with it if you can use it. PM me if you are interested.
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You will be doing a lot of hard work fitting either manual transmission, so you might as well fit the trans that will give you greater driving pleasure.
Not to be petulant John, but how does a few hundred rpm's equal 'greater driving pleasure?'
Anyway, stingraydriver74 is looking for the least expensive trans swap. 5 and 6 speed trans/shifter are far from cheap.
I agree with John. If you are going to do it, a 5 or 6 speed is much better pleasure to drive than a 4 speed. Now if $ is really tight and you don't do much highway driving then 4 speed is okay. If you do a lot of highway driving, gas savings will offset the cost of an OD tranny eventually. my 2c.
Not to be petulant John, but how does a few hundred rpm's equal 'greater driving pleasure?'
Anyway, stingraydriver74 is looking for the least expensive trans swap. 5 and 6 speed trans/shifter are far from cheap.
1000 RPM is a bit more than a few hundred in my book-
If you have a rear gear that is 3.55 or numerically larger and do ANY sort of highway driving, the 3 grand or higher revs at 60 MPH and above will quickly make up your mind whether you ever want to drive the car on the highway again.
I have a 3.70 gear and trying to stay up with the flow of traffic at 75 MPH for hours on end is just stupid.
Yes, the OD will GREATLY improve 'driving pleasure' in these situations.
Elm
1000 RPM is a bit more than a few hundred in my book-
If you have a rear gear that is 3.55 or numerically larger and do ANY sort of highway driving, the 3 grand or higher revs at 60 MPH and above will quickly make up your mind whether you ever want to drive the car on the highway again.
I have a 3.70 gear and trying to stay up with the flow of traffic at 75 MPH for hours on end is just stupid.
Yes, the OD will GREATLY improve 'driving pleasure' in these situations.
Elm
3:70 here also, put in a 5 speed....WHAT A JOY.
Brad as long as you are going to be in there anyway, a few simple mods will fit a nice World Class T5 up there for not a lot of $$$$ and it will work just fine.
1000 RPM is a bit more than a few hundred in my book-
If you have a rear gear that is 3.55 or numerically larger and do ANY sort of highway driving, the 3 grand or higher revs at 60 MPH and above will quickly make up your mind whether you ever want to drive the car on the highway again.
I have a 3.70 gear and trying to stay up with the flow of traffic at 75 MPH for hours on end is just stupid.
Yes, the OD will GREATLY improve 'driving pleasure' in these situations.
Elm
That was my reason too. The wife and I like to drive and this 427 4spd is just not the car to do it in, especially with the Hooker side pipes and the heat of 300-3500 rpms. I've got a Tremec 5spd coming with .64 od. That will greatly increase the pleasure of driving. I do agree if you are never or seldom leaving town the 4spd is ok.
Guys thank y'all very much for the input, I know the trans swap thread is a horse that's been beat to death twice and I've spent hours reading through posts, articles, etc.
I think the 5sp would be great but the way I priced everything I could do a 4sp AND an engine replacement for the same price. I'm neither looking for a super efficient cruiser nor a driveshaft snapping monster, just a really fun old car to drive which I think the 4sp can deliver. I only have 3.08 in the back so 1:1 final isn't outrageous.
A few tech questions for those who have done the swap if I may:
1. What type/where can I find the mount I need that would sit atop the bolt in crossmember for a 4 speed?
2. If I get the Hurst Comp+ shifter and installation kit for my year Corvette, will the shifter come up in the stock location of the console?
1. What type/where can I find the mount I need that would sit atop the bolt in crossmember for a 4 speed?
2. If I get the Hurst Comp+ shifter and installation kit for my year Corvette, will the shifter come up in the stock location of the console?
Thanks again!
Brad
Sometimes the stock shifter and mounting brackets are offered here but I would highly recommend the Hurst shifter. The Hurst bolts directly to the transmission - no brackets needed.
I converted my 78 to a 4 speed and installed the Hurst because I installed a Hurst on my 76 and loved it! No comparison to the stock shifter.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by stingraydriver74
Guys thank y'all very much for the input, I know the trans swap thread is a horse that's been beat to death twice and I've spent hours reading through posts, articles, etc.
A few tech questions for those who have done the swap if I may:
1. What type/where can I find the mount I need that would sit atop the bolt in crossmember for a 4 speed?
2. If I get the Hurst Comp+ shifter and installation kit for my year Corvette, will the shifter come up in the stock location of the console?
Thanks again!
Brad
The original shifter to an 80-81 had a bracket with the shifter that mounts on the factory Xmember. Your auto Xmember is drilled for it. By checking ebay, I've seen a few in the past several months. The bracket alone sells for ~$40-50 when they become available.
Do you have the factory original shifter and plan to use it ?
Mikejpss: I don't have any shifter pieces yet and it looks like I'd pay as much for a stock setup as I would for the Hurst and I've been told the Hurst will feel better and mount just as easy/easier so I think I'll go with that, thanks for the suggestions.
I'm still unsure about how to put a 4 speed tranny mount on the auto crossmember.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by stingraydriver74
Mikejpss: I don't have any shifter pieces yet and it looks like I'd pay as much for a stock setup as I would for the Hurst and I've been told the Hurst will feel better and mount just as easy/easier so I think I'll go with that, thanks for the suggestions.
I'm still unsure about how to put a 4 speed tranny mount on the auto crossmember.
Thanks everyone,
Brad
I am told the 4 speed trans will mount to the auto X member using the same rubber mount. Give me a few weeks and I will report back, looks like I will be doing my 4 speed swap around the week of March 12th.
Good to know about the Hurst shifter , and that it will mount in the existing hole, and function the same way as the original .
Be sure to check your trans tail shaft section to insure the Hurst shifter mounting holes / threads are in good shape.
It appears that a Hurst setup is a bit more $$, but am sure it is well worth the price. I have 2 sets of original shifters and both are kind of sloppy.
I am told the 4 speed trans will mount to the auto X member using the same rubber mount. Give me a few weeks and I will report back, looks like I will be doing my 4 speed swap around the week of March 12th.
Good to know about the Hurst shifter , and that it will mount in the existing hole, and function the same way as the original .
Be sure to check your trans tail shaft section to insure the Hurst shifter mounting holes / threads are in good shape.
It appears that a Hurst setup is a bit more $$, but am sure it is well worth the price. I have 2 sets of original shifters and both are kind of sloppy.
Yep I will hopefully be doing the swap in the next month or so, hopefully someone can chime in on the mount issue and help us both. I want to keep the driveway engineering to a minimum when the car is apart
You're right on the shifters, a brand new hurst setup will run $350 and some used options cheaper on ebay but the hursts should be much tighter and solid mounting.
Keep us updated on your progress! I'll do the same.