T Top adjustment?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 305
From: Feeding Hills, MA
T Top adjustment?
I have a recently purchased '77, drives good for a 35 year old car. The one annoying noise I can't get rid of is the drivers side T Top rattles when you go over any bumps. I tried adjusting the locking lever posts and also added some foam to the weatherstripping for a tighter fit but can't cure the rattle. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Ok just guessing but here it goes
The mounting points for the top are the 2 taps that go into the center bar and the two latches (77 was the last of the two latches)
The 2 taps can be / are shimmed to locate them, if there are no shims the tabs would pull down tighter on the weather strip, if there are too many shims it would be loose and could move up and down in the pocket and rattle
With the roof latched, can you push up on the edge near the middle? if so there is either not enough weather strip (worn, etc) or too many shims.
The other thing could be bent tab (bent down) or missing / worn plastic liner in the socket
On the outside, the latches can be adjusted by loosening the jam-nut and threading the post out slightly, there is a suggested force in the AIM but they should be pretty snug-tight without risk of breaking anything.
If the mounting post (triangle) at the back was loose where it threaded into the plate, or the plate itself, it would allow it to bump up and down while the latches feel tight.
If the plastic liner in the front where the pin goes in is loose/worn, the pin could bump around even with tight latches.
Those are the places I'd look at. Remove the one or two screws and remove the inner panel (I think there's a screw or two and then the plastic Velcro stuff) and you'll be able to see if the tabs or anything is loose better
Mooser
The mounting points for the top are the 2 taps that go into the center bar and the two latches (77 was the last of the two latches)
The 2 taps can be / are shimmed to locate them, if there are no shims the tabs would pull down tighter on the weather strip, if there are too many shims it would be loose and could move up and down in the pocket and rattle
With the roof latched, can you push up on the edge near the middle? if so there is either not enough weather strip (worn, etc) or too many shims.
The other thing could be bent tab (bent down) or missing / worn plastic liner in the socket
On the outside, the latches can be adjusted by loosening the jam-nut and threading the post out slightly, there is a suggested force in the AIM but they should be pretty snug-tight without risk of breaking anything.
If the mounting post (triangle) at the back was loose where it threaded into the plate, or the plate itself, it would allow it to bump up and down while the latches feel tight.
If the plastic liner in the front where the pin goes in is loose/worn, the pin could bump around even with tight latches.
Those are the places I'd look at. Remove the one or two screws and remove the inner panel (I think there's a screw or two and then the plastic Velcro stuff) and you'll be able to see if the tabs or anything is loose better
Mooser
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 305
From: Feeding Hills, MA
Ok just guessing but here it goes
The mounting points for the top are the 2 taps that go into the center bar and the two latches (77 was the last of the two latches)
The 2 taps can be / are shimmed to locate them, if there are no shims the tabs would pull down tighter on the weather strip, if there are too many shims it would be loose and could move up and down in the pocket and rattle
With the roof latched, can you push up on the edge near the middle? if so there is either not enough weather strip (worn, etc) or too many shims.
The other thing could be bent tab (bent down) or missing / worn plastic liner in the socket
On the outside, the latches can be adjusted by loosening the jam-nut and threading the post out slightly, there is a suggested force in the AIM but they should be pretty snug-tight without risk of breaking anything.
If the mounting post (triangle) at the back was loose where it threaded into the plate, or the plate itself, it would allow it to bump up and down while the latches feel tight.
If the plastic liner in the front where the pin goes in is loose/worn, the pin could bump around even with tight latches.
Those are the places I'd look at. Remove the one or two screws and remove the inner panel (I think there's a screw or two and then the plastic Velcro stuff) and you'll be able to see if the tabs or anything is loose better
Mooser
The mounting points for the top are the 2 taps that go into the center bar and the two latches (77 was the last of the two latches)
The 2 taps can be / are shimmed to locate them, if there are no shims the tabs would pull down tighter on the weather strip, if there are too many shims it would be loose and could move up and down in the pocket and rattle
With the roof latched, can you push up on the edge near the middle? if so there is either not enough weather strip (worn, etc) or too many shims.
The other thing could be bent tab (bent down) or missing / worn plastic liner in the socket
On the outside, the latches can be adjusted by loosening the jam-nut and threading the post out slightly, there is a suggested force in the AIM but they should be pretty snug-tight without risk of breaking anything.
If the mounting post (triangle) at the back was loose where it threaded into the plate, or the plate itself, it would allow it to bump up and down while the latches feel tight.
If the plastic liner in the front where the pin goes in is loose/worn, the pin could bump around even with tight latches.
Those are the places I'd look at. Remove the one or two screws and remove the inner panel (I think there's a screw or two and then the plastic Velcro stuff) and you'll be able to see if the tabs or anything is loose better
Mooser
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
good job Mosser.. 
This may help you some too!
Corvette T-Top Weatherstrip Install and Adjustment Instructions 1968-1977E
This may help you some too!
Corvette T-Top Weatherstrip Install and Adjustment Instructions 1968-1977E
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,390
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi s17,
All the connections for the top panels to the body have some kind of nylon or rubber bushing to stop rattling.
The four latches should each have a black rubber button in the end of the adjustable 'pin'.
The four receivers in the center bar should each have a white nylon bushing in them.
The receivers in the outer rear corners of the panels for the triangular wedges should each have a white nylon bushing in them.
The two receivers in the corners of the windshield header should have white nylon bushings that mooser mentioned.
If any are missing there is metal to metal contact which may cause a rattle.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
All the connections for the top panels to the body have some kind of nylon or rubber bushing to stop rattling.
The four latches should each have a black rubber button in the end of the adjustable 'pin'.
The four receivers in the center bar should each have a white nylon bushing in them.
The receivers in the outer rear corners of the panels for the triangular wedges should each have a white nylon bushing in them.
The two receivers in the corners of the windshield header should have white nylon bushings that mooser mentioned.
If any are missing there is metal to metal contact which may cause a rattle.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
