Brake Lines
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Brake Lines
Hi,
I was working on finishing up the rear suspension, and the dang brake lines are the last hold up.
So I was removing the drivers side the from the dist block, the PO had rounded it, and I had to the the ole vice grips out. So I get the line out, and it appears that the damn line was smooth, after some well applied cussing I tried to thread the new line in. NO Dice, after 5 more min of cussing, contemplating burning the car down, cussing some more, contemplating kicking the dog etc...
So I guess I need to replace the brake lines, does anyone know where the front to rear line meets up? is it easy enough to just buy a straight piece at the parts store, or should I get the pre-bents?
I dont think ill be able to get the other parts off the dist block due to the tight spaces so was thinking if not too difficult (ya right) ill just do the whole damn line
any suggestions? Think I can re-tap the block? (I don't but will try anything anyone know the size? )
Thanks for listening to the rant
Ed
Oh and I wasn't ever really going to kick the dog.
I was working on finishing up the rear suspension, and the dang brake lines are the last hold up.
So I was removing the drivers side the from the dist block, the PO had rounded it, and I had to the the ole vice grips out. So I get the line out, and it appears that the damn line was smooth, after some well applied cussing I tried to thread the new line in. NO Dice, after 5 more min of cussing, contemplating burning the car down, cussing some more, contemplating kicking the dog etc...
So I guess I need to replace the brake lines, does anyone know where the front to rear line meets up? is it easy enough to just buy a straight piece at the parts store, or should I get the pre-bents?
I dont think ill be able to get the other parts off the dist block due to the tight spaces so was thinking if not too difficult (ya right) ill just do the whole damn line
any suggestions? Think I can re-tap the block? (I don't but will try anything anyone know the size? )
Thanks for listening to the rant
Ed
Oh and I wasn't ever really going to kick the dog.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
Brake lines --------dislike very strongly. You may as well replace them all. Same yourself some frustration. My theory is they are all the same age, may as well do them all. Is it the purportioning valve that lost the threads? Never threaded one. Not sur if helicoil would work. Might be better to pick one up. I'd switch them all over to stainless and be done with them for a long time.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Brake lines --------dislike very strongly. You may as well replace them all. Same yourself some frustration. My theory is they are all the same age, may as well do them all. Is it the purportioning valve that lost the threads? Never threaded one. Not sur if helicoil would work. Might be better to pick one up. I'd switch them all over to stainless and be done with them for a long time.
I'm gathering that the dist. block to which you refer is the one just in front of the diff., in which case all you need is this block if the thread in it is gone. You say you have a new left rear brake line so the place from which you bought it should have the dist. block you need too. It's not easy to get at but not impossible. If the right rear line is OK, keep it, if not then get a new one made.Stainless is not needed, you'll be old and grey before a new mild steel brake line wears out. The current ones have lasted almost 40 years and haven't rusted through, have they? The main dist. block up near the steering box is easy to get at if the car is on a hoist and if it's not leaking, then I suggest you leave it alone.
Good luck.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Thanks for the advise guys, I think since I'm into it I'm gonna do alot more than I expected.
First I'm going to use parts store and ben up a new front to rear line, and redo the entire rear brake line setup. starting at the front dist block/prop valve.
Since the fronts are already done going to leve them alone for now, and then worry with them when I replace the master cylinder like in beejays thread..
I'll prolly still cuss, but the dog is safe, lol...thanks guys, and anyone see any issues with my thought process?
The fronts are
First I'm going to use parts store and ben up a new front to rear line, and redo the entire rear brake line setup. starting at the front dist block/prop valve.
Since the fronts are already done going to leve them alone for now, and then worry with them when I replace the master cylinder like in beejays thread..
I'll prolly still cuss, but the dog is safe, lol...thanks guys, and anyone see any issues with my thought process?
The fronts are
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
Good move if one went bad and they are all the same age there is no reason to believe the rest couldn't be in some degree of damage.
I like to upgrade stuff myself. One of those while you're at it things I guess. The OEM valve seems to work well enough, the adjustable gives you more latitude with regard to the way the front and rear apply. Is it something you want to work with meaning laying down some test patterns to see where they are locking or not. If the brakes themselves are OEM I might trust the engineered valve over my skill level in adjustment.
I like to upgrade stuff myself. One of those while you're at it things I guess. The OEM valve seems to work well enough, the adjustable gives you more latitude with regard to the way the front and rear apply. Is it something you want to work with meaning laying down some test patterns to see where they are locking or not. If the brakes themselves are OEM I might trust the engineered valve over my skill level in adjustment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 69
From: Regina Sk Canada
Its only Money. I made this easy for myself, once i got the frame back from the sandblaster, i ran all new pre-bent brake lines on the frame, with all new steel brained lines to the calipers. New factory master and new factory calipers. I used the factory proportioning valve as well,it was designed to work with this car, so why change it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Well I don't necessarily disagree with the factory stiff works why change, and I think it's a good point that an engineer prolly built that for a reason....and I ain't no engineer, I was hoping someone the had done the swap may be able to chime in and offer some thoughts from the perspective of having done it already
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
I'm doing it now to my 78 that I'm going to sell this spring. The 75 is already done.
This past Sept. while outside Cleveland I was driving my shop truck towing a trailer of engine blocks. The shop truck is the last to get things done other than oil changes. I hit the brakes and the front right line blew. I felt the peddle drop so I hit it a couple times hard and the lind behind the fuel tank to the rear blew.
Ended up 200 from home with a truck, trailer and zero brakes. Not a good feeling.Called a friend with a roll back. He brought his truck for the trailer and the rollback for my truck. 4.5 hrs each way.
So now when I replace a rusted line I do them all. Including the rubber lines to the calipers. On the vettes I used stainless braided lines to the calipers.
Like Grumpy427 said, It's only money and well worth the peace of mind.
The rough one will be the one from the front to the rear. I'm replacing the body mounts at the same time so it should make it a little easier. If it would make it easier, you might want to make the front to rear in two pieces. If so I wouldn't use stainless. The double flair in stainless would be more difficult at the union.
This past Sept. while outside Cleveland I was driving my shop truck towing a trailer of engine blocks. The shop truck is the last to get things done other than oil changes. I hit the brakes and the front right line blew. I felt the peddle drop so I hit it a couple times hard and the lind behind the fuel tank to the rear blew.
Ended up 200 from home with a truck, trailer and zero brakes. Not a good feeling.Called a friend with a roll back. He brought his truck for the trailer and the rollback for my truck. 4.5 hrs each way.
So now when I replace a rusted line I do them all. Including the rubber lines to the calipers. On the vettes I used stainless braided lines to the calipers.
Like Grumpy427 said, It's only money and well worth the peace of mind.
The rough one will be the one from the front to the rear. I'm replacing the body mounts at the same time so it should make it a little easier. If it would make it easier, you might want to make the front to rear in two pieces. If so I wouldn't use stainless. The double flair in stainless would be more difficult at the union.
