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Help with Differential Teardown

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Default Help with Differential Teardown

I have gotten everything free from my 1976.

The only issue I am having is the differential pinion bolt (under the drive shaft), which just spins when I try to release it. There is not enough room over hear to insert a wrench.

Any ideas? Anyone ever run into this issue?

Didn't see it covered in any other threads, any help would be much appreciated.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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I had the same problem, what I did was wedged something/ applied enough down pressure on the bracket that would allow the bolt to stay stationary. I did however have the rear end out previously though, so the bolt wasn't extremely weathered/rusted. So you might have to cut the bolt off.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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You don't happen to know the size of the top of the bolt?

Was considering chopping down a cheap wrench and using it to catch the side of the bracket. Such a pita.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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/what did you use to apply downward force? My entire carriage is being semi supported by the bracket, i don't know if a pry bar would ahve much effect.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:43 PM
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You should be able to go in through the frame where the drive shaft goes and drop a socket down from the top (6" extension)
Mooser
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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The bolt head size on mine was 5/8". My nut did move somewhat is the reason I could jam a chisel between the frame bracket and differential bracket.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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If you have reached "desperate time", remove the driveshaft to access the top of the bolt.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Thank you all.

I have reached desperate times but have opted to cut a hole through the floor over the crossmember mount bolts instead of removing the drive shaft.

My reasoning behind this is that I will be replacing the diff cover, and most likely the crossmember bolts are going to be rusted in. I feel that I will be able to drill the mount bolts until I can pop off the crossmember. Also, I don't want to open a can of worms by extending the removal to another significant part of the car.

Seeing as the cover itself i already in pretty rough shape, I think that either way I will need a view from the top, doubtful I can get a socket will fit.

I would be so much easier if I could remove the cover and crossmember in one piece but I don't see enough clearance for the top two cover bolts.

Last edited by vancouver_riots; Feb 27, 2012 at 06:20 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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I opened up a panel in the trunk.

Surprisingly the bolts were still in decent shape but there was about 3 cups (not joking) of rust that i had to clean out before they were accessible.

Going to soak overnight and try my luck tomorrow evening.

Will update on the results and hopefully some pics of the brand new suspension and cover being on the vehicle.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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3/4 bolts out. Two, on one side, were easy-ish with lots of PB and a propane torch. The third and fourth one seemed to be mucked up. I stripped the rear bolt on the dirver's side and bought a "grip-tight" socket, which removed it fine.

I am stuck on this last fourth bolt closest to the diff on the driver's side. Gonna zap it with the torch once I can get the feeling back in my hands...its snowing out and I need the garage open.
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