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Keisler perfect shift 3 install

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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Default Keisler perfect shift 3 install

Hi All,
Im finally getting around to installing the updated perfect shift 3 kit to replace the roll pin design in my TKO 500 from Keisler. Other than removing the tranny, are there any other special instructions for installing this kit? When the roll pin is removed, i assume by knocking it out, does the tranny need to be in gear or N. Are the bolts that hold the kit tourqued or just tightened firm.

Thanks
Ron
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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These sound like perfect questions to ask Keisler?
Did they not provide documentation on how to install?
Elm
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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put the tranny in "N"

Mine were done with Allens. I have quality 3/8th drive allen head sockets and the gorillas at keisler put locktight or 100 foot pounds of TQ on them and it actually stripped two of the allen heads out. I was pissed at kiesler. Kiesler had a bunch of morons working for them. My kit had numerous problems that a child could see that they were wrong parts or bad.

The block to Z-bar ball stud had bad threads from the factory

The drive line u-joint caps were bigger than the u-joints

The short pivot ball for the clutch arm was so short that It did not disengage the clutch when i first fired up my car. It required pulling the tranny and buying the correct GM longer length pivot ball

The monkey that installed the shifter was a moron. I had to cart the whole tranny down to a shop to drill out and retap the base because of stripped out allen heads



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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Well, sorry you had problems on your install. The pic you show of the Inland Impire slip yoke shows the cap being wrong.

Once you got up to 35 or 40lbft of torque on the 5/16inch bolt you should have stopped and considered there was something going on before you broke them off. They probably has locktite blue on them. These are not cheap parts, or morons working on them. These are well crafted precision machined parts, with high quality gr5 and gr8 bolts.

The clutch linkage parts are pass thru from Volunteer Corvette, as is the pivot stud. This company is well known for their quality parts, but perhaps the thread was damaged in shipping.

I will let these vendors know your comments, as well as my shipping staff.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Keisler Automotive
Well, sorry you had problems on your install. The pic you show of the Inland Impire slip yoke shows the cap being wrong.

Once you got up to 35 or 40lbft of torque on the 5/16inch bolt you should have stopped and considered there was something going on before you broke them off. They probably has locktite blue on them. These are not cheap parts, or morons working on them. These are well crafted precision machined parts, with high quality gr5 and gr8 bolts.

The clutch linkage parts are pass thru from Volunteer Corvette, as is the pivot stud. This company is well known for their quality parts, but perhaps the thread was damaged in shipping.

I will let these vendors know your comments, as well as my shipping staff.
I had one of your first kits. I had the block saver plate, thinner billet steel 22# flywheel, and blow proof bell housing which requires a longer GM pivot ball. I just bought the correct one from the local dealer

The ball stud was a manufacturing blem. I pulled one off of a junk motor

The U-joint cap was for something like a 1350 and the kit was a smaller 1330 with your drive line. I called your guys and e-mailed this picture and they sent out two correct caps.

You guys sent out the improved shifter after my install was complete, I had to pull the tranny a few months later and that is when I had to fight the shifter block allens.

I think that my TKO 600 went in about 2006 and it has performed flawlessly I was only pissed for a short time

The kit came with a Sachs clutch and pressure plate. I never used it because I could not find any info about it. I was running a 7500 rpm 427 at the time and I did not want to take any chances. Do you know the Rating of this Sachs clutch?

Last edited by gkull; Feb 29, 2012 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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Loctite blue should break before the bolt. Is there a chance it had loctite red installed accidentally?

Could it have been a case of no threadlocker at all and steel bolt seizing in an aluminum thread?

Any thoughts from the shop as to what the cause of seizing was?
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Loctite blue should break before the bolt. Is there a chance it had loctite red installed accidentally?

Could it have been a case of no threadlocker at all and steel bolt seizing in an aluminum thread?

Any thoughts from the shop as to what the cause of seizing was?
The two of 6-8 bolts did not break. what ever thread locker was used held it so tight that I stripped the allen shape. I considered a torch which is a common method of freeing stuff. I tried several things including drill and easy out. but I have snapped off a smaller easy out off in a bolt before and then you are really screwed. So I used a number drill bit on a milling machine to take the core of the bolt out and then ran a tap down to clear the thread part of the allen bolts out.

I think that somebody assembled it with an air tool and thread locker.

Did i ever tell you that i hate working on cars?

Last edited by gkull; Mar 1, 2012 at 01:01 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Did i ever tell you that i hate working on cars?


There's ALWAYS something.
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